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Rattling Window


ukrkoz
07-01-2008, 09:37 PM
ok, last thing i need to know on my son's 95 eclipse.
driver side window rattles mercylessly every time we shut the door. it's like something's totally loose on window guides, or something.
we are planning on long weekend repairs - swap oil pan, bumper, headlights, might as well take care of this too. window moves back and for a lot. anyone had same problem and knows the cure? or they are just made that way, as both windows do same?

4g63gst20
07-01-2008, 09:40 PM
for me is only the driver side, and i have heard that is a common problem. i just roll down my window before closing the door when i'm siting in the driver seat.

ukrkoz
07-02-2008, 10:30 AM
i think i know why it rattles, though. if they share same body with a spider model, they went cheap on non-convertibles, and did not install window guides/frame on the upper half of the doors. thus, window is not retained by anything when it is being raised up and wobbles in the guides. i'll look into securing guides inside the door somehow, we have to remove panels anyways, as speakers are ripped. we had none of this issue on 94 body.

david-b
07-02-2008, 11:23 AM
There's a write up somewhere about how to stop it. There's a little plastic clip that when you take off the inside of the door, it's easily accessible and I believe all you do is squeeze it to tighten it. I'm looking for it right now. It's not hard though I remember that. Still have to do mine.

david-b
07-02-2008, 11:25 AM
And here it is
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/57412-fix-2g-window-rattle.html

ukrkoz
07-02-2008, 11:42 AM
you are a good man! i owe you one!
i like the a/b foam idea either. we call it a/b foam in the trade as it comes in 2 seperate cans. polyurethane foam, foam and activator, hence 2 parts. i have silverado that rattles anywhere possible, as it's cheap plastic everywhere, and of course i have sub and run music fairly loud.. but i love the car because of my size and its size. will get that foam and coat panels in both eclipse and silvie.
once again, much thanks, bro! or sis:iceslolan

david-b
07-02-2008, 11:49 AM
you are a good man! i owe you one!
i like the a/b foam idea either. we call it a/b foam in the trade as it comes in 2 seperate cans. polyurethane foam, foam and activator, hence 2 parts. i have silverado that rattles anywhere possible, as it's cheap plastic everywhere, and of course i have sub and run music fairly loud.. but i love the car because of my size and its size. will get that foam and coat panels in both eclipse and silvie.
once again, much thanks, bro! or sis:iceslolan

You can repay me in beer and pretzels. :cheers:
I'm thinking of doing my hatch with the foam. Never got around to it yet. May stop some leaking too.
And david-b is definitely a bro

ukrkoz
07-02-2008, 11:55 AM
apologiese, but alcohol and us don't cross the ways. but i wish you all the best and i mean it, so you'll have your aura improved as of now.

if you have squeek in the hatch, like we did, it was the stop light. somehow, the plastic lense was doing loud squeeking noise. i just sprayed some clear lubricant on the edges and it is gone for well now.

JScharF
07-02-2008, 12:02 PM
I wish my dad was as helpful! All he ever says is "You're an idiot, you should have never bought that foreign peice of junk." "You need to go to school to do anything on that car.."

Ugh.

david-b
07-02-2008, 12:50 PM
apologiese, but alcohol and us don't cross the ways. but i wish you all the best and i mean it, so you'll have your aura improved as of now.

if you have squeek in the hatch, like we did, it was the stop light. somehow, the plastic lense was doing loud squeeking noise. i just sprayed some clear lubricant on the edges and it is gone for well now.

Ah well I work for Budweiser so I don't need any anyways. Pretzels are always a winner though.
I know it's the spoiler on mine. I installed the 97-98 Talon spoiler and I guess it's just the way it sits. Then the plastic, even though clipped in on every possible location, still rattles against the metal. All good though.

Glad I could help. And I agree, wish my Dad had done stuff like that.

ukrkoz
07-02-2008, 01:48 PM
I wish my dad was as helpful! All he ever says is "You're an idiot, you should have never bought that foreign peice of junk." "You need to go to school to do anything on that car.."

Ugh.

oh, be respectful! never forget - by the time of reckoning, you'll be accounted for yours and others for their's.

anyways, i have easy fix for your dad's jingo patriotism. just show him that little sticker on the driver side door opening, i think it's down on the floor/doorstep, where it says that it's "proudly made in the usa". kansas city i believe. i don't think a single eclipse was ever made outside the coutry, it was designed for and fabricated in, with a bunch of mitsu parts in it. via DSM - diamond star motors, which is mitsu/chrysler consortium.

david-b
07-02-2008, 02:49 PM
Mine (and a large majority of DSMs) was made in Normal Illinois. About 50 miles or so from here. Actually flew over the old plant in a DC3.

violent31601
07-03-2008, 03:26 PM
I just deal with it, the whole car alone sounds like its going to fall apart when driving (common problem within DSM's).

I just turn the music up louder, I guess that doesn't really help your problem though....

JScharF
07-03-2008, 10:02 PM
I do the same thing lol.

ukrkoz
07-05-2008, 11:47 PM
95 eclipse windows slide up and down on 2 metal guides, approximately 2mm thick. rattle in the window comes from the front guide. to get to the source of rattle, please, follow this link:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/57412-fix-2g-window-rattle.html
in this article, you are advised to "squeeze a PLASTIC clip". "brass looking things", or rusty in our case, are, actually, window brackets, sliding on the guides. they have U shaped part that encompasses the guide AND THE OPPOSITE END HOLDING THE WINDOW.
to provide smooth and no-lubricant operation, U shaped part of the bracket has delryn inserts inside, called "clips" in the article. delryn is a well known low friction and fairly durable plastic. it is, also, very brittle. please, do not squeeze the inserts/clips, or you are chancing snapping them in a half, like it happened on my car. fortunately, i only cracked it and it is still funtional. but if you break it completely, that winndow will go loose on the guide completely.
instead of squeezing the insert/clip, i took the whole bracket to the envil, sattled it on the narrow end, and hammered on the U-shaped part of the bracket, to bring METAL sides of it together. that brought delryn inserts together too, without damaging them.
you might, as well, squeeze METAL part of the bracket in a vise. i squeezed it to the point that delryn tips where snug against each other. even with that, plastic gives some, and allows bracket to slide back on the guide. if you over snugged the metal, you can spread it some with a flathead screwdriver.
helpful tip: when reinstalling the bracket, slide it on the window bolt 1st, letting it hang down loosely. reinstall the 10mm nut, tighten with fingers, then grasp the bracket and forth the U-shaped part of it, with delryn insert, onto the guide. the snugger it goes on the better it'll hold. then, tightene that nut with a wrench.
we just did both windows in our 95 eclipse. i had to remove the driver side bracket twice, as i did not get it snug enough from the get go.
i wouldn't call it 5 minute job, it's very awkward to get to the nut/bracket, but about 15 min it is.

also, while we had door panels off, we covered them anywhere we could with polyurathane foam, as advised in that article. and installed new 210W Fusion speakers. NO rattles of any kind now.

david-b
07-06-2008, 08:57 AM
Awesome. Good to hear it... or not hear it [rattle].

cantgo2fast
07-07-2008, 10:46 PM
Ya it sounds like my whole damn car is shaking itself to pieces when im on the highway

vzfox
08-16-2008, 11:14 PM
95 eclipse windows slide up and down on 2 metal guides, approximately 2mm thick. rattle in the window comes from the front guide. to get to the source of rattle, please, follow this link:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/57412-fix-2g-window-rattle.html
in this article, you are advised to "squeeze a PLASTIC clip". "brass looking things", or rusty in our case, are, actually, window brackets, sliding on the guides. they have U shaped part that encompasses the guide AND THE OPPOSITE END HOLDING THE WINDOW.
to provide smooth and no-lubricant operation, U shaped part of the bracket has delryn inserts inside, called "clips" in the article. delryn is a well known low friction and fairly durable plastic. it is, also, very brittle. please, do not squeeze the inserts/clips, or you are chancing snapping them in a half, like it happened on my car. fortunately, i only cracked it and it is still funtional. but if you break it completely, that winndow will go loose on the guide completely.
instead of squeezing the insert/clip, i took the whole bracket to the envil, sattled it on the narrow end, and hammered on the U-shaped part of the bracket, to bring METAL sides of it together. that brought delryn inserts together too, without damaging them.
you might, as well, squeeze METAL part of the bracket in a vise. i squeezed it to the point that delryn tips where snug against each other. even with that, plastic gives some, and allows bracket to slide back on the guide. if you over snugged the metal, you can spread it some with a flathead screwdriver.
helpful tip: when reinstalling the bracket, slide it on the window bolt 1st, letting it hang down loosely. reinstall the 10mm nut, tighten with fingers, then grasp the bracket and forth the U-shaped part of it, with delryn insert, onto the guide. the snugger it goes on the better it'll hold. then, tightene that nut with a wrench.
we just did both windows in our 95 eclipse. i had to remove the driver side bracket twice, as i did not get it snug enough from the get go.
i wouldn't call it 5 minute job, it's very awkward to get to the nut/bracket, but about 15 min it is.

also, while we had door panels off, we covered them anywhere we could with polyurathane foam, as advised in that article. and installed new 210W Fusion speakers. NO rattles of any kind now.


I followed the steps here and in the link provided. Squeezed together the U shaped bracked and put everything back together. Absolutely NO help at all. The window rattles around when you shut the door and while driving down the road. The window either has to be totally up or totally down to stop the rattle. It feels as if the drivers window is just really really loose. I looked at everything while the door panel was off and nothing seems to be missing or coming off any of the railings.

Is there suppose to be something in the back side of the door, near the door handle, that holds the window? That is where it seems to be loose and "rattlie".

ukrkoz
08-17-2008, 10:04 AM
regretfully, i can't agree better. with what we've done to our eclipse, we have fixed the pass side completely.
the driver side still rattles, just much less. before it was loud banging noise, now it's much more muffled. the only thing i can blame it on is either worn or bent felt window pad, one that runs along the upper door edge. there's sizeable gap between it and window itself.
honestly, i am almost positive there's not much you can do about it. think this way: this door, probabaly because it shares body with spider version, has no upper window guides/frame. so, window is suspended much so only at the 2 bottom points, while being very wide and sizeable piece of glass. mechanically speaking, it is very hard to keep something like this steady all the time. to me, it is another example of a flawed design or one that keeps repair shops/dealerships happy for yrs to come. planned obsolence, ya know.

ukrkoz
08-17-2008, 10:03 PM
I followed the steps here and in the link provided. Squeezed together the U shaped bracked and put everything back together. Absolutely NO help at all. The window rattles around when you shut the door and while driving down the road. The window either has to be totally up or totally down to stop the rattle. It feels as if the drivers window is just really really loose. I looked at everything while the door panel was off and nothing seems to be missing or coming off any of the railings.

Is there suppose to be something in the back side of the door, near the door handle, that holds the window? That is where it seems to be loose and "rattlie".


no fear, help is here!

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/305085-2g-driver-side-window-rattle.html#post151584151

ukrkoz
09-02-2008, 08:42 PM
ok, i have just done the repair discribed in my previous post.
of course, there's rtick to everything
1. i have no idea why i had to undo all the nuts mentioned, it adjusts just fine without doing so.
2. the hex screws to be adjusted work the opposite way - they tighten the support pads when turned counter-clockwise. what happens, the brackets start coming out of the nuts, against the window. nuts self-tighten while doing so, so i had to hold them with a tip of my finger. then i have figured that the easiest way to adjust it is to loosen nut a turn - turn hex screw a turn. it all locks by itself, but less messing with it, just loosen - turn, loosen - turn.
absolutely check how window slides up and down in the guides. it's very easy to overtighten, and possibly burn the motor later.
oh, and picture tells to adjust the hex screws in the front only but, actually, there's another set of those towards the rear of the door, it will rattle if not adjusted.

ukrkoz
09-03-2008, 12:43 PM
well, i guess, every brag ends in failure, at least - in my life.
i had to back up all adjustments done to stop that rattle. what it ended up with was a gap between the rearmost edge of the glass and pillar B weatherstrip.
pretty much, to get it back to tight condition, i had to let that window rattle again.
IMHO, it's dumm design and is not fixable after some point. the only way i can see it fixed realistically is to have the outside glass weather seal replaced with a new one, more elastic and pushing window inward.
total disappointment.
i had none of that trouble on our 94 model. this one appears to be designed with some perverted intention to put everything into wrong places and as hard to correct as possible. they must have some sadists in design team.

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