97 LaSabre Battery Drain...
ghink
06-21-2008, 09:28 AM
97 LaSabre Battery Drains almost dead in two weeks. New battery fully charged and tested.
When I put my test light between the negative post and negative cable the test light has a steady dim light and also pulses a tad brighter. Like as if the directional signal is on.
Any ideas?
When I put my test light between the negative post and negative cable the test light has a steady dim light and also pulses a tad brighter. Like as if the directional signal is on.
Any ideas?
HotZ28
06-21-2008, 07:37 PM
Do you know if the alternator is charging? You can test it with a DVOM at the battery. It should show 14.2 to 14.8-v soon after starting and trickle down to 12.8 to 13.2+v @ idle.
ghink
06-22-2008, 05:35 AM
The alternator is charging.
Do you know if the alternator is charging? You can test it with a DVOM at the battery. It should show 14.2 to 14.8-v soon after starting and trickle down to 12.8 to 13.2+v @ idle.
Do you know if the alternator is charging? You can test it with a DVOM at the battery. It should show 14.2 to 14.8-v soon after starting and trickle down to 12.8 to 13.2+v @ idle.
HotZ28
06-22-2008, 07:34 AM
Several items that come to mind that are notorious for causing battery drain are; ELC, power radio antenna (check to be sure it goes all the way down), glove box light, power door locks, blower control module, and of course the PCM/RAP/BCM. The following is considered to be normal drain items on these cars and the total should not be over 19.85 mA according to the FSM.
Adaptive Lamp monitor = 0.5 - 1.0 mA
HVAC Programmer = 0.5 - 0.75 mA
Gages Cluster = 4.0 - 6.0 mA
Oil level module = 0.1 mA
Radio = 7.0 - 8.5 mA
Amplifier = 1.8 - 3.5 mA
Total = 13.9 to 19.85 mA = 0.02 A max.
I put my test light between the negative post and negative cable the test light has a steady dim light and also pulses a tad brighter. If the light is lit, you are now ready to start pulling fuses/relays one at a time while watching for the light to go out. Also, you want to start with the main cockpit fuses first, but don't forget the other two fuse/relay panels.
After going through all the fuses one @ a time and the light remains lit, remove the battery cable to the alternator, then the starter. If the light is still on, disconnect the blower control module for the A/C fan. These are all “un-fused” feeds direct from the battery!
Adaptive Lamp monitor = 0.5 - 1.0 mA
HVAC Programmer = 0.5 - 0.75 mA
Gages Cluster = 4.0 - 6.0 mA
Oil level module = 0.1 mA
Radio = 7.0 - 8.5 mA
Amplifier = 1.8 - 3.5 mA
Total = 13.9 to 19.85 mA = 0.02 A max.
I put my test light between the negative post and negative cable the test light has a steady dim light and also pulses a tad brighter. If the light is lit, you are now ready to start pulling fuses/relays one at a time while watching for the light to go out. Also, you want to start with the main cockpit fuses first, but don't forget the other two fuse/relay panels.
After going through all the fuses one @ a time and the light remains lit, remove the battery cable to the alternator, then the starter. If the light is still on, disconnect the blower control module for the A/C fan. These are all “un-fused” feeds direct from the battery!
ghink
06-22-2008, 11:08 AM
Got lucky and disconnected my trunk CD changer and that was the culprit.
HotZ28, thanks BO for your help re this issue.
HotZ28, thanks BO for your help re this issue.
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