93 Honda Accord rotor removal

One of the guys a while back posted information on how to remove rotors by inserting two metric10mm x 1.25 x 5" fully threaded grade 8 bolts into the wheel and it will remove the rotors by tightening each bolt a little at a time.But the bolt has to be 5" long and I can't find where to buy them. I checked with dealers,wrote the guy who posted it,call around to different stores,looked online.Anyone know where I can buy them?Here is the post.
Click here: 1990-1997 accord front brake rotors - Automotive Forums .com Car Chat (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=897147)

It's not 5", it's 5 cm, 50 mm.

I did it couple weeks ago. It may not be a good approach. When you put the hub back, it's very difficult to keep the bearing inner race clean. Since the rust will fall all over it. The bearing will worn out very quick if the grease is contaminated, especially by rust.

Good luck.

Pro Man - 50mm is about 2 inches on the chart I am looking at.Is that about the length of the bolt you used? Also is it possible to clean the rust off before putting it back together?I am retired and I have a lot of time.

Yep, that's long enough. Make sure you put grease (not just oil) on the bolt end as well on the threads to lubricate it. Look into the gap between the rotor and the thin back plate to make sure the rotor is oriented so that the bolt end lands on a flat surface, not on a screw head in there. The orientation is about up right for the bolt.

For the rust, what happened was when I put the rotor with the hub back, I need to tap it into the bearing for the first .5" or so before I can use the spindle nut to push it into place. At that time, the rotor and the back plate have about 2" gap. As I tap on it, the rust fell all over it and got stick onto the grease on the inner race (the inner race came out with my hub). When it's in place and you don't need to tap anymore, the gap is way too small to clean it up or do anything. Give it a try, I don't have your time so I didn't really see if there is any better way to clean it. Let me know.

I used a little grease on the threads and the end of the bolt like you said. It is a little tricky to catch some hard surface with the bolt but you can tell when you have missed the hard surface when the bolt stops turning because it is all the way in so you have to try again.I did not have to tap it in. Thanks to your information about the rust problem instead of tapping it I just held on to the rotor at 9 and 3 oclock and wiggled it back and forth quickly which made it slide on the spline enough to get the nut started.I did notice on my inner race that it looked fine but that the small lip at the most forward part of the race towards the motor had about 4 tiny chips of the finish material that were in the grease so I removed them.The lip I am talking about seems to be about 1/8 " and it doesnt appear to be involved with the ball bearings and the race. I don't know if it chipped off because of something I did or 150,000 miles later it is just wear and tear. Time will tell. I am glad to have learned this because I have another accord that needs new rotors so I have just saved some $$$$$$.Thanks everyone