91 geo metro lsi 1.0L 5 speed. took it to a shop was told the distributor was bad paid 80 bucks not that...


this is what it is doing it starts and idles fine.. get it out on the road and it boggs down when you try to give it gas...

sitting and you hold it to the floor it boggs down can someone plz tell me what is causing this... is it a sensor or something to do with the carbrator intake air... thanks

Change your fuel filter, check your fuel pressure regulator. Throttle Position Sensor etc.

I would first check your fuel filter though. You would be surprised.

I second the fuel filter check first!

also need to check the timming could be off and causing the problem.

Absolutely, check your fuel delivery (pressure), check your ignition timing, and if your spark plug wires are old, replace them.

I was working an accord that had these precise symptoms, and it turned out it was bad spark plug wires.

-MechanicMatt

Try those others first but I had a very similar problem. I would be going down the highway or up a hill and it would start sputtering until I let off the gas. After it cooled down it was fine sometimes and other times I would have to let it cool for quite a while. After trying many things I was told to check out my catalytic converter. I removed the 2 bolts below the manifold and the 2 down at the middle of the car to remove it. When I would shake the converter I could hear what sounded like dirt or small rocks rolling around. I had 2 options: REPLACE or REMOVE the converter and replace with a straight pipe. I chose to remove it by cutting it off. I got a piece of pipe the same length that I was removing and had a friend weld it in it's place. NO MORE PROBLEMS and that was just a few weeks back. It's a bit louder and a bit faster too. Now dont forget to take that old catalytic converter to the scrap metal place as the platinum in them is quite valuable these days. Good luck...:lol:

This forum rules. Everyone's advice is spot on.

Don't be afraid to ask if you need further instruction about how to test the things mentioned here.

-MechanicMatt

thanks for all the help... i did in fact change fuel filter and change fuel regulator seems to running alot better but now.. i am still going to take the exhaust off from motor back to see if it will do better still sputters a bit.. i'll try other things mentioned as well but needs new exhaust on it anyway...



I also was reading in another place on here about the egr can some one show me where it is i know it is internal... thanks for all advise... really helped alot not a car repair gal just think i am... lol :rofl:

Is the "Check Engine" light on by chance? The EGR valve is located just to the right and slightly below where the throttle cable hooks up when looking at it from the front. It's a "round thingy" that has a vacuum line to it and 2 bolts hold it on from the side. The ports which run through the head are known to clog up on these cars also. To really check for clogged EGR ports, you need to follow my instructions..................

Remove the EGR valve and look inside. If it's full of carbon, you can bet it gets worse inside the head. Now you mentioned removing/replacing the exhaust. If you remove the manifold from the head after you drop the pipe, you will notice the driver's side of the manifold has a "bump" formed into it. This is where the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) gets it's flow from the exhaust. Right where that "bump" is, there is a passage that runs all the way through the head to where the EGR valve that you took off is. You will need to clean this passage out with a coat hanger, bottle brush, spring, or whatever elso you can get in there to clean it all the way through.
Here is a pic of the 'bump" in the manifold and where the port passes..........

http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i315/planetetf/egrport.gif

This is a known problem with these cars and needs to be addressed. This may or may not be your problem, but still needs to be looked at if you want to keep this car.

One more thing you need to do is get a compression test on all 3 cylinders. You must test the compression dry (normal) and then wet (with about an ounce of oil in the cylinder). This will tell all of us trying to help you the condition of the engine and we can then direct you on what to do next. You can pay someone to do it for you or buy a compression tester and do it yourself. When testing compression..............

Unhook the coil wire
Remove a spark plug
Insert the compression tester
Hold gas to the floor
Crank engine at least 3 mississippi's
Read the gauge
Repeat on all cylinders
Repeat "wet"

Post the results of the compression test here. Any lower that 150 PSI or a variation of 10-20 PSI between cylinders means you will need us to help you get this car running like new again.

not a car repair gal just think i am You can do it ;)