90 Accord No start

Alright don't know where to begin. Picked up the car for a friend and the car will not start. The fuel pump will not come on. Is there a fuel pump cutoff switch on this car and where is the relay.

TIA Nolan.

is it turning over its either air, fuel orspark thats the only reasons it can be see if its getting spark then pull a spark plug out stick your finger over the hole and if it blows away on the compression storke you have compression check those and there is no fuel pump shut off

Alright don't know where to begin. Picked up the car for a friend and the car will not start. The fuel pump will not come on. Is there a fuel pump cutoff switch on this car and where is the relay.

TIA Nolan.look under drivers side dash there is a main relay beside steering column next to the cruise control box(silver box)

Ok got the main relay out. Is there a way to test it before I go buy a new one.

The problerms experienced with the main relay involved bad solder joints on the printed circuit board. A close examination will show small breakes around where the relay pins attach to the board. So one fix is to reheat all those joints until the solder melts and then let it set up. I have not heard of bad coils or bad relay contacts. The coils are 12 volt and can be tested woth am ohm meter or 12 volts across the coil to see if it activates.

Little update. I found out it is not the pump. We dropped the tank and hooked directly to the pump + and - success. So I guess I am limited to the relay.

Before you start buying parts, I suggest you do some testing. It could be something else. Check your ignition/spark, your timing belt by looking to see if the cam is turning when you turn the engine, etc. Check the fuel pressure. I have never heard the fuel pump run from inside the car so it might be running after all. Most often the reason the car won't start is ignition related (coil voltage, coil, igniter, main relay, etc.) . The next reason is fuel related which could be the fuel pump, fuel filter, injectors etc)

Found out it is the ignitor coil that has a hole blown in it.

ok i have been having basically the same problem. While messing with the alarm my car just shut off on me. I have ruled out the alarm as the culprit since it unhooked completely and the fact the car has been sitting for the last ten months(wrecked). I tried starter fluid in the intake and checked the fuel pump. I was checking for the main relay but am not sure what it looks like. This is the closest thing i found that could it. If i am wrong can someone please post a pic of it. Also where is the igniter located?
http://pictures.sprintpcs.com//mmps/RECIPIENT/000_224614a6ec227361_1/2?inviteToken=3EbrJ97bmhzYQh4zkLIk&limitsize=258,258&outquality=90&squareoutput=255,255,255&ext=.jpg&iconifyVideo=true&wm=1

Can't help you out on what that is but the ignitor coil is in the distributor cap. Now for another problem I found while changing spark plugs all but one looked normal. The second plug from the front of the motor had a look of baked on oil on it. I thought Ill do a compression check to see what is going on. Results are first cylinder: 210 Second cylinder: 0 Third cylinder: 85 and Fourth cylinder: 190. I am not to worried about number 1 and 4 as I am about 2 and 3. I know something is wrong with number 2 for sure. Could I have a blown head gasket of is something wrong with the head itself.

Does anybody know what could be causing the distributor to not spark. I changed the coil and it did nothing.

Dumb question, but the timing belt is turning the cam and distributor, yes?

You'll get weird compression readings and no spark if the cam is not moving...

Took the valve cover off and the cam is moving. I am thinking about just gettin a new distributor. I guess there is something wrong with the distributor. I am also thinking about the head gasket being the problem with the compression. I have heard it is a common problem on these cars.

Dizzy wasn't red/brown inside, was it? Does the rotor move?

A number of Hondas in the 90's had problems with a lower bearing in the diz that would start rusting and powder the inside of it before breaking, then it won't turn anymore...

Yeah kinda sounds like there's a blowout between 2 and 3.

Or the timing belt snapped before and bent valves in two and three when they hit TDC...at any rate, sounds like a lotta work. Hope that car was cheap...

It was only $400 for the car. I see why now.