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1993 Metro Back Strut Removal - Blast!


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kmatt1111
05-14-2008, 05:00 PM
Hey, anyone have info on why my back strut won't budge? It turns slightly back and forth in its fitting and has moved about an 1/8 inch out of the fitting but won't go any further.

I loosened the bolt holding it to the wheel assembly and applied penetrating oil and disconnected the top part from its mount and yet the bugger won't be beaten off! Is there something I'm missing?!

Thanks in advance...

91Caprice9c1
05-14-2008, 05:07 PM
These can be a PITA. What I usually do is use a prybar in the pinch gap of the spindle after removing the bolt to kind of loosen things up a bit. Also, you must make an effort to keep the shock plumb in the spindle during removal/installation because it binds up easily. Hope this helps.

-MechanicMatt

Woodie83
05-14-2008, 06:03 PM
You need to remove that pinch bolt completely, not just loosen it. There's a groove in the bottom of the strut tube that bolt goes in.

kmatt1111
05-14-2008, 06:37 PM
Mucho thanko, guys! I appreciate it. It figures I didn't go far enough by removing the bolt...

DOCTORBILL
05-14-2008, 11:53 PM
It sure would be nice if you took some pictures of all this to help us unwashed
folks who've never messed with a rear strut....

DoctorBill

91Caprice9c1
05-15-2008, 12:05 AM
Well buy some shocks, Doc, and dive in! :iceslolan

-MechanicMatt

GM Line Rat
05-15-2008, 12:11 AM
Their not to bad Doc (Rear Struts, from memory last year): Jack the rear of the car up and put "Both sides" of the car on jack stands, Chock the front wheels, Then slide a floor jack under the rear control arm your working on 1st for support.......I slightly Heated the strut knuckle pinch collar mounting bolts (#2 in pic 2) with a small map gas torch, then sprayed them down good with "PB-Blaster" and let it set for an Hr or so. Then (As previously mentioned), Loosened and remove the 1st pinch bolt on one side. The rear struts have a groove in them that the pinch bolts slide into and set in, Thats why they have to be removed to get the strut out. I then slightly widened out the knuckle pinch collar slot using a large flat head screwdriver and a hammer and pounding vertically in the Strut collar slot next to the strut (B In the pics below). A couple more small shots of PB-Blaster, a couple of turns L&R and the strut was loose in the collar! Remove the upper strut retaining nut from inside the car (Under plastic cover), Slowly lower the Floor jack and the strut dropped right down. Turn the strut L&R While pulling up on it and it will come out of the Strut knuckle. Repeat on the other side of the car. NOTE: There's a small metal alignment tab on the strut that slides into to open groove in the strut knuckle. In order for the new strut to go back in correctly, theis tab will HAVE to be aligned with the groove. Here's a few pics that show the whole setup.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c83/MrBBody/RearSuspension.gif

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c83/MrBBody/Suspension-Rear2.gif

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c83/MrBBody/Suspension-Rear3.gif

kmatt1111
05-15-2008, 08:53 AM
Awesome exploded parts, Rat!

Also, I'm a newbie, Doc, so I didn't know you guys practiced photographing all of your work. I will keep this in mind in the future and try to deliver photos.

Again, thanks to all.

DOCTORBILL
05-15-2008, 10:16 AM
GM Rat Line - "I Heated the strut pinch collar bolts with a small map gas torch, then....."

On the Exploded Drawings that you so kindly posted, what are the "Pinch Collar Bolts"?

Is that the "Mount Bolt" labeled "2" in the second Drawing?

I would suppose everything is covered in dirt, grim and packed dust when you started.

Would hosing the parts down first with a high pressure soapy water stream aid
in getting the crap off all the bolts and such so that the nuts won't seize in
the threads? Maybe wire brushing the bolt threads beforehand?

I have found that the nuts on large bolts under the vehicle will come off much
easier if you take the time to clean the threads of packed on dirt before trying
to turn them.

DoctorBill

idmetro
05-15-2008, 05:47 PM
One last tip - at reassembly apply some loctite on the threads of the pinch bolt (that's the one labeled #2 in the second drawing). I did not when I replaced mine, a couple of weeks later I picked up a clunk in the rear suspension and upon investigation I found the bolt GONE allowing things to move about when they shouldn't have. Replaced the bolt with a new one and some loctite and no issues since.

91Caprice9c1
05-15-2008, 06:50 PM
... I found the bolt GONE

Yikes!

GM Line Rat
05-17-2008, 08:19 AM
GM Rat Line - "I Heated the strut pinch collar bolts with a small map gas torch, then....."

On the Exploded Drawings that you so kindly posted, what are the "Pinch Collar Bolts"?

Is that the "Mount Bolt" labeled "2" in the second Drawing?

DoctorBill
Yes Doc.......The pinch Collar Bolt IS the Mount Bolt labeled #2 in Drawing #2. Sorry for the GM Assembly Line terminology......far too many years on it.....:crying:


GM Rat Line - Would hosing the parts down first with a high pressure soapy water stream aid
in getting the crap off all the bolts and such so that the nuts won't seize in
the threads? Maybe wire brushing the bolt threads beforehand?

I have found that the nuts on large bolts under the vehicle will come off much
easier if you take the time to clean the threads of packed on dirt before trying
to turn them.

DoctorBill

A Good suggestion Doc, especially if you drive the car alot in muddy or road salt conditions. I Hit the underside of My Metro (The best I Can) at the "Do it Yourself" car wash every few months to prevent alot of buildup on the underside of the car.............Mike

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