New Problem

First I would like to thank everyone for past help.
Got a new problem. Ran fine when I left it. Now it will start up and tick over fine but as soon as you touch the trottle it just goes BLURR. Hold it full open and it just missfires bad and wont go past 2000 rpm. Sounds like it not getting enough fuel. Let off the throttle and it ticks over fine. When you get it good and hot it does ok until 3000rpm then BLURR. Stop it for 2 minuted your back to the begining. Driving it home on the freeway the best it would do was 4000rpm with a constant missfire running at 80. I noticed the relays for the injection sys were very hot to the touch, is this normal? Would be very greatful for any input before I start going through it.

I replaced the plugs, distributor cap and rotor. No change. Next I disconected the fuel return line, started the motor and it filled a 2 pint bottle in a few seconds so we've got fuel. Need a presure tester. Also if you take off the air intake from the throttle body the car won't start. Thought that was strange.

Tested the main EFI relay seems ok. Tested the Circuit Open Relay on the ECU. The resistance checked out apart from crossing B - Fp. Book says it should be Infinity and I got nothing. Does anyone now if this is correct. Pluged the relay back in and started the car and it seemed ok. Put everything back together and it was running a bit rough but driveable. Drove down the street half a mile and it when to crap again. I'm going to replace this relay and see what happens.

I havent swapped any part as yet but I messed with the circuit open relay and the ECU conections and the car seem to go pretty well apart from it's lacking the real top end. A couple of things I have a problem with is the fact that when the air intake is removed from the throttle body the engine stalls out. I wouldnt think the air flow meter would have that kind of effect. Also when the TPS is disconected the car still runs fine apart from a little increase in the Idle speed.

Check over all the grounds, the mr2's are very fussy with grounds, also unplug the fuel pressure regulator and see if theres gas in the vacum line if there is then the reg is shot, if not start the car and apply vacum to the reg if the idle doesn't change you either have a weak fuel pump or a bad reg, also check all the fuel lines for kinks or restrictions, when was the last time you changed the fuel filter, it could be plugged up, check spark, using a spark tester check for a good strong spark, at the coil and the plugs, if its a strong blue then its good if its a whiteish yellow check your coil resistence, if the coil checks out good check for a bad(cracked, pitted, heat scarred, oil soaked) pickup in the distributor, as for the airflow meter when air is sucking across the flap and the flaps open it completes the ground side of the fuel pump, so once you unplug it the ground can't be completed and hence the no starting and for the TPS its just a measuring device, the car will go into a limp mode(predetremined value set by the ecu) and run fine enough to make it to a repair shop, one more thing to check is the ecu, I was having running problems and checked everything then opened the ecm to find 3 capaciters blown apart and 2 diodes cooked

also, one other thing i forgot to mention, check the back pressure of the exhaust, you could have a partially plugged catalytic converter or some other restriction in the exhaust system

Many thanks for the advise. This is all good stuff that will help in the future. The car went back to normal. Just hate it when that happens. I don't know if it was something I did or what.