Greets All,
I need to know if there's a tool to tilt the engine forward after removing the dogbones so I can get my hands behind the engine. I can't seem to torque myself into a position that will allow me proper gripage for the task. Hell, I can't even get the boots off never mind get a socket in there.

I know I can remove the alternator and the coil pack but it would be so much easier if I could tilt the engine. I don't have anything to connect a come-along between the engine lift lug and my house so that's out. I read in another thread a guy had his wife press the brake and slowly bring the RPM's up so he could replace his dogbones. I was wondering if the same would work to tilt the engine and use blocks between alternator and firewall long enough to get the job done.

The other thing is, what do they use in GM shops? Is there a tool that bolts in the holes of the dogbone mounting bracket and grabs the engine lift lug and is maybe wrench or air activated?

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

That was me that had my wife hold the car in reverse and give it a lil gas so I could get the bolt thru the dogbone. with the dogbone off, there was less than an inch between the engine and the firewall, so removing that wouldnt help you much. I would suggest dismounting the back mounts and prying a 2x4 or something in there so you have room to work. and im sure GM dealers would just lift the engine. as for the tool, im thinking all you need is an extender with a universal joint. you have to be creative to get things done behind these engines. i actually redid all my vacuum hoses with everything mounted, and I have big hands. it was a task, but with a lil patience, I got it done...
as you can see in this pic, even with everything mounted, there is VERY LITTLE room.
http://i284.photobucket.com/albums/ll11/DnaProRacing/pcv.jpg

Thanks for the reply. Nice pic BTW.
Yeah I have more room than that. Is that a 3.4? Looking down like that on mine there's a couple inches or so of room and you can see the coil pack. On the passenger side of the engine is the alternator.
I just got this car from an elderly couple and it's in excellent condition. I had another Lumina, a year older, but after two engines because of the intake thing, I quit and got rid of it. :banghead:


I digress. I have more room than you do but if I remove the air snorkel I think I can get the engine to tilt forward a good 4 inches more. I tried the 2x4 thing but only ended up getting the 2x4 stuck between the firewall and alternator...unable to get the dogbone brackets back in place. Kinda comical actually.
Busted my butt and STILL didn't get those three stinkin plugs replaced. Needs it too. The front 3 were baaaaaad. One of them looked like a big blob of wax had been drooled on it. I couldn't tell electrode from ground it was so bad. I have an intermittent skip at idle so I'm HOPING that's the problem. The elderly folks had receipts for a fairly recent tune-up but I'm sure they got screwed given the sulfur buildup I saw on that plug. They got a new battery too..and the monkey that put it in didn't know how to use the plastic retainers for the window washer bottle so there's only one little bolt down low holding it in. Little crap but annoying.

OK..well. Looks like I'm going to remove the hood this weekend and go the 2x4 route again. (It was part of the stuck 2x4 comedy issue). I just thought maybe there was a tool I could rent to crank the engine forward and figured I'd ask the folks here. Thanks again for the advice.

yeah I have the 3.4. z34 matter o fact. same issue when i bought mine, they changed the front 3 plugs but they couldnt get to the back 3. so it spit, farted, etc... eventually quit all together. after getting new plugs and wires. altenator, a/c, radiator, starter all went. systematically i have rebuilt this car. close to 5 grand in it now. but worth it. runs great, and with the flowmasters in the back and the cone air filter, sounds great. people can hear me coming a block away ;)
if you need help with anything under that hood, lemme know. I'll help out best I can through my experiences...
btw, there are dash covers available at partstrain.com if you have the curling dash issue known with these lums...

HELLO,not sure how yours is set up...but 1 side of dog bone should have 2 holes 1 that its in an another used 4 tilting.if you remove bolt tilt then install bolt in the other hole.hope ur set up has the 2 holes.GOOD LUCK

Put the transaxle in Neutral. Remove air intake from throttle body. Get a ratchet strap, hook one end to something that ain't gonna move and the other end through the lift bracket near the TB. Disconnect dogbones, put tension on the strap.

As far as a GM "tool", yes they do make one. It looks like a pair of scissors or an architect compass. The "legs" bolt to the dogbone mounts and the tool is tightened together, pulling the engine forward.

It takes very little to pull the engine forward. I just remove the dogbones, hook a ratch strap on hook the other end to the tongue of my cargo trailer, winch it forward do the work and release. Heck you can hook to a stable work bench, 4x4 post on a carport, screw an I-bolt into something solid. The pull isn't over about 30#. You have to have something to hook to. Doing it with the engine running & someone stepping on the gas in my opinion is a great way to get SERIOUSLY HURT, or break something.

Here is a tool for doing the job. I have never heard or seen one until a poster mentioned it. http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/thx419x.html

42. bucks. I may buy one of these things. I wish it would tilt my 3.8 up enough to pull the oil pan so I could replace the gaskets. Amazon has them for 38. May want to check around.

Corndog...

If your going that route why not go to home depot get a piece of angle iron, and a long bolt & one to bolt 2 pieces together. About $10 or less.

If your going that route why not go to home depot get a piece of angle iron, and a long bolt & one to bolt 2 pieces together. About $10 or less.

Thanks!

I like that even better. I tend to do most by myself and no one is around so I tend to buy tools.

Corndog...

I just change the plugs. There's really no need to roll the engine with a 3.1L. You'll have to move a few things out of the way, like plug wires and the engine harness, but it's not impossible.

I just change the plugs. There's really no need to roll the engine with a 3.1L. You'll have to move a few things out of the way, like plug wires and the engine harness, but it's not impossible.

I changed them on a 3.8 and it was a bear without rolling the engine. The worst problem I had was removing the wires. They were welded on it seemed. Got it all off and replaced.

Next time I will buy or build that A tool.

Corndog...

I have done alot of work on 3.1 they do make a tool to move the motor but its a waste of money i use a ratchet strap and run it to the frame under the front bumper it takes so little to move that motor it will not hurt the paint and i just brake the sparkplugs in half with the wires still on them then unscrew the rest of the plug saves your hand alot of pain

I have done alot of work on 3.1 they do make a tool to move the motor but its a waste of money i use a ratchet strap and run it to the frame under the front bumper it takes so little to move that motor it will not hurt the paint and i just brake the sparkplugs in half with the wires still on them then unscrew the rest of the plug saves your hand alot of pain

Thats a good way. I will remember that. I wont change them again though without moving the engine.

Corndog...