2006 Sonata front rotors


hdwnkr53
04-13-2008, 09:38 AM
Anyone replaced rotors on a 2006 sonata w/abs.Anything i should know before i start job Front rotors

Bear
04-15-2008, 01:15 PM
Have not done this but on the maintenance CD looks straight forward. The factory pads have shims on them and the calipers have metal pad retainers top and bottom (sort of clip in to the caliper, top and bottom). Caliper has retainer bolts and after these are removed the pads should come out. pads out, caliper piston pressed in ( I use a "C" clamp), retainers reinstalled,shims on pads and pads back into the caliper, caliper bolts in and that should do it.

mwsfan
04-26-2008, 05:57 PM
Curious as to why you need to replace Rotors on an 06 Sonata. They should still be good. They will need machined if changing the pads. But otherwise I would just recommend factory pads and rotors because aftermarket tend to squeak.

hdwnkr53
04-27-2008, 09:19 AM
Thanks for the post replies.Got the job done yesterday.The 2006 Sonata has over 60,000 miles on it and the rotors have warped twice already,i'm assuming the factory rotors just weren't made of good quality metal.Also rotors at Hyundai cost $100 each.I replaced them with Raybestos rotors at half that price $54 and Wagner pads @ $40.As for the job itself there are 2 machine-tapered screws holding in the original rotors,i had to drill the heads off them because they were frozen and even an impact driver wouldn't lossen them.According to hyundai they are only used to hold the rotor on during the assembly line build process and do not need to be replaced.To remove the rotor you will have to remove the caliper holding bracket completely (2 bolts) and also the abs/brake hose clip to access the top bolt.Job done in about 2 hours.No more shimmy when braking and working well

ChuckDz
03-04-2009, 12:11 PM
I had a similar problem with my rotors on my 06 Sonata, they warped several times within the first 2 years. The dealership replaced/turned the rotors several times before I reached the end of their warranty at 60k. I discovered the source of the problem when I then had to replace them myself. One of the caliper slide bolts was stuck, so when I applied the breaks they would actually hit the rotor at an angle, causing immediate wear and tear. All I had to do is remove the bolt and apply grease under the boot and I haven't had a problem since. Anyone else out there experience this problem?

ricebike
03-04-2009, 01:41 PM
yes, when i do brake jobs, i'll always arm myself w/ the following

http://www.webbmotorsports.com/howto/images/fb302a50.jpg

and

http://www.drillspot.com/pimages/2977/297796_300.jpg

most backyard people just slide the caliper up, push the piston back, slap on the pads... not me!

i clean the surfaces, check rotor for deep grooves,
if none: use rough sandpaper to deglaze the rotor & clean it off,

clean/ lube/ retorque the sliding caliper pins to the correct torque spec:

http://www.handymanlyness.com/archives/auto/repair/brakes/GM/Jimmy/mxbrfp34a_brake_pads_99_jimmy.jpg

and i check them annually to see if there's any uneven wear on the brake pads

i also use the following behind the pads-shims area; doesn't hurt in case the pad material is noisier than the OEM

http://www.mz3.net/articles/images/241-napa_crc.jpg

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