clunking noise while turning

well back in the summer I had a mechanic take a look at my front end while he was replacing the passengers side lower ball joint for safety cert. He said everything else looked pretty tight but that ball joint had a bit of play in it so he replaced it. I told him when i backed out of the driveway first thing in the morning and went to turn the wheels i got this loud clunk that never came back until the car sat another night. He looked and said it was the strut mount bearing/plates drying out and it was common. Well in the past few days its gotten really bad, constant clunking/cracking when i turn the wheels while stopped or at a low speed. Anything in these cars I can grease up? My old car had grease nipples all over the place, but I cant see any when I take off the wheels. Whatever happened to a good lube job lol. Anyway to get some lube up into the strut bearing plate? any grease points you guys know of?...

oh and another thing...what could the trac/abs/SVS lights have to do with the steering groaning at low speeds? In my car those lights are usually on and the steering feels a bit flaky at low speeds (groans a bit) but the odd time when that light goes out and the abs starts working the steering feels nice and smooth...until the light kicks on :screwy: been like that for a while and i cant see there being a relation because the light is only on due to a bad wheel sensor

oh and another thing...what could the trac/abs/SVS lights have to do with the steering groaning at low speeds? In my car those lights are usually on and the steering feels a bit flaky at low speeds (groans a bit) but the odd time when that light goes out and the abs starts working the steering feels nice and smooth...until the light kicks on :screwy: been like that for a while and i cant see there being a relation because the light is only on due to a bad wheel sensor

That may not be the case. The SVS/Trac Off/ABS lights can come on from other causes not just a bad ABS wheel sensor. It could be failing ABS initialization or maybe there is an issue with the Magnasteer (variable effort steering) or control module which is part of and controlled by the Electronic Brake and Traction Control module (EBCTM). Same module that controls the ABS and Traction Control systems. The EBCTM module controls the EVO actuator used at the rack and pinion. If you get it scanned with an ABS capable scan tool preferably a GM Tech II then there are most likely DTCs stored that may lead to the real underlying issue you are having.

For what its worth, I have my ABS system disabled at the moment because its got an issue that makes it dangerous and I havent gotten it scanned yet, BUT I also noticed that as a result, my Magnasteer is gone, steering is touchy at high speeds and harder at low speeds, opposite of what it would normally be, so it could very well be that an ABS issue disables Magnasteer, all I did was pull the fuse and I have all the same lights minus the SVS light, and I have the BRAKE light.

But as Bnaylor said, it could be something besides a wheel sensor, but Im guessing your mechanic scanned it?

Also, the strut bearings are not grease able, they simply have to be replaced if they dry out.

Im thinking its gonna be a bad hub (or two :banghead:) causing the ABS lights... Mechanic did a safety inspection when i got it, had to replace some things...but i guess he never checked the wheel bearings. I dont know if they are bad because they dont make any noise and theres no front end shimmy etc... Problem is, i can feel some play in both front wheels. I noticed it when it was on the ground and i grabbed the top of the tire and rocked it in and out and i can hear a "tunk tunk". Ill have to look at it a little closer, just because i have never had a bad wheel bearing that didnt first start making noise on the highway. Whats the best way to check wheel bearing play? grab tire at 6 and 12 oclock and rock it? are they allowed a bit of play i wonder? I know some trucks have a bearing play tolerance but not sure about cars

How many miles do you have?

Excess steering free play and clunk stationary or turning can be caused by worn out inner or outer tie rod ends. Best way to test it is to safely jack one wheel up at a time and do the 9 and 3 o'clock test on it. Get the wheel off the ground. Start with observing the outer tie rod end and where it connects to the steering knuckle.

The wheel pull test may not be effective for checking wheel bearing slop but try the 12 or 6 o'clock test similar to the above method. Technically to check wheel bearing wear and whether out of tolerance the wheel should be removed, the disc rotor left on which a few lug nuts holding it and a dial gauge is used to check for wear while pulling out on the rotor. Compare against specs in the service manuals.

You can have a bad hub wheel bearing but the ABS wheel sensor could be good or vice versa. Another check you can do is to check resistance of the respective wheel sensor with a DMM. In ohms position across the two electrical contacts hub side. Reading will vary but look for around 1K-1.5K ohms.

As mentioned earlier best to use an ABS capable scan tool for diagnostics.

You could have a couple of things going on. Your inner tie rods are probably the issue with clunking (Been there, done that). You may also need to replace the wheel hub assembly as well (Been there, did that as well). To save yourself some money on the wheel hub assembly, ask your mechainc if you can supply him with the parts. It will save you at least $100 on EACH assembly. Buy it off of E-Bay or any auto part store. You should be able to find the parts for under $100 each.

well i lifted the wheel of the ground, and i do have a slight free play in the tire...as i said if I grab at 6 and 12 oclock and rock the tire i get a "tunk tunk tunk tunk" so Im pretty sure the bearing is out of spec. I was gonna try and tighten up the center nut but I dont have a socket big enough to get on it. Im wondering if that bolt might not be tight enough? i know if they arent snugged up you can get some wheel slop. Also, those hubs are bad news in canada. $230 EACH :banghead: ...im thinking of ordering a pair of them off the net for $189.. 2nd one down
http://www.1aauto.com/1A/wheel-bearing-hub-front/Oldsmobile/Intrigue

Is this a trustworthy website anyone with any experience? I hate dumping credit card #'s on the net...

I got under and greased the outer tie rods, and one ball joint (the other doesnt have grease fitting)...Only on a jack so im not gonna climb under and attempt the inner tie rods without some blocks or ramps. Are they inners greasable?

Another issue causing steering clunk can be that your intermediate steering shaft needs lubricated. This is usually most evident when turning the wheel while sitting still or at low speeds while accelerating.

The tie rods, as mentioned, are also quite common. I had both my outer tie-rods replaced at 50k miles and it feels like something's beginning to loosen up a bit again, as I have a bit more wheel play than normal on the highway and it's beginning to shake ever so slightly on the highway.

Looks like a legitimate site. give them a call to order the parts.

How far are you from the US border? If you had a friend you could ship it too, then drive down and get it, might be cheaper in the long run.

I believe that center nut is a 34mm. You can rent one from most auto parts stores if you plan on doing the work yourself, youll need it for the bearing anyway.

looks like that site ships to canada...probly an extra 20 bucks for cross border UPS shipping. Im a few hours from niagra falls...but i was planning on driving down to windsor with some friends so I could just cross over to detroit and check out autozone or something for prices.

Should be able to check out Autozone's prices online, that might save some time and effort.

Another issue causing steering clunk can be that your intermediate steering shaft needs lubricated. This is usually most evident when turning the wheel while sitting still or at low speeds while accelerating.

The tie rods, as mentioned, are also quite common. I had both my outer tie-rods replaced at 50k miles and it feels like something's beginning to loosen up a bit again, as I have a bit more wheel play than normal on the highway and it's beginning to shake ever so slightly on the highway.

you know, the more i listen the more it sounds like its coming from the frond drivers side area. I have heard about the steering shaft issue, and wonder if this is my problem. It just seemed to spring up over-night. I get this clunking/popping noise as I turn the wheel (most noticable when car is first driven in the morning)...does it rolling or sitting still so its not a CV joint. Doesnt seem to be any play doing the 9 and 3 oclock wheel test (tie rods feel OK) My guess is one of 3 things. 1) Strut bearing noise 2)wheel bearing noise 3) steering shaft noise....Now I KNOW i read a tutorial on here about greasing up the steering shaft if someone would be so kind to point me to it. Search braught up nothing....

If you suspect that it is the steering shaft, I just take a can of undercoating oil such as rust check or crown (in Canada) and just spray the joint. It is a bit of a pain to get to because you have to pull off the felt trim under the dash and then pull back the boot that the steering shaft is housed in. After a good spraying it gets rid of my clunking.

ill give that a try, I think this may be my issue.

I used white lithium grease in the spray can. Easier to apply with the straw attached.

Sounds like the ISS to me, too. The spray grease is a great temporary fix but I'm finding that in my case it only lasts for about a month and then I have to do it again. Takes 5 minutes but it's pretty hard on the ol'back trying to get under there. Thinking about shelling out the $$$ to have a mechanic replace it with a new one.

Good luck. Hope the spray grease fixes it for you.

i had 2 problems. The steering shaft was making most of the clunking, but there was still clunking in the wheels. The other day i started hearing a squeaking from the front wheels that sounded like brake squealers...but theres still plenty of meat on the pads. Did the turn test and i get the squeak turning right but not turning left...regardless of speed. So that combined with the wheel play and the ABS/trac lights on lead me to order up a set of new wheel hubs that come with ABS seosors. Hoping this will give me my trac control and ABS back..and stop the clunking. Just a heads up if you all have to order something give www.1aauto.com a try. I got a pair of wheel hubs for 180 bucks + 30 shipping...to order them locally...220 EACH :screwy:. They also sell the UIM for 99 bucks on the 3800's..with better egr ports to prevent melting.

Hello! Im having the EXACT same problem on my 98 buick regal GS supercharger! No one can figure out whats wrong!!! What happened to be your problem, what was wrong with it? I have had mine taken to 3 mechanics and none of them can figure out what it is.. please respond ASAP! THANKS!!!
well back in the summer I had a mechanic take a look at my front end while he was replacing the passengers side lower ball joint for safety cert. He said everything else looked pretty tight but that ball joint had a bit of play in it so he replaced it. I told him when i backed out of the driveway first thing in the morning and went to turn the wheels i got this loud clunk that never came back until the car sat another night. He looked and said it was the strut mount bearing/plates drying out and it was common. Well in the past few days its gotten really bad, constant clunking/cracking when i turn the wheels while stopped or at a low speed. Anything in these cars I can grease up? My old car had grease nipples all over the place, but I cant see any when I take off the wheels. Whatever happened to a good lube job lol. Anyway to get some lube up into the strut bearing plate? any grease points you guys know of?...

oh and another thing...what could the trac/abs/SVS lights have to do with the steering groaning at low speeds? In my car those lights are usually on and the steering feels a bit flaky at low speeds (groans a bit) but the odd time when that light goes out and the abs starts working the steering feels nice and smooth...until the light kicks on :screwy: been like that for a while and i cant see there being a relation because the light is only on due to a bad wheel sensor

the clunking while I turned the wheels was the upper strut mount bearings...best to get complete new struts with mounts in the front end. My other problem was the wheel bearings (wheel hubs), they were worn and causing some noises, also turning on the ABS warning lights on the dash (and when the ABS warning lights turn on, the ABs system along with the 'magna steer' variable effort steering is disabled, causing the steering to be harder at low speeds). another common problem is the steering shaft making a clunking noise while turning, there is a procedure that involves lubricating the steering shaft down under the dash, however most mechanics short of a dealership know nothing of this fix (as its a pretty uncommon job to have to preform, best to 'spoon feed' the information to them in some cases)

i had 2 problems. The steering shaft was making most of the clunking, but there was still clunking in the wheels. The other day i started hearing a squeaking from the front wheels that sounded like brake squealers...but theres still plenty of meat on the pads. Did the turn test and i get the squeak turning right but not turning left...regardless of speed. So that combined with the wheel play and the ABS/trac lights on lead me to order up a set of new wheel hubs that come with ABS seosors. Hoping this will give me my trac control and ABS back..and stop the clunking. Just a heads up if you all have to order something give www.1aauto.com (http://www.1aauto.com) a try. I got a pair of wheel hubs for 180 bucks + 30 shipping...to order them locally...220 EACH :screwy:. They also sell the UIM for 99 bucks on the 3800's..with better egr ports to prevent melting.


steering shaft - very common