Hey just thought I'd share an EASY way to pop the front hubs off, without using a slide hammer, or renting a puller.

go to a hardware store and buy 4 M10x1.25 x 5" MUST be all threads up to the bolt head, no shoulders.

remove the Large 36mm nut, remove caliper/bracket.

remove only 2 of the rotor bolts.

Now, screw in 2 of the bolts you purchased into where you removed the 2 rotor bolts.

alternate tightening them a few turns each, and it WILL pull the hub out, nice and easy. It also WILL pull the inner race out with it. (I call the race that butts up to the hub itself the "inner" race).

I did this on both sides, and the bearings did not come out , they just stayed in place, so I could have just bolted on a new rotor and been done with it.

But I was also replacing the wheel bearings (high mile car) while I had everything apart.

to re-assemble into the bearings, simply put the rotor/hub in place, align the splines of the axle shaft, and tap it in place, just enough to get the large nut started, get out your impact gun and crank it down a little bit. then remove the nut, and place a washer (one that will fit over the axle shaft) then the large nut and impact it home. (the washer allows the nut to spin more freely).

I wanted to post this because I spent a good hour online trying to dig up info on how to do this, and there were a few write ups, but none that helped much. I will add a few pictures I took, and its only a few cuz my camera battery died. (why does it always die when you REALLY need it!) and I was too dirty to go inside the house.

Oh, and since you are probably wondering how I got the inner races off, I took it to a local alignment/brake shop, and the pressed them off in less than 10 minutes (damn I want a press now!) no charge (don't expect the NO charge thing too often!).

On my son's 95 LX, rotor sits on the steering knuckle. So unfortunately your trick did not work here. I took it to the local shop for disassembly. They charged me $45 dollars per axle. That is FORTY FIVE!!!

Well I saw how they did it. One guy just held it and another one hit it hard with a hammer. They used a steel peace that fit into the bearing so the bearing would not be damaged.

I learned something that day even though it cost me $90.00

Sam

And thank you for the post!!!

Sam

1995 is the same style. The rotors I put on my car were from a 1995 accord, so I know its the same style. The rotor sits BEHIND the hub, instead of in front like almost every other car on the road. I will never understand why they did it this way, and for so long.

but this would have worked for you too.

here is a photo of the 2 bolts in place.

http://img296.imageshack.us/img296/8967/parts010ie4.jpg

and here is a photo from the back side showing that it has been pulled almost all the way out.

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/3446/parts011as4.jpg

All you are doing is using the rotors existing threads , putting in a much longer bolt so that when it bottoms out, it HAS to pull the hub from the bearing.

I forgot to mention in the original post, that you should buy GRADE 8 bolts, or you'll just strip the threads on the bolts., and I only use 2, but its best to buy 4 , that way if you ruin a bolt you still have the spares for the other side.

if you do ruin the threads on the bolt, its not a big deal because the new rotor has the threads, its not the hub itself that has them.

it worked for me on BOTH sides.

good luck on your projects!

I think you are right!

I could have done it myself for $5.00 instead of paying that jerk!!!

Well, I paid for the lesson...


Sam

Thanks for the posting. It's something I have been looking for for a long time. I tried to get the rotor off since the brake chatters at high speed braking. But even with a slider hammer, I couldn't get it move. Now I can tackle it much easily.

Your photos don't show up. I saw them couple days ago with no problem, but not any more. Can you find out why? Thanks.

Thanks for the post!
Tips like this are priceless!

Alright I think I understand this but let me ask a question or two, Oh yah and good to join the forum. Ok so first of all do I have to take the knuckle off or can this be done with out taking and part of the suspension apart? Because if it can this is awesome if you still have to take the knuckle off than there really is no point in doing this. Also what is the inner race? and will I need a new one after doing this? Can this be done with out replacing the wheel bearing or all I have to do is re-grease it and slap it back in the new rotor. Thanks guys this is already a big help.

you do not need to remove the knuckle unless you plan on replacing the bearing itself, if you just want to replace the rotors, this is by far the easiest and cheapest alternative! the axle nut needs to come off, which is the biggest pain in the butt of this job, the rest is relatively easy.

Pretty neat!

A lotta people don't realize it, but many Jap cars have two threaded holes in the rear drums that work the same way...you just thread two of the proper size bolt in there and tighten, and it pushes the drum off the hub...

No violence with hammer and WD-40 required.

Sounds like the easiest and CHEAPEST way to get the hub and rotor off my 97 Accord, the garage wanted $40 to replace a busted lugnut stud that I bought at Advance Auto Parts for $1.38. What do these two 5 inch bolts bottom-out against to pull the hub and rotor off? I’ve already tried with a good-sized hammer and a ball-joint fork and thay won’t budge. These bolts are going to be putting some major force on something and I don’t want to screw anything up. Also, if I do get them off and replace the broken stud, how do I get them back on so I can screw the 36mm axle nut back on?

Thanks,
Jim

What size is that axle nut? I better plan ahead. Thanks!

What size is that axle nut? I better plan ahead. Thanks!
36 mm

36 mm

Great, thanks!

Sounds like the easiest and CHEAPEST way to get the hub and rotor off my 97 Accord, the garage wanted $40 to replace a busted lugnut stud that I bought at Advance Auto Parts for $1.38. What do these two 5 inch bolts bottom-out against to pull the hub and rotor off? I’ve already tried with a good-sized hammer and a ball-joint fork and thay won’t budge. These bolts are going to be putting some major force on something and I don’t want to screw anything up. Also, if I do get them off and replace the broken stud, how do I get them back on so I can screw the 36mm axle nut back on?

I am not really sure what you meant by a hammer and a ball joint fork, but using my method the bolts bottom out against the the bearing housing itself. Even if you go by the book of using a slide hammer, you are still removing the same parts. Just so happens that my way is easier. The rotor itself is threaded, so even if you did somehow mess up the threads, all you'd need to replace is the rotor.

If you take your time and adjust each bolt in a little at a time you won't ruin any threads, and you'll be surprised how easy it is. And by leaving 2 of the original rotor bolts in place, you are keeping it in the right position.

JUST a quick FYI. if you're bearing is NOT making any noise, and one of the ball bearings slips out, wipe it off very good, and put a dab of wheel bearing grease on it so it will stay in position. I did NOT have any issues with the bearings coming out, and 9 times out of 10 you should not have an issue.

If you are planning on replacing the bearings as well, be SURE you have a way to get the hub to a shop so they can press the old race off, and install the new assembly on the hub for you.

I will gladly answer any more questions about this. I would like to add that I have since sold the car, and bought a toyota camry (I still miss the accord though, although I like the camry too.)

I can't seem to get the axle nut off, which way should I be turning it, clockwise or counterclockwise?

I am pretty sure it is a regular thread and your turn it to the left. I have a 3 foot long steel tube from an old bike that I use on the end of my sockets to make for better leverage in these hard situations, works great. Good luck.

This method is the best by far for removal of the hub and/or rotors. No need for a slide hammer or banging the hell out of it with a deadblow hammer. I did it on my Accord and it worked like a dream. The only thing I would change is you don't need screws quite that long to do the job. I used a couple of 2 1/2 or 3 inch screws. But you still have to get the ones threaded all the way up to the head like it says to do. I didn't even remove the entire spindle off the car, I just removed the brake caliper and tied it up, then removed the axel nut and the bottom ball joint and slid the axel out. I then removed the 4 screws in the back (you need a 12 point 10mm for those) and removed 2 of the 4 screws on the front like it says to do (actually is wiser to loosen those 4 screws on the front first before anything, but just loosen) and then do the method it describes. I had to have this done to replace a couple of wheel lug studs and I had to replace my rotors too. Whoever came up with this should be nominated for a Nobel Prize or something.

And just to add a little to what dude was saying, when I did this the screws bottomed out on the tin brake shield which was cool cuz that brake shield isn't a major part of anything important. I have a 92 Accord so I don't know if that makes a difference or not. And as far as the axel nuts, mine where acting crazy so I took it to a shop and they loosened them for me with an impact wrench. When I put everything back together the hub went right back on nicely with those 4 screws in the back that you have to remove. Just position the hub on and use those screws to pull it back into place. Thats the 4 screws in the back not the 4 in the front by the way.

I am pretty sure it is a regular thread and your turn it to the left. I have a 3 foot long steel tube from an old bike that I use on the end of my sockets to make for better leverage in these hard situations, works great. Good luck.
... and I have somebody stand on the brakes so the transmission will not be ruined.

Sam

... and I have somebody stand on the brakes so the transmission will not be ruined.

Sam

Better yet, loosen the axel nut with the car on the ground. Its a lot easier that way cuz the car won't move and the you don't have to neccessarily worry about ruining the tranny.

Better yet, loosen the axel nut with the car on the ground. Its a lot easier that way cuz the car won't move and the you don't have to neccessarily worry about ruining the tranny.

I always loose the axle nut with the tire attached and on the floor. This way the torque will be equalized by the tire, not the tranny gears.

go to a hardware store and buy 4 M10x1.25 x 5" MUST be all threads up to the bolt head, no shoulders.


I have been searching since this thread came out, NO hardware store seems to carry this, where have you guys been finding them? Any chance to order them online?

I bought them at an ace hardware store locally. ANY hardware store should be able to order the bolts you want, they may not stock them, but should be able to get them.

BUT here is an option if you want to buy them online

http://www.boltdepot.com/product.aspx?cc=20&cs=77&cm=21&cd=1307&selected=6323

OR like this

www.boltdepot.com and in the FIND box type this part number 6323

it will be M10 x 1.25 x 110MM(length) which is the longest they sell in that size, it is at the bottom of the table that pops up. That bolt is a little over 4 1/4 long, and it SHOULD work.

But I would highly recommend asking someone at the hardware store about ordering some for you, should be cheaper and faster than ordering them online.

I am glad to see that many have tried my method and are having such good luck with it!

I tried to edit my last post about where to buy the bolts, as that part number is NOT correct, its the right size and pitch, but that bolt is not a fully threaded bolt.

Make sure whoever you talk to at a hardware store KNOWS that you need a "tap bolt" or "fully threaded" (means the same thing)

Thanks fellas. Your conversation has made this an effortless task for me. I did it with 70mm or 3 inch fully threaded non hardened bolt which I also purchased at my local Ace Hardware store. It was so easy on mine, that I think plastic threads would have done it! (maybe an exageration) Anyone have torque specs for the axel nut? :confused:

Thanks fellas. Your conversation has made this an effortless task for me. I did it with 70mm or 3 inch fully threaded non hardened bolt which I also purchased at my local Ace Hardware store. It was so easy on mine, that I think plastic threads would have done it! (maybe an exageration) Anyone have torque specs for the axel nut? :confused:
181 ft/lb

Sam

I'm glad to see this last post, as I would advise against tightening the axle nut with an impact wrench.

Even though I no longer own an accord, I was able to re-use this information I posted on a car I worked on yesterday.

1992 accord,

the shop quoted him $350 for the brake job (front only, what a rip off!)

I did it for a hair over $100 including parts and labor!

both sides went flawlessly using this method.

this needs to be stickied to the top!

I did end up stripping out the bolts on the first rotor, and had to use a 2nd pair of bolts for the other side. But on the 2nd side, the bolts did not strip out, and can be used again, so its just kind of luck of where the bolt hits when it starts forcing the hub out.

This little jewel of a tip made it SIMPLE for this first timer.....Thanks for the great post!!!

I am glad to see this is still helping people! While I still do not own an accord I do own a 1994 honda civic now (which does not have this issue).

as far as this comment :

"I'm glad to see this last post, as I would advise against tightening the axle nut with an impact wrench. "

It is fine to use the impact gun. Most of the DIY'ers do not have the high dollar impact guns, so the cheaper ones you buy do not have a very high ft lb rating (despite what the package says, lol)

but if you do have a high dollar gun, set it to a lower setting. it is MUCH easier to do this with an impact gun (if you have access) however, it is NOT 100% necessary.

I would however recommend NOT using an impact gun on the bolts you use to press off the rotor.

good luck!

you guys saved me a big bucks, i did my 92' Accord Rotors, i even used 2" bolts (thats what i found in local store)

i had to use chims(i used an old brake pads or something) from the back to pull rotors out, bolts were a little short, but it worked.


i used my $230.00 impact gun:biggrin: and put the hub assembly back togather

god damn the mechanics are ripoff here,

i just wanted to share my experience.
thkx