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Stick/Arc welding body panels

03-25-2008, 05:23 AM
I have a 1977 C10 truck that needs some TLC. The main project I am focusing on is making the cab solid again. I need to weld in new floor pans, rock panels, and cab corners. My biggest problem is that I only have a stick/arc welder to work with.

I don't know the exact model # for the welder, but I know it is a gas powered Miller. I do not need the prettiest welds, just something that can hold up to everyday wear and tear.

I know that MIG or even TIG would be better for this sort of application, but can it be done with a stick welder? I am guessing a very low setting on the welder would be in order. The biggest question is what sort of electrode would I use?

Is it possible or even plausible?


04-06-2008, 09:30 AM
Stick's usually have a much higher amperage and require that to melt the electrode. Most of the time you can not weld sheet with stick. Stick is designed for heavy duty applications. It can be done, if you're good.

04-09-2008, 11:20 AM
You are better off mig welding them on and make sure you do not warp the metal by welding it at all once.

05-09-2008, 08:57 PM
How about OA welding? Too much heat for such thin material?

I know any welding takes practice and experience, I am just trying to find the best way to do this.

I already have a stick welder and an OA outfit so those are my first two options since I would have to purchase a MIG welder.

I know this has been answered time and again but would something like a HH 140 do the job or could I get away with something smaller?

02-17-2009, 06:05 PM
Is your stick machine DC. If so I would go with TIG. Buy a dry Tig torch and lease a argon bottle. You won't regreat it. Still you have to make small welds well spaced and cool. Even a MIG will warp metal in the flat.


You can Carbon arc some silicon-bronze (check spelling) Tricky but neet when you get the hang of it.

02-02-2010, 01:56 AM
Without a mig welder (hobart welders ( welders (, as someone already mentioned, you risk the chance of changing the shape of the metal to the point where it doesn't match the other end. I'd say if you don't have the previous experience, find someone who will lend you one of those hobart welders ( and go from there. I've used a buddy's MIG, and I'll tell you, I wouldn't risk the body of my old car with sticks.

10-05-2014, 11:04 PM
If you already have a torch rig you can braze the floor pan in...or torch weld the floor pan have to use a fairly small tip for this and small braze rod...material must be super your heat...once you hit the melting point its on like donkey kong...keep your heat in your puddle and feed feed an inch here and an inch there...keep these at least 6 to 8 inches apart...helps with warping of to have at least a 1/4" overlap...I wouldnt recommend butt welding unless your real good...keep your little ball peen hammer you heat you can tap the panels down flush with each other...keep a fire extinguisher on hand...your filler wire should be no more than the thickness of the material your welding....stick welding can be done but you gotta be real good at it or you will make a mess and have to start over..

12-21-2014, 03:56 PM
If your going to use stick make sure you get the appropriate electrode. Many different electrodes come in different sizes/thickness, all with their own characteristics. find a rod that is suitable and capable of withstanding the harshest seasons (winter/summer). using the right rods could save you future problems. With the right machine settings, and some concentration, you should be fine. Just some little tips.

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