I need help b4 i buy one

I have the option to buy a really nice stealth in very well condition but the motor has no compression what i think happened it the timing belt broke anyone have any advice wheather or not i should buy it its 400 bux

if it's a SOHC engine, then you can just slap on a new belt and tensioner pulley (I'd advise a new water pump as well), and you're good to go.

If it's a DOHC, you'll need at least new heads also.

its a dohc so what happens that i need to replace the heads too did the valves slap the pistons or what i mean its got no compression

The pistons and valves got in a boxing match. At the very least you will need to have the heads rebuilt, probably cheaper to just buy a good used pair. The pistons could possibly be damaged. I have even heard of people saying that has caused spun bearings. I don't think that is too likely though.

Depending on the price it might be worth it. Just remember that you'll be at least two grand into repairs.

so in theory all i have to do is replace the heads right? plus a few odds and ends

so in theory all i have to do is replace the heads right? plus a few odds and ends

Well, I'd check the pistons and I'd also check the bearing clearances to be sure.

Just buy a used motor for $500-700 and drop it in. It will save you the headaches of fixing that engine and you will have a spare short block.

Just buy a used motor for $500-700 and drop it in. It will save you the headaches of fixing that engine and you will have a spare short block.

Fine idea.

thanks guys

so i put new heads on it and lined up all the timing marks and guess what i turn it over by hand and it stops about 1/3 the way around like something is hitting go figure knew it was too good to be true

any ideas on where a guys could get a new motor from?

ebay. there are lotsa reputible vendors on there. dohc motors run bout 7-800. or if ur feelin froggy, i got a tt motor you could drop in. could stand a rebuild tho... sellin it pretty cheap tho

what kinda rebuild an entire engine rebuild?

1 more newb question what vr4 stand for and how do i know if my stealth is a vr4?

There is a huge debate as to what VR4 stands for.

Also there are no VR4 Stealths. The TT Stealths are just Stealth R/T Turbos.

The best way to tell is to #1 pop the hood and look for the y pipe off the throttle body or #2 look under the car for a driveshaft going to a rear differential.

sweet so if i buy a non vr4 motor it will drop in just fine.
and btw very nice ride

this site has answered so many questions already thanks for the help
any other suggestions to make this thing either sell good or improve performance w/o spending a ton

1 more newb question what vr4 stand for and how do i know if my stealth is a vr4?

the most popular thought is that VR4 stands for viscous real-time 4wd, but like stealthee said, that's under debate.
The VR-4 was the top model twin turbo AWD 3000GT. The equivalent Stealth is the R/T TT. If your Stealth has turbos and AWD, it's that one.

The VR4/TT engine will bolt in just fine, but you will need a few other things to make it work, like an ECU.

where is the mfi located

The MFI relay in on the center console under the carpet on the passenger side.

this will cause the engine not to fire right even if the fuel pump is hot wired? i believe it cuts the spark aswell.
b4 all this happened it had a pretty signifficant miss at low idle at higher idle i cant really tell but than again it could just be a plugged injector my bonnivle did the same thing and we ran some injector cleaner through it and it fixed the problem the thing is that injector cleaner is 80 bux and it works miracles not sure i want to risk it knowing the fuel pump doesnt work normally under its own power. its a 95 boni with the charger in mint cond wanna park it away for a bit and save some miles and try to split them between 3 vehicles of mine got a 87 dodge ram lil p/u that mitsu made aswell thats under the restoration process