I am looking to locate my IAT sensor on my 1993 Ford Taurus. I don't know which clip it is. Will it say IAT on it or what? If anyone has pictures of where it is that would be sooooo helpful. Thanks to anyone that will help me out!

Welcome to the forum!

Since you don't mention which engine you have, I'll assume the 3.0L 12V engine. The IAT is located on the back of the intake manifold, passenger side. It will have two wires going to it, a gray wire and a gray wire with a red tracer stripe.

Care to explain why you're looking for it? You're not going to try installing one of those worthless "chips" that bypass the IAT with a fixed $0.02 resistor I hope!

-Rod

Well ya I am installing a chip. But its one that I know will work. Tried it on my buddies car. I have heard of some not so good ones. I'm guessing that you have also heard this? Which ones? This one is a money back guarantee so if it happens to not work on my car then I can just send it back. But it worked on my buddies car so ya. You ever hear of any wrecking motors? or just being a waste of money? thanks.

If it's a "chip" that requires wiring into the IAT, they're all the same. They're a 2 cent resistor that you could get from an electronics store. It just bypasses the IAT, making the computer think that the intake air charge is always a set temperature and fooling the computer into using an inaccurate Air-fuel ratio. As for wrecking engines, why do you think they say that they aren't for use on turbo charged cars? It's because a turbo car requires a well-controlled air-fuel ratio. If you go to lean, you'll get good performance for a short time until the piston and/or valves burn up.

Save your money. The improvement you notice is more than likely psychological.

-Rod

Oh come on Rod, you mean with your background, you didn't try to tinker with that yourself? :D

It sounds like these things are put in place of the IAT. To me, if one were to "tinker" with the resistance profile of the varistor(sp?) you would start with varying a fixed resistance in series or in parallel with the IAT, depending on the coefficient of the varistor resistance to temp, and then for lean conditions, to be sure that the total effective resistance doesn't reach a critical resistance to leanness ratio, use some sort of clamping or resistance limiter. Or, just leave the d... thing alone. As I have learned, fooling around with electronics and electricity can cost you more than you were hoping to gain when you don't know what you are doing. Though I have a flat learning curve as a diehard tinkerer. In this instance you could fry your ECA and it may even cascade to your PCM, two rather expensive parts. But no worry about your electronics if you use your "chip", just maybe your engine, as Rod pointed out you don't want it to lean out, that will hurt even more.

Rod, will these "chips" give lean and rich codes with a more fixed AF ratio? What about emissions for states that's an issue? Good reasons not to use them maybe.

I would not be the least bit surprised if they give codes for AF ratio, or codes for oxygen sensors, muck with the short and long term fuel trims, and may cause emissions tests to fail. I've honestly never played with them because I understand (to some extent) the amount of engineering that goes into something like an automotive PCM and the reason for the IAT to begin with. The emissions system is pretty well optimized from the factory to provide power, economy, and reliability. Pretty much any change to increase one will decrease the other two.

-Rod

Ok well I went ahead and I installed this chip. You guys are probably right and it won't do much. But this is whats happening. I am definately getting more acceleration. That is much better. But its my top end that seems weird now. When on the highway it tops out at 160 now, before I installed the chip it was like 180. And also when I just rev it up it, it seems fine until I hold the gas all the way down. When I hold it down and it hits the peak of the rev it seems like it cuts in and out. I'm not sure if u know what I mean. But when I listen to it its like cutting in and out and it never did that before. What does this all mean? Cause I like the better acceleration but i'm not sure of everything else. What should I do. Help me out guys? Thanks

You must be talking speed in km/h.

The rev limiter should kick in around 3000 or 3500 rpms. That is normal when in park or neutral.

-Rod