Does anyone have pictures under the boot of the tie rod and or explain how to replace.

Don't have pics but can tell you how to remove it.

1. Raise the front of the vehicle and take the wheel off.
2. Hold the tie-rod with a wrench and loosen the jam nut enough to mark the positon of the tie-rod end in relation to the threads.
3. Remove the cotter pin from the tie-rod end stud and discard. Use a new cotter pin upon installation.
4. Remove the nut from the tie-rod end stud.
5. Strike the knuckle arm where the tie-rod goes through with a hammer to free the stud. Remove the tie-rod.

Welcome to the forum.
Perhaps you were interested in what is inside the boot? After releasing the inner and outer band clamps on the boot, it can be pulled off the rod where Dave left off. Then you need a special tool to loosen the inner tie rod from the rack. I have been fortunate to be able to remove it with an open end wrench or an adjustable. It does take a considerable amount of force to get it to come loose. And before you attempt to take it off, I find it best to remove either a rivet or spring roll pin that is in one of the hex faces of the head of the rod. It is to keep the rod from loosening off the rack. I recommend going to an autoparts store or an online store to get a better look and idea at what you want.

I just changed the right outer on my 94, and it was so bad that when I went to loosen the jam nut the tie rod just pulled out of the socket.
Damm Now What?
So I took a big C clamp to hold it together, and was then able to loosen the jam nut.
Also replaced both sway bar link kits, and was using a air chisle to try to loosen them, couldn't believe they were that frozen on there.
Ended up taking a hack saw to them and sawing them in half and they fell right out then.
Tony

Not sure why you'd loosen the jam nut - that leads to needing re-alignment. I just did both outer on a 95 by removing the crown bolt from the tie rod, popping it out and then het the tie rod end with lots of good lube and about 10 minutes of heat. After that, the end just turned off like a charm and I was able to zip on the new one right to the same thread position - against the jam nut = no re-alignment.

Just my 2 cents.

I have found it best to remove the outer tie rod from the inner, you would want to have a backer wrench on the jam nut to crack the two apart. But you wouldn't even need a fraction of a turn of the nut, so nothing lost there, but only in a perfect world would the alignment be exactly where it needs to be after reassembly. Recently I did exactly all of that and the alignment was off. Boy was I disappointed. It took me a lot of adjusting on both sides to get it aligned and centered. I have done this more than once with similar disappointing results.