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3.1 1993 Regal runs until it warms up then won't restart until it cools


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rkirby
03-01-2008, 11:29 AM
Starts up fine after it gets up to temperture it dies and won't restart until it cools off. Checked the codes and it just gave code 42. Need help.

GTP Dad
03-01-2008, 05:42 PM
Welcome to AF!!

The problem seems to be with one of the sensors or the ignition module. Sometimes heat will cause the ignition module to shut down. If that proves to be OK then try replacing the crank position sensor. They usually act up when hot rather than when cold.

HotZ28
03-10-2008, 08:17 PM
I'm having the exact same problem on my 1990 Buick Regal 3.1 liter. I can start it up every time first thing in the morning (or after it has sat for hours during the day) but after letting it sit and idle for only 5 minutes it shuts itself off and won't restart at all until it has cooled down (again for hours at a time). I tried replacing all 6 sparks plugs and the ICM (ignition control module) located under the three coil packs, which were a real pain in the you-know-what to replace! But the problem still exists. Does anybody know what could be wrong? I know you are new to the forums, but posting the same question in multiple threads will not give you a quicker response. You already have your own thread with the same questions. Please Read our AF Community Gguidelines (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/guidelines.html)

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redheadedtwizzler
03-25-2008, 11:07 AM
Sorry about posting my question twice in two different forums. I replaced the crank position sensor (CPS) over the weekend and now my 1990 Buick Regal Custom with its' 3.1 liter V6 runs continuously without shutting itself down after 5 minutes or so like it used to. Thanks for the help! That was very very frustrating. The sensor only cost me about $20 dollars, but it sure wasn't an easy thing to replace. Just so anyone else out there may have this same problem on there 3.1 liter, the CPS is located on the passenger side rear part of the motor, above the oil pan and near the crankshaft pully. You will have to raise the car up and crawl underneath to see it and get to it. You will also need small to medium sized hands to get it off. It is held in place by only one small 10mm bolt. Be careful prying it out, as the plastic housing will easily break apart. I had to use Vise Grips on mine along with a long thin prybar just to get it to come out, because it kept dissentigrating on me. But after I got it out and replaced it, the car has been running fine eversince. Doing this job myself was well worth the effort and savings versus paying some inflated auto mechanics' labor charges (robbery) these days! Good luck

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