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87 conv lots of love lots of problems


s_morgan28
02-28-2008, 11:39 AM
on my 87 lebaron the top will go up and down no problem but when going up it stops 2 inches from being able to close i have the hook turned out as much as it will go and the hydrulic fluid is full. the mitchel has no info or even a decent pic and nither does my chilton and i cant find another convertable in my area to look at does anyone have a good pic of a working top or an idea. I think the previous owner must have bent somthing but i dont want to just start bending stuff till it works lol.

Another problem is the rear driver side window. The motor works i can hear it and when i pull it up manualy it will go down but not back up. So same problem again does anyone have a pic of the window track.

Last one is the car idles fine but in drive at idle say at a stop sign it will stall out or stutter i have to turn off the car wait a min the start it again it wont do this under accel just after and at idle but only in drive if i put in to nutral and come to a stop sign it wont do it oddly... it has a brand new Msd ignition coil distributer plugs wires and box so im thinking pump posibly filter?

any help much apreciated thx very much



found an anwser for #2
http://wiki.answers.com/Q/How_do_you_fix_the_rear_power_windows_on_a_1990_Le Baron_convertible


found an anwser for #3
from Ed Hennessy

(In response to someone whose Aries coughed, sputtered, and died sometimes when coming up to a stop sign - and sometimes recovered to a smooth idle. No computer codes were set.)
This is a classic symptom of a dead speed-distance sensor. The hall effect tends to fail only when hot and doesn't usually matter if you stop or not. It won't start that easily again until it cools. A bad speed sensor will stall the engine, but it will always fire right up immediately.
What happens with a bad speed sensor is that the computer can no longer tell that the car is moving or not, so it can't tell when to open the AIS motor so the motor will idle when you stop. So the engine spits, and sometimes the computer can catch it.
I have done 3 ('87 LeBaron K 2.5, '86 Reliant 2.5, '91 Acclaim 2.5) and none have ever set a code. Apparently, the signal was in range for the computer (so no code) but completely inappropriate for conditions. All three cars had the same symptoms as yours. The LeBaron was mine, and it had a digital dash. The digital speedo had erratic readouts as well.
You can check the sensor with an ohmmeter. Pull the sensor, and then connect the probes to the two terminals. You should see 8 pulses of zero resistance with infinite resistance in between. Anything else, and the sensor is bad. The LeBaron's had 8 zero pulses, with relatively high (but not infinite) resistance in between.



This was from Ed Hennessy of allpar.com

madmanmapper
03-04-2008, 05:51 PM
About the top, I'm assuming that you can still force it closed, otherwise, how would you drive? There are adjustments for the top in the back, on each of the vertical sides of the top. You have to peel off the interior liner from the back, it should only be held on by velcro. Once you have that peeled away, it will expose the frame of the top. You should see, on each side, a ridged metal plate about 1 inch by 5 inches long, with a couple of bolts holding on other little ridged plates, this is your adjustment device.

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