1997 Blazer Won't start

I had check engine light on, code P1345 means correlation fault between crank pos. sensor and cam shaft pos. sensor. I replaced the crank sensor and still had the problem (ran but service light on). Now it won't start at all, I drove it one day and went later to drive it and it wouldn't start. I have replaced the crank pos. sensor, camshaft pos. sensor, coil, ignition module, distributor cap, rotor. Checked and I have spark, I smell gas so I am pretty sure I have gas in the engine. I tried starting it with starting fluid and it still won't fire, It just cranks and cranks. Once in a while it will almost backfire when I let off the starter but not really. I checked the timing, it is right on. I don't know were to go from here. Did the computer go bad, I really don't want to replace that if it is still good $$$. I also replaced the battery, it was bad. Had to jump start it a lot could that have made the computer go bad? Please help...Ready to drive it over a cliff!!!

The timing is not adjustable.
Code P1345 is for camshaft retard setting.
Go easy on the starting fluid or you will blow the covers off of it.
Only use carb cleaner for a start aid to see if a fuel delivery problem.

Recheck for good spark to all spark plugs.
Make sure the dist rotor is turning.
What engine and engine code?
Check fuel pressure and post back fuel pressure readings.
Most of them you need 64-65 lbs of fuel pressure on a cold engine crank.
MT

You need to have the computer scanned again...the P1345 DTC basically says the camshaft & crankshaft reference points are not together . The distributor may not be in time or has a cracked starwheel or the timing chain may have slipped if the motor has many miles or the camshaft recently replaced.

Is the battery sufficiently charged? You might install a known good battery since you've been running the old one down.

You might try checking your fuel pressure...the specs are pretty exacting as MT2500 posted.

http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p288/Clunk_/Image026.jpg

Check for the following items:
• A loose CMP sensor causing a variance in the sensor signal
• Excessive free play in the timing chain and gear assembly
• An incorrectly installed distributor--1 tooth off in either the advance or the retard position
• A loose distributor rotor on the distributor shaft
• A loose or missing distributor hold down bolt

Sorry guys, I forgot...I have a 4.3L V6 Vortec engine w/ 145000 miles. I replaced the battery with a brand new one, now the code is erased because the battery was disconnected for so long. What is the cmp sensor, and where is it located? I haven't ever heard of that one. It is possible the distributor is installed wrong but I really don't think so. I pulled it last summer, forgot to mark it when I put it back in, found the #1 spark plug found top dead center, set the distributor to 1 and it dropped right in, didn't have any trouble with that. Yes the rotor turns, the distributor hold down bolt is not loose, I have spark on all the spark plugs and the coil. My sister had a blazer 1 year older and the fuel pump went out, we figured that out by using starting fluid, it would run but while we were spraying starting fluid in the carb. When I do that now to mine it doesn't do anything. My mind is boggled. Can the computer be causing the problem I am having? That is the only other thing I can think of. I read in the manual that the timing chain was not adjustable, it said to look at the sticker on the front of the engine, I did that and it says the timing is automatic. Any help would be greatly appreciative. It has 1 more day and it is going to the shop for them to figure out, this is my only vehicle and I can't keep relying of friends to bum a ride back and forth to work.

The timing is not adjustable.

But make sure the rotor and dist is still set in the right spot.
The dist gear can jump or the rotor come lose.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=51302

You need 60/66 lbs of fuel pressure .
What is yours?

You need compression.
What is your compression?
Are the plugs good and not gas fouled or wet?

You have a crankshaft sensor that sets the timing and trigers spark.
If you have good hot blue spark it is working.
Make sure it is getting to all plugs at the right time.http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=51302


code 1345 is the dist not set right or can be a dead camshaft sensor in the dist.

Pitch that starting fluid before you blow it or yourself up.

On use carb cleaner as a starting aid.

Okay guys, I did finally get it started!!! Thank God!!!
My service engine light is still on, I have an obd2 computer checker, it still says p1345, I told it to erase the code and it did then I restarted the thing, the light stayed off for a couple of seconds then it came back on. what do I need to do the make the light go off. I did figure out that I had the distributor in the wrong spot, I found top dead center and I was putting the distributor on #1 instead of the spot you guys showed me. I think that was one problem, I also replaced the cam shaft sensor, it did look worn and I also replaced the fuel filter, I think that was a problem too. Now I just need to get the light to go off. Thank you guys for all of your help, I really appreciate it. I couldn't have got it running without your help.

You are welcome and thanks for posting back how it went.

On the code P1345 you will have to find a repair shop or someone with a engine capable scannner. That will read and check and tell you where to reset the camshaft retard.
MT

P1345 indicates the distributor has been installed incorrectly. Its probablly still a tooth off but closer then before.
The procedure shown here is correct:
http://files.automotiveforums.com/gallery/showphoto.php?photo=51302
Possiblly you weren't exactly at TDC compression #1. Some of these Blazers had a timing mark on the balancer and timing cover. Lining these 2 marks up will so you are at the right spot. Hopefully you have those marks. Otherwise you'll have to play around a little bit.

Thank you guys again so very much, I went out and I couldn't find the marks you were talking about so I moved my distributor 1 tooth, and started it up, it started easier than it has started in a very very long time. My light is now off and it is running like a top. It cost me a lot of money but now I have the peace of mind knowing what I replaced and knowing that I shouldn't ever have to replace a lot of those things again. Thank You again...I appreciate all of your guys help!!!:runaround: