96 S10, fuel pump question

I tried a search here but didn't get any hits. So has anyone created an access hole in the floor to change out a fuel pump? The reason I ask is that I'm combat disabled and it would be a whole lot easier on this old body, even if it took longer than dropping the tank.

Some have but the best deal is remove the bed or drop the tank.
MT

Some have but the best deal is remove the bed or drop the tank.
MT

Thanks MT, I jacked it up this am and looked where the cut would be. And I may have to drop the tank as you said. Before I do though I have two further questions. I hate to be just a parts changer to find a problem and even though I have zero pressure at the engine and hear both relays clicking I want to check for 12 volts back at the pump. I thought there would be a connector back by the tank but can't find one. Is the harness plugged straight into the pump / sender unit?
What I did see was a copper ground strap that wasn't connected to anything which looks like it started out up by the filler neck. Could it be a simple ground problem?

Thanks MT, I jacked it up this am and looked where the cut would be. And I may have to drop the tank as you said. Before I do though I have two further questions. I hate to be just a parts changer to find a problem and even though I have zero pressure at the engine and hear both relays clicking I want to check for 12 volts back at the pump. I thought there would be a connector back by the tank but can't find one. Is the harness plugged straight into the pump / sender unit?
What I did see was a copper ground strap that wasn't connected to anything which looks like it started out up by the filler neck. Could it be a simple ground problem?

Yes the wiring plugs into top of tank at fuel pump module.
Yes it could be a ground problem.
Find and check all grounds.
Some ground on inside left frame rail.
The fuel pump and sending wiring plugs into the fuel pump are on top of the tank.

You need to check for fuel pump power on the gray wire and for gound on the black wires.
Jumper the gray wire with a fused 12 volt jumper and take a old type 12 volt bulb test light and check for ground on both black wires.

Is it a 4 cyl or V6 and if V6 what engine code? 8 diget in vin no?

It's a whole lot easier to lift the bed off- just 8 bolts and you can tip it- and disconnect filler tube neck- don't even have to unplug tailights if you don't want to -- this will allow you to sit upright and work on the fuel pump connections and removal etc...Also no need to drain the fuel tank- I'll do every pickup fuel pump this way-

I use an overhead chain hoist- and link into the four tie down hooks- if you remove the rear tailight wires- you can push the truck out from under the bed- it is up to you..

If the strap is not a black coated wire it is just a stacic ground for filler neck.
The fuel pump ground to frame will be a black coated electrical wire.
The fuel pump wiring should be running along the side of the frame at places where you can tap in to check voltage and ground.
But always seal them back up if you tap into them.
Good luck
MT

Sorry Guys, I should have known better. It's a 4.3 and a 4 dr Blazer. If it was a pickup I would pull the bed up in a heart beat, since with my condition I have a great cherry picker and an over head chain block in the garage.
The ground I saw broken must have been the filler static ground., braided copper. Since I really can't reach the module plug I'll probe the gray and black where I can reach it.
BTW this Blazer was the Girl friends and when she got a new car I told her to keep the blazer for the winter. As it turns out I have been using it most everyday and I'm starting to miss it already.

If a Blazer cutting a hole is not wise.
Check both black wires.
One is for fuel pump and one for fuel level sending unit.
Good Luck
MT