Replacing Head Gasket on 99 Rodeo


Bluesax
02-13-2008, 05:41 PM
HeyIsuzuites,
Can't seem to find the answer to my question searching so I'll ask for help direct. I need to change the head gasket on a 99 rodeo. In the Haynes manual, section 2-10, it gives steps for removing the head. If I understand the note in the instructions, I don't have to remove the manifolds, timing belt, camshafts, lifters, valve springs. But it then says to disregard any steps that "pertain to stripping the head." My question is, how many of the steps do I disregard? I'm pretty much stuck after step 3 (removing the alternator) and there's 17 more steps! Anyone who has done this, I Need Help!
Many thanks.

srpope80
02-14-2008, 10:17 AM
From the '00 Rodeo workshop manual:

Cylinder Head Assembly
Removal
1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Disconnect connector of intake air temperature
sensor from intake air duct.
3. Remove PCV hose from air intake duct.
4. Remove nut from air intake duct bracket and loosen
hose clamp on throttle body. Remove air intake duct
assembly with air cleaner cover.
5. Remove intake air duct bracket from cylinder head.
6. Drain engine coolant.
7. Move drive belt tensioner to loose side using wrench
then remove drive belt.
033RW001
8. Remove radiator upper hose from engine side.
9. Remove four nuts of exhaust front pipe.
10. Remove three bolts from generator bracket then
remove the generator with brackets.
065RW025
11. Disconnect crankshaft angle sensor connector.
12. Disconnect knock sensor connector.
13. Remove heater hose from adapter side.
14. Remove heater hose from water pipe side.
15. Remove water hose between water pipe and throttle
body.
16. Remove fuel pipe joint eye bolts from fuel rail
assembly and remove fuel pipe bracket with electric
ground cable.
042RW001
17. Disconnect connector for evaporation valve.
18. Remove canister hose.
19. Remove fixing nut of intake manifold stay from
cylinder block side.
025RW002
20. Remove two bolts from intake manifold for water pipe
support and remove cylinder head assembly.
21. Remove engine harness cover and disconnect three
connectors from chassis harness on left rear side
engine compartment.
22. Disconnect connector for power steering pump
pressure switch.
23. Remove four bolts and remove crankshaft pulley.
ENGINE MECHANICAL (X22SE 2.2L) 6A23
020RW014
24. Remove two bolts and nut then remove timing belt
front cover.
25. Remove ventilation hose from cylinder block side and
from cylinder head side.
26. Remove two bolts, ignition cable cover and remove
ignition cables from spark plug.
27. Disconnect camshaft angle sensor connector.
28. Remove ten bolts and remove cylinder head cover.
29. Remove fixing bolt of timing belt tensioner then
remove timing belt tensioner.
020RW010
30. Remove timing belt.
CAUTION:
 Do not bend or twist belt, otherwise its core could
be damaged. The belt should not be bent at a
radius less than 30 mm.
 Timing belt drive gear counterhold with J42620.
 Do not allow oil or other chemical substances to
come in contact with the belt. They will shorten
the life.
 Do not attempt to pry or stretch the belt with a
screw driver or any other tool during installation.
 Store timing belt in cool and dark place. Never
expose the belt direct sunlight or heat.
31. Remove two idle pulleys, the left side with idle pulley
bracket.
32. Remove two bolts and stud bolt and remove timing
belt rear cover.
33. Remove camshaft angle sensor
34. Disconnect engine oil pressure switch connector.
050RW005
35. Remove camshaft assembly exhaust side.
36. Use J42623 to remove ten cylinder head fixing bolts
012RW007
6A24 ENGINE MECHANICAL (X22SE 2.2L)
Installation
1. Put cylinder head gasket on the cylinder block.
012RW011
2. Install the cylinder head assembly, tighten cylinder
head bolts by four steps tightening method in the
following sequence to the specified torque.(use
J42623)
Torque: 25 Nm (18 lb ft) + 90 + 90 + 90
012RW006
3. Install camshaft assembly exhaust side and tighten
camshaft bracket bolts in the sequence to the
specified torque.
Torque: 8 Nm (5.9 lb ft)
015RW014
4. Connect engine oil pressure switch connector.
5. Install camshaft angle sensor.
6. Install the timing belt rear cover and tighten three
bolts to the specified torque.
Torque
M6 bolt: 6 Nm (4.4 lb ft)
M8 bolt: 8 Nm (5.8 lb ft)
020RW012
7. Install left side idle pulley with idle pulley bracket,
tighten to the specified torque and install right side
idle pulley and tighten to the specified torque.
Torque: 25 Nm (18 lb ft)
ENGINE MECHANICAL (X22SE 2.2L) 6A25
020RW016
8. Install timing belt tensioner then tighten it temporarily
until make alignment timing belt.
9. Install the cylinder head cover and tighten fixing bolt
temporally.
10. Install the timing belt and perform timing belt setting
procedure as follows.
1. Bring the engine top dead center No.1 cylinder
compression stroke by rotating the engine in the
direction of normal operation.
The engine is in this position when the notches on
the camshaft pulleys align with the marks on the
cylinder head cover(1), Check the crankshaft
pulley timing mark is aligned (2) also check for
water pump positioning ensure tabs are aligned
(3).
 Rotate the engine two full turns in the direction
of normal operation until the engine is again at
top dead centre, No.1 cylinder firing being
careful that all movement is in a clockwise
direction.
 If the engine is turned too far, do not turn
backwards, but continue to turn in the same
direction until the marks are again in line.
014RW067
014RW066
014RW063
2. Place J43037 to between intake and exhaust of
camshaft drive gear to prevent camshaft drive
gear movement during timing belt setting.
014RW065
6A26 ENGINE MECHANICAL (X22SE 2.2L)
3. Set the timing belt shown in the illustration,
ensure that tension side of the timing belt is taut
and move the timing belt tension adjustment lever
clockwise, until the pointer of the tensioner is
flowing.
014RW070
For used timing belt(over 60 minutes from new):
the pointer will be approx. 4 mm(0.16 in) to the left
of the center of the V notch when viewed from
the front of the engine.
014RW069
For new timing belt: The pointer must be at the
center of V notch when viewed from the front of
the engine.
014RW062
4. Tighten fixing bolt of timing belt tensioner to the
specified torque.
Torque: 25 Nm (18 lb ft)
020RW010
11.Tighten cylinder head cover to the specified torque.
Torque: 8 Nm (5.9 lb ft)
12. Connect camshaft angle sensor connector.
13. Install the ignition cable to spark plug.
14. Install ignition cable cover and tighten two bolts.
Torque: 3 Nm (2 lb ft)
15. Install ventilation hoses to cylinder block side and
cylinder head side.
16. Install timing belt front cover and tighten two bolts to
the specified torque.
Torque: 6 Nm (4.4 lb ft)
ENGINE MECHANICAL (X22SE 2.2L) 6A27
17. Install crankshaft pulley and tighten four bolts.
Torque: 20 Nm (14 lb ft)
020RW014
18. Connect connector for power steering pump pressure
switch.
19. Connect engine harness connector to chassis
harness of the left rear of engine compartment and
install engine harness cover.
20. Install two bolts to intake manifold for water pipe
support.
21. Install fixing nut of intake manifold stay to cylinder
block.
025RW002
22. Install canister hose.
23. Connect connector for evaporation valve.
24. Install fuel pipe joint eye bolts to fuel rail assembly and
install fuel pipe bracket with electric ground cable.
Torque: 25 Nm (18 lb ft)
042RW001
25. Install water hose between water pipe and throttle
body.
26. Install heater hose to water pipe side.
27. Install heater hose to adapter side.
28. Connect knock sensor connector.
29. Connect crankshaft angle sensor connector.
30. Install generator with bracket and tighten three bolts.
Torque
35 Nm (25 lb ft) for Long bolt
20 Nm (14 lb ft) for Short bolt
065RW025
6A28 ENGINE MECHANICAL (X22SE 2.2L)
31. Install exhaust front pipe to exhaust manifold and
tighten four nuts to the specified torque.
Torque: 25 Nm (18 lb ft)
027RW005
32. Install radiator upper hose to engine.
33. Move drive belt tensioner to loose side using wrench
then install the drive belt to normal position.
033RW001
34. Install intake air duct bracket to cylinder head.
35. Install air intake duct assembly with air cleaner cover
to throttle body and tighten nut to the air intake duct
bracket then tighten hose clamp.
Torque
7 Nm (5.1 lb ft) for nut
3 Nm (2.2 lb ft) for hose clamp bolt
36. Install PCV hose to air intake duct.
37. Connect connector of intake air temperature sensor
on intake air duct.
38. Connect battery ground cable.
39. Fill engine coolant to full level in the engine coolant
reservoir tank.

Bluesax
02-14-2008, 03:36 PM
beautiful. This is the instruction I was looking for. Thanks. I have run into one problem already. I've removed the brackets from the alternator but the bottom bolt doesn't want to come out. I can turn it with a lot of effort but it just won't back out and is very hard to turn. Any thoughts? Thanks again.

Ramblin Fever
02-14-2008, 03:54 PM
It would help, maybe, to know which engine.

I don't think there have been too many head gasket replacements on the 3.2L V6 engine, so I can't help you there, but you might get more responses if you list your engine.

FL 3.2L
02-14-2008, 05:08 PM
beautiful. This is the instruction I was looking for. Thanks. I have run into one problem already. I've removed the brackets from the alternator but the bottom bolt doesn't want to come out. I can turn it with a lot of effort but it just won't back out and is very hard to turn. Any thoughts? Thanks again.

PB Blaster, and don't break it!

Bluesax
02-15-2008, 12:19 PM
Will try it. What's making it hang up like that? Never seen a bolt that would back out after 'breaking' it loose. Thanks for the tip. Oh, and it's a 2.2L 4-cylinder engine.

coldday
02-19-2008, 12:10 AM
bottom bolt on the alt has a nut on the backside you need to hold w/ a wrench...

Bluesax
02-19-2008, 01:34 PM
There's no nut that I can see or feel. I've tried PB Blaster and heated the bolt. Still just turns and doesn't want to back out. Next question. Can I replace the gasket without taking off the alternator? Thanks

Bluesax
02-19-2008, 06:07 PM
Okiay, found the nut and removed the alternator. Thanks, Coldday. Next up, fuel rail and injectors. I don't have to remove the timing belt, do I?

coldday
02-19-2008, 11:38 PM
congrats on the nut finding :) afraid that is the tip of the iceburg...

you're in for a heck of job, yeah, you're going to have to take the timing belt off, and you're even going to have to remove the driver side camshaft in order to get to the head bolts on that side :headshake fabulous design isn't it! Just take it easy, go slow, and mark everything as you take it off so you know where to put it all back. exhaust manifold going to have to come off. of course too, fuel lines then rail (watch for pressured gasoline to spray out! be cautious) intake manifold, etc. etc. etc.....

I replaced my head w/ a rebuilt so I had a little more to take off... but you've got enough to do for sure. good luck man. Been almost a year, so I'm a little rusty, but I did it 2x (long story)...

Bluesax
02-20-2008, 10:11 AM
Coldday,
Yeah, you ain't kidding. My brother and I spent three hours yesterday taking it apart down to the fuel rail. Like you say, numbering everything and laying it out to put back in order. Couple of things though. Haynes book says that if you're just replacing the gasket, you can lift off the head and manifolds together. You say no? And how do you unplug those electrical connectors to the injectors? The ones that have the light blue tab? They don't seem to budge and I don't want to jerk anything. Any ideas? Thanks again.
James

coldday
02-20-2008, 11:05 AM
by all means, please follow the manual vs. me... that's great if you don't have to remove the manifolds, save you some $ on gaskets :)

There are clips on the injector connections, need to lift up the clips as you pull straight out. don't remember if there are clips on both sides, but might be one on top and bottom.

Bluesax
02-21-2008, 08:34 AM
Took off the valve cover and found all four plugs swimming in oil. never seen anything like it. Is this an indication of something else or will cleaning it all up and finishing the gasket job be okay? Also, is it a good idea to replace the injectors? How do I check the condition of them? Sorry about all the questions. Thanks

coldday
02-21-2008, 11:23 AM
I'd not mess w/ the injectors unless you were having a problem with them to begin with, they are expensive $$$$$$$$$$$. When you take them out w/ the fuel rail, be really careful with the ends, I put some aluminum foil over all four to keep any dirt out.

If the plugs had oil on top of them, it might be that your valve cover gasket was leaking into the plug channel area? Just a guess. Not sure how else oil could end up there, nothing else comes to mind. You'll need a new valve cover gasket anyway, so something to keep an eye on. I'm not a mechanic ,or anything close so, maybe someone will have a different thought on that.

cmladue
02-22-2008, 12:21 AM
yea if your plugs are swimming in oil u will need a new valve cover gasket set. if i was you i would buy a whole head gasket set that will come with all the gaskets u need. the injectors if the are the one im thinking of u just push in the sides and lift. then be very carefull pulling them out u dont wanna ruin the gaskets. and u might as well get a new timing belt and a new water pump too

Bluesax
02-22-2008, 09:17 AM
Thanks cmladue,
I did get the gasket kit and I'm almost down to the head. But I can't get the crankshaft pully off (no chain wrench and the little bolts want to round every time I put the ratchet to them) and I have no idea what size the 10 star bolts are for the head. Who designed THIS puppy? Thanks again.

rambo1214
02-23-2008, 10:37 PM
Just got done with this job today on my 2.2L 99 Rodeo. In the kit of torques i was using the largest one was the size I had to use. You will want to use an angle gauge for the reinstall of the head bolts as it's hard to get them down right with a regular torque wrench. easiest way to do this and do it right is to take everything off of the head and get the head pressure tested just to make sure that the head did not get warped. Once that is done you'll want to reinstall the head pressure test done in Beavercreek OH cost me 80 dollars money well spent to make sure it's a one time job. I had to remove both manifolds and the EGR. Make sure you have the correct gasket for the EGR because if you dont expect to loose a gallon of antifreeze before you even get a bolt in. Your oil in your spark plugs is from a bad valve cover gasket I've gotten that on the last gasket covered every spark plug from the top with oil. The best investment you will ever make is to buy the inverse torques and a set of torques sockets because that's all of the major bolts on this truck. Oh yeah and this motor is actually a Chevy motor used in the daewoos as well. The crankshaft pully may be stuck like mine was the only thing i can suggest on that is to ignore the bolts and take them off after the pully is off. The pully is only attachted to the crank sprocket. So if you remove the bolt int he center the whole combo will come off. Then once it's off you can soak it in wd40 while you take apart everything else then come back the bolts should move for you.

FL 3.2L
02-24-2008, 10:18 AM
My apologies. Looks like there have been some changes in the 4 cylinder since my edition of the Haynes...

Bluesax
02-25-2008, 12:20 PM
I want to thank everybody for the help. This job is frustrating as hell and I would have given up without some tips, etc. So, I was away from the car for the weekend and just got back to it this morning. First thing, I can't see how to get the water pump out. It's supposed to have bolts but I dont see them. The new one doesn't have holes for bolts and all I see is another of those star bolts with a washer that looks like it MIGHT hold the pump in place. Makes no sense to me. Then, there's the camshaft pully, exhaust side. I can't get that bolt, star of course, to move. Rambo. I'll take off the manifolds and EGR (do I replace it?) but what are inverse torques? Is that what I've been calling the 'star' bolts? Already bloodied a knuckle and my thumb this morning. Back in the swing. Thanks again.

Bluesax
02-26-2008, 07:26 PM
Well, I thought I had it and then hit the wall. Can't seem to get the bolts on the camshafts to move and they are starting to strip. Same with one of the small bolts I need to get out to remove the cover over the water pump. Is there any OTHER way to get the camshafts out? Man, this is rough!

Bluesax
03-11-2008, 03:05 PM
Back at it again and need HELP! I put the new timing belt on and was turning the crankshaft with a breaker bar to line up the pulley/valve cover marks when it just stopped. It turned a little bit and then, nowhere. I've tried to turn it with the car in neutral and in gear but it won't budge. All I can think of is that the exhaust camshaft didn't seem like it went back in the same way it came out but it all fit together with no problem. Now this. What should I be doing? Thanks.

James
99 Rodeo, 2.2, 4-cylinder, 5-speed

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