Okay... here goes:
1994 Caprice Classic with a "350"
Minimal Rust.
140,000 miles.
Interior great.
But... it side swiped a pole wrecking everything behind the rear wheel on the passenger side. Right frame rail slightly bent under the trunk. Still drives fine.
Asking price: $200

I'm not too familiar with "bubble" or "bath tub" Caprices so...

My questions... I was considering either making it a winter beater, or parting it out. Would it be worth it for either? I'm sure I could make the money back in parts and then some. Also is it a 350 or an LT1? Oh and what tranny generally comes with this model '94 Caprice?

Thanks in advance everyone!

An LT1 is a 350. If it's a 5.7, it's an LT1. Transmission is a 4L60E.

For $200, it would be worth it for the powertrain alone.

Swap the powertrain!

Thats an option I'm definately considering... engine and tranny together. Now, I'm probably wrong, but I thought I remember reading here at AF that there was some sort of difference between a conventional post-'87 350 and an LT1 (ie. coolant flow, aluminum heads as opposed to cast iron, etc.)

Thats an option I'm definately considering... engine and tranny together. Now, I'm probably wrong, but I thought I remember reading here at AF that there was some sort of difference between a conventional post-'87 350 and an LT1 (ie. coolant flow, aluminum heads as opposed to cast iron, etc.)

Yes, the LT1 and L99 engines are considered "Generation II" as opposed to "Generation I", anything pre-LT1 small block. Heads and block are not interchangeable, nor is the intake, with anything other than another Gen II engine. These engines use "reverse cooling", meaning the heads get the cooled radiator water before the block does, which is the opposite of the normal style. This allows 10.4:1 compression with cast iron heads! The heads on the B-body LT1 variant are cast iron, while all other LT1s use aluminum heads. The cast iron heads actually flow a tick more air than the aluminum ones do - they're preferable from a performance standpoint and are also the basis for the later 'Vortec' heads (which fit Gen I blocks).

You can still use your old radiator as the flow through the radiator is the same. If you consider the swap, it's a lot of work - you'll want the fuel tank and pump (and all associated wiring) as well as the engine, transmission, PCM and all associated wiring and sensors.

Swap the powertrain!

LT1 in a boxer style, now that's sexy :grinyes:

I really appreciate the help guys... I'm more of an old school guy, so I'm gonna have to familiarize myself with newer stuff, anyway... I'm aware of the work involved... I have a Gen I TBI setup ready to go in the ol' boxy now, but if it'd be more worth it to throw in a complete LT1 setup then it's something I'll seriously consider, but I want to think future now. It's somewhat high mileage, so if I did this, I'm seeing a rebuild in the next few years. Is it more difficult and more expensive to rebuild and "build up" a Gen II 350 (LT1) as opposed to a Gen I 350? Also, I forgot to look, but I will this weekend... is a '94 LT1 T.B.I. or M.P.I.? Oh and uh, one last thing... I'm 99% sure it's an LT1, but what should I look for in the V.I.N. to tell me for 100% that it is? Is it still the 8th digit?

8th digit= engine id :thumbsup:

LT1 is a graduated TPI (tuned port injection LB9-305 and L98-350). I know I'll catch flack for saying that but hey. :P

I would do the LT1 over the TBI anyday. Much better power and fuel economy. Parts are readily availabe. You'll need to swap over the engine mgmt, which is the only sucky part to this, that later half of 94 through 96 is the OBDI-hybrid era, and they require a OBDII scanner that is hybrid capable, or a suitbale laptop program and cable.

Oh, and the fuel system will need upgrading to a electric pump and new lines to handle the incresed psi demands.

Will a fuel pump/sending unit for the '94 fit right in my '84 fuel tank? Also... assuming the PCM is the OBD-1 Hybrid, after and engine build, can it be reprogrammed via laptop for the modified engine?

The LT1 is a great engine that catches a lot of flak for being a little different than a gen 1 and not being a gen 3. It is the bastard child of the smallblock Chevys.

The rotating assembly is basically the same as Gen 1 motors just high quality.

They respond wonderfully to modification and the 94-5 PCMs are arguably the cheapest and easiest OEM pcm to modify, yes flashable with a laptop and the software is only $90.

The L99 and LT1 look identical, LT1 was VIN "P" the L99 VIN "W" it is a 4.3L V8.

The b-body LT1 is 10:1 compression with iron heads abd runs wonderfully on 87 octane.

Verify it is an LT1 car and snap it up. I do not know a lot about the swap but it is not that bad since it is basically just a tweaked gen 1 motor, I think the big issue is you will have to dent or notch your front crossmember for the AC compressor. Once it is in though I can help you get the most from it.

My basically stock wagon with a base curb weight of 4672lbs ran 15.5 at 88mph the one night I ran it and beat a '04 Impala SS with the blown 3.8L.

I think the big issue is you will have to dent or notch your front crossmember for the AC compressor. Once it is in though I can help you get the most from it.


What do you mean front crossmember?

Overall, if I do this (assuming I get the car), I'll be getting myself into a whole new world of engines. I'm actually kind of excited. I'll be going this weekend to take the car for a test drive to see how the power/drive train is. I still have some more questions now that I think about it, sorry but like I said, I'm not all that familiar with the newer style Caprices yet. Will the 4L60/4L60-E fit in the place of the TH-700 R4 without needing to change/modify the driveshaft and crossmember? I know its they're basically the same transmission, but I've never dealt with a 4L60 before. The only "4L" series trannies I've ever worked with was a 4L80-E. And, last, but certainly not least, the speedometer. Is there any type of insert or something I can purchase to retrofit a speedometer cable onto the 4L60/4L60-E?

You've dealt with a 4L60 before.

GM began using the new nomenclature around 1987, though the 4L60 name wasn't widely known until 1993 (the year the electronic, or "E" version came out).

The 4L60 is simply a TH700R4, renamed. Personally, I refer to any 1986-1/2 - up transmission as a 4L60, the reason being that halfway through the 1986 model year, the transmission received an auxiliary valve body - whose sole purpose in life is to soften the reverse/drive engagement by adding an accumulator to the main pressure line. Without this, the earlier transmission tended to simply 'pop' into gear, which was quite jarring and could lead to component failure.

On any of the TH700R4/4L60/E (single piece case, non-PWM) transmissions, you should be able to use the speedometer cable fine, although you may have to do some tailshaft modification on an "E" in order to get the speedo drive gear on.

Oh, see I wasn't sure exactly how different they actually were from one another. So, since they are all basically the same tranny, couldn't I take the tailshaft off the existing 700-R4 in my boxy and bolt it in place of the tail shaft of the 4L60 (or 4L60-E) from the bubblemobile without a problem? I also spoke to my transmission guy quite a while ago, but for some reason just remembered this... he told me that in the event that I re-gear the rear end, new gears can be ordered for the tail's speedo cable to keep the speedometer accurate. Which actually brings me to yet another question... generally speaking, what rear end usually comes with a civi LT1 Caprice and will it fit the boxy style Caprice? I'm almost sure it's an open differential, but I'm wondering what gears to expect.

Rear end will bolt right in - it should be an 8.5 w/ 2.93:1 gears.

The tail shaft will likely need to be replaced with an earlier one - this requires removal and disassembly of the transmission. You're thinking of the tailshaft extension housing - I am talking about the shaft itself. It has the reaction (output) planetary ring gear as an integral part of it - this has the notches for the parking pawl on it.

8.5 thing sounds good, but for only .20 more gears it doesn't seem worth it to swap it out especially since it will mismatch bolt patterns with the front. I guess what I was asking before about the tail shaft is would the tail from an 1985 TH700-R4 fit onto a 4L60/4L60-E? How far in depth do I have to tear apart the transmission for that? I've taken apart transmissions before, but never with the intention of putting them back together. (Blown ones. Scap aluminum shell.)

Since the output shaft and the reaction ring gear are the same unit, you'd have to remove the planetary gearset, which involves removing the front pump and all clutches (except the ones behind the reaction ring).

While you have it apart, take the reaction sun shell in it and throw it in the trash. Buy a Beast to put in its place.

So if I have to take the clutches out, should I just replace those as well, since I'm in there?

It wouldn't hurt!

The biggest thing you will need is a C-clip expander for the clip that holds the input planet assembly in place.

By front crossmember I mean the front frame part that runs under the engine between the front suspension.

All the LT1 accessories run up the passenger side of the engine. The AC is basically at damper level, the PS above it and the alternator above that. I suppose you could try and reuse existing accessories BUT without the belt driven WP at the center of it all I don't know how easy that would be.

There was a guy who had modified an LT1 to work in a 1991 Chevy truck, he made his own accessory mounts. This kept the serpentine setup with the stock water pump, and allowed him to mount an AC compressor on the driver side.

As for the clearance of the compressor, I don't think there will be a problem with that. I've seen where the compressor is mounted on a factory LT1 setup, and on the older, pre-1989 multi-belt system the smog pump is mounted in the same location on the passenger side, damper level. There's plenty of clearance with the frame. The biggest issue, I think, is getting the hoses to work on the new location.

The AC compressor is a lot deeper than a A.I.R. pump. The notching comment comes from what guys with TBI early 90s cars have found.

I've seen several LT1 swaps into the older b-bodies. None of them required cutting the crossmember. Remember guys, these are the same frames 77-96.

Basically the same frames not exactly.

I am not saying it will be a huge amount just saying be prepared to have to create a little extra clearance, a BFH might even do it.