Geo not shifting


shortcircuit
02-03-2008, 03:15 AM
After my confusing first post thought i would try this again thanks.I have a 93 geo 1 litre 3 cyl automatic it has suddenly decided not to shift through gears.Can do manually any idea's is there a relay or something ?.Any help appreciated.

hot_sd
02-04-2008, 01:27 AM
I would start by disconnecting all the electrical connectors going to the trans and cleaning the contacts. There should be 3 connectors - one large one with several wires (range switch connector), the circular white one (shift solenoid connector) and the small white one (VSS). Also check for broken wires, frayed wires and anything else that could mess up the shift solenoid signals from the TCM.

shortcircuit
02-04-2008, 07:31 PM
Hi hot_sd thank you kindly for your reply!.I have other problems that seem to all have occured at once but will stay on topic here.All connectors look good plugged unplugged them no wires frayed.I have a Haynes manual in front of me i see no mention of a TCM trans control module.I do see mention of ECM is that same thing?.The one above fuse box under dash goldish in colour.Is that not just for emission stuff.I may try going to wreckers tomorrow and see what i can get,,,would it have to be from same year and be an automatic model.

hot_sd
02-05-2008, 03:03 AM
I'm not familiar with older Metros - I have a 2000 and in mine the ECM and TCM are a single unit. However, I understand that older models have a separate TCM. I'm not sure where that is located - you could try seeing if you can spot where the wiring from the transmission goes.

In general if you can shift manually but there is no automatic shifting the problem is in the TCM or a sensor signal that is needed by the TCM to provide the upshift/downshift signals.

The other possibility is a faulty shift solenoid inside the transmisssion but it is unlikely that both solenoids (second brake and direct clutch) would have failed at the same time.

shortcircuit
02-08-2008, 10:23 PM
Check out this thread and you will see numerous problems i was having when i was getting no crank http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=886267

Thanks hot_sd for replying to my question and your input.You were right there is a seperate ECM and TCM the TCM is located above the gas pedal under the dash.I kinda gave up on fixing myself as i did everything i could think of.Checked all grounds i could see and cleaned them up.Checked all fuses and circuit breakers i could find.Unplugged every connector i seen and replugged.

Went to the wreckers and found one dead it was standard mines auto it had 320,000 kilometres on it.Didn't really know what i wanted off it so went away empty handed LOL.

At this point i had replaced starter and solenoid and that seemed to fix the no crank problem it was starting and driving.The problem was i was getting no blinkers and was not automatically shifting had to do manually.The 4 way flashers were working fine.Made up my mind needed to see a mechanic.That is when the fun started,,,ohh i might add almost got rear ended when a mighty SUV came flying up behind me when attempting to make a right turn no blinkers was a little scary.

The first mechanic was quite helpfull over the phone instructing me what to look for.When i inquired as to me bringing it over to his shop for him to take a look maybe tomorrow response was oh way to busy and wouldn't be able to do anything till a weeks hence 7 days.Oh OK.The next place i drove over there he too was pretty sure he did not want to look at it.Was quoting me in the 3 to 4 hr range without even looking.And he was not really interested at looking at my baby.And was suggesting a specialist but did not know who!!.

A customer was paying his bill when he did not know who that specialist might be.He said he used to have a swift bought it from a guy that owned a bunch of these cars but that was 9 yrs ago.Gave me his name,i called him he is old now with several ailments.He gave me the name of a place in town well actually outside town never heard of.Extreme Motorsports and man i am so glad he did went over there and said sure bring it in in the morning.So happens one of the mechanics drives a nice swift....one the old guy i called sold to him.

Got a call the next day she gave me the bad news first.The rot above the control arm drivers side makes the car unsafe.The good news it was a fuse i had checked them visually twice not under the best condition though.Was doing a little metro yoga haha and the old eyes aren't the best now.Grand total 40 bucks not bad at all and seen the fuse lying on my mat but did not talk to mechanic he had went to lunch.

I am having a hard time believing it was just a fuse [i checked them twice] that was causing no blinkers an no shifting.Do ya think he may have pulled a magic trick and just said it was a fuse not wanting to divulge any trade secrets??.

Anyways i am a happy guy and got off cheap at a talented shop they are just starting into motor building now.The moral of this long post triple check your fuses or even replace them with new ones is my thought.

I have a lead on another one young fella was going through hard times and was driving a later model metro standard.His mom wants him to get rid of it cause he bought a new truck and does not want it cluttering the driveway he is back on his feet.Something like 120,000 kilometres i might be able to pick it up for 100 dollars american i hear so the saga continues.

Sorry again for long post cheers!

dwendt1978
02-08-2008, 11:26 PM
FIRST THING IS CHECK THE FLUID LEVEL. Check for any funny color or odor. See if it has bubbles on the dipstick.

Check the Throttle valve cable. If those check out then read on.

If it shifts manually and not automatic it's definitly related to the governor.
On alot of Ford's they gum up a bit and a cure that sometimes works to un-stick them is to start the car and shift from 1st to 2nd to 3rd to Rev and back rather rapidly. Slow enough though that you can feel the tranny engage.

If it's an electronic governor than that's called the VSS or TPS can't quite remember proper term.

But a stuck governor sounds like the problem.

leonbentz
02-09-2008, 12:23 AM
This is a very important message:

If you ever change your ECM, make sure you stay with the same model and serial numbers. Each of those ECM's are proprietary to the current layout of the wiring harness of the time and the current drive train hardware. Most likely, it may be something in your transmission. Check and make sure the fluid level is correct and the fluid is not a "burnt" look. It wouldn't hurt to change the oil and filter, either.

Linkage adjustment is another place to look too.

Good luck. I hope this helps.:smokin:

hot_sd
02-09-2008, 01:36 AM
Good to hear that the problem was tracked down - you post is not very clear to me but it sounds like it has been fixed. It sounds like the fuse sending power to the range switch must have gone out so the TCM did not know what range the selector was in, in order to provide the shift signals. I'm a bit suprised that the same fuse is also used for the turn indicators but maybe that's the case - I will check the wiring diagram on the factory service manual when I have some time.

Much easier to use a multimeter to check the fuses.

FIRST THING IS CHECK THE FLUID LEVEL. Check for any funny color or odor. See if it has bubbles on the dipstick.


If the fluid level was low it will not shift either automatically or manually. In this case manual shifting was available.

Check the Throttle valve cable. If those check out then read on.

The throttle valve in electronically controlled transmissions are only used to generate boost pressure. It does not control shifting - the TCM does that. In older hydraulic only transmissions the valve body also was the TCM.

Here is a picture in case anyone is interested of what the throttle valve looks like. I took this while rebuilding the valve body on my metro.

http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/bb240/rperinpa/mx17_valve_body_1.jpg

But a stuck governor sounds like the problem.

In the metro there is a VSS - no mechanical governor.

shortcircuit
02-10-2008, 01:44 PM
If you ever change your ECM, make sure you stay with the same model and serial numbers. Each of those ECM's are proprietary to the current layout of the wiring harness of the time and the current drive train hardware.

Good to know thanks.

Good to hear that the problem was tracked down - you post is not very clear to me but it sounds like it has been fixed.
Yea it is fixed thanks for input.

I'm a bit suprised that the same fuse is also used for the turn indicators but maybe that's the case - I will check the wiring diagram on the factory service manual when I have some time.

Me too that's why i mentioned maybe he used some voodoo.I diddn't want to appear as i was going in blind left Haynes manual on seat.And various relays i had changed on floor.Would be nice if you could check that out.

Was no blinkers and transaxle was not getting signal to shift.Was a 10 amp fuse on box cover it mentions i think left headlight and something else.

The whole mess was very confusing happened all at once.And i am pretty new at posting on forums a bit of a noob.In fact this will be the first times i have used quotes. :)

Nice Pic, I love the way Dr Bill has made full use of pictures a whole world of difference.

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