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1994 Bonneville Will Start, But Won't Stay Running


graymist5
02-01-2008, 08:48 PM
I just replaced my fuel pump, and stopped to get brakes for my car, and decided to change out the vacuum lines while I was at the parts store. Now I cannot get it to stay running(it's stuck at the store). I can get it to fire, and runs for about 3 seconds, then it dies out. If you spray carb cleaner in the intake, it will run for about 10 seconds before shutting down. I am at wits end, and the employees weren't much help. I tried putting the old vacuum lines back on, but that didn't work either. I have some pressure in the fuel line, because it sprays when I press the release valve on the line. Not sure why it is dying though, and I gotta get it moved. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

HotZ28
02-02-2008, 08:34 AM
Did you check the large vacuum line going to the power brake booster? Sometimes the hose is knocked off while working in that area.

graymist5
02-02-2008, 02:08 PM
OK. I just went up to the parts store to check on the car and troubleshoot, and I tried to fire it first, and it fired right up. It stuttered a bit, i'm guessing because of the carb cleaner sprayed in it last night, but then ran fine. Not sure what would have caused that, but for now it seems to be fine. Thanks for the help, and I will check back to see if there is anymore help to keep this from happening.

graymist5
02-07-2008, 05:42 PM
It's back. I got the car home, and it has been running rough, but running none the less. I changed the spark plugs, and wires, and added some fuel injector cleaner to the tank. Drove it home, and it won't stay running again. It runs as long as I spray carb cleaner in the intake, but dies right after. Again it will fire everytime i turn the ignition off, then start it, but only runs for about 3 seconds, then dies. If I turn the ignition off, then crank again, it fires, then dies. I also have to pump the gas when starting, because it won't fire up otherwise. Thanks in advance for the help.

graymist5
02-07-2008, 06:35 PM
after an hour seaching on here, I decided I would play with the car some more. I have found that the reason it dies when I start it is because I rev it real high, trying to keep it running. This time I decided to keep the rpms low, and it stayed running. but, when I get it to 300 rmps, it dings 4 times, and loses power, but then gets it right back after it drops below 300 rpms. I don't try to "romp" it, becausr it dies completely, no saving it. It does it at exactly 300, every time, not moving or anything, still in park. Any ideas? It fires everytime, and runs. just can't get past that one thing. I am going to attemp a trip around the block, keeping the rpms low, and will see if the 3000 rpms changes at all. All the other posts I have read about this problem, say it's random, and also say it is the fuel pump. I can't believe it would be the brand new one I just put in it. Please Help, my wifes car is about to die, and this will be our only transportation. Thanks Again.

jdq
02-08-2008, 12:06 PM
Do you have the SES light on.You could take out the IAC valve and clean it and maf sensor (clean carefully with alcohol and qtip).

buddylov
02-09-2008, 05:27 AM
Hello Everyone just want to take a few minute to say thank's to all who took part in helping me get my car back on the road.. would like to explain all deteal on what took part trying to get this bonni running. first i have spent alot of money changing all the part in the engine like new plug and wires 2- new cam shaft sensor 3- new crankshaft position sensor,4, new vacuum line.5-new oil seal.6 new water pump and seal.7- all new relays on the fire wall.8- a new homanic balancer. finialy i went on e-bay and bought a obd1 and 2 scanner from actron for about $146.00 dollars plus 16.00 dollars for shipping, by the way, it got here fast. went to check on the computer for my bonni but couldn't get a reading, but the scanner on my 1988 ford ranger and i could read from the computer. so guess what guys? i went to the junk yard and bought a computer for about $69.00 plus tax. well change the computer and install the battery wait for 15 minute so that the new computer can do it's seft programming. after 15 minute i hook up the obd 1 and 2 scanner and was able to read from the the computer. I then started the engine up and it's running. took it for a drive and it runs like a baby. again thank you all for you're help in getting my bonni running. hope this will help other in the future.... ;) :) let's keep this form running. i still have a little problem with a fuse. i have a remote control for the car when i bought it. i have notice that the remote control only operate the truck and not the doors. well i check the fuse box that's next to the passenger side where the computer is. i found a bad fuse and change it but the fuse keep blowing up. i know there is a short somewhere. i think this is the remote control for the doors. can anyone help me on trobleshooting this short? again thank you.

buddylov
02-12-2008, 04:02 AM
good morning hotz28. have a little problem with my door. i have a remote control to open the door, however i have found a blown fuse inside the car on the passenger side. i have replace it but keep burning up. i know this belone to the electroinc door couse it say it. how can i go on troble shooting this. i have check the door button it work.. i can hear a noise when i push the power door swith.. can you help me on this .... thank's

HotZ28
02-12-2008, 08:33 PM
Unfortunately, this kind of problem can be very difficult and frustrating to troubleshoot, even for an experienced automotive electrical technician. Skilled technicians, have found that most problems like this tend to be the result of fairly simple causes such as loose or corroded connectors, bad grounds, or damaged wire insulation that result in a short to ground. Knowing this, the technician first makes a careful visual inspection of all components before and during testing, to speed up and simplify the troubleshooting process. (Always check the obvious before assuming something complicated is the cause).

You really need a vehicle specific electrical FSM to check out all the circuits. IIRC, the door lock fuse also provides power for the power antenna, rear defogger, power windows and rear cigarette lighters in the doors, just to name a few! Check the rear lighters first to see if one is stuck down, (if your car has them), or if they have anything metallic in the socket that would ground the circuit. I have heard of kids dropping coins in the lighter sockets, solely for entertainment purposes. :eek7:
Next, check the power antenna circuit, for a ground; better yet, disconnect the terminal in the trunk and see if you still blow the door lock fuse. In addition, you should check the circuit breakers for the power door locks and power windows that is located in the fuse panel. Last, but not least, the door lock solenoids could be at fault here. :uhoh:

graymist5
03-02-2008, 01:48 PM
Even though my thread has multiple people in it now, just wanted to let everyone know what happened. I had it towed to Pontiac, and after 4 days, they replaced the computer, and put a factory fuel pump on it, and now it runs like a champ.

Mickey#1
03-02-2008, 02:29 PM
Thanks for letting us know. A fuel pump & computer from the dealer - that had to hurt. $$$

phill815
05-21-2008, 02:30 PM
im pretty much having the same problem but im able to get code 12 out of the obd I system does that matter or is that saying the computer is good ????

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