When I shift from park to drive, the truck really jumps. The transmission was rebuilt about 2 years ago, maybe 12k or so, by the previous owner at a local transmission shop that's since gone out of business.

I'd hate for this to cause problems in the transmission, especially since it's rebuilt, and especially if it's something that could be a short quick adjustment.

Any thoughts?

More info below... thanks guys...

OK, so I took it in to get checked out at a local transmission shop before we move next week. The truck will be towing an enclosed 20' trailer.

The symptoms are as listed above - truck "jumps" when put into drive or reverse from park, plus when you're giving it a lot of gas (accelerating or going uphill) it shifts a little hard. The rebuild shop owner closed up as he sold the property, so no warranty service. ESC was changed shortly after transmission was rebuilt.

I don't know how to adjust the throttle valve, which is what one guy recommended to me locally. Could this be a problem?

First shop says he's seeing some silicone in the fluid, and it's $400 to drop the transmission and figure it out. No thanks, off for a second opinion.

Second shop (not transmission shop) says the following:

Pressures are low, could be a pump or clutch. Either way, replace it.
Metal is in the fluid. Replace it. $2k.
They didn't check codes.

I'm going to check it out with a "reputable" transmission shop tomorrow. I don't know what they could say that would save the transmission but I need to ask around here to see if I'm missing something to save me $2k.

Good proper testing by a good repair shop.
No TV cable or adjustments on them anymore.
One key to problem may be how much metal in fluid.
If a hole lot it is done for.
It is normal to have just a little stuff on the pan magnet.
A good Transmission/engine capable scanner will help find the problem.
The 96 had some VCM wiring problems.
Do you best on finding a good repair shop.

Let us know it the find any codes and post back code no.
And Good Luck.

Check around Ask around
Word of mouth.
Family friends coworkers neighbors business people and delivery people.
Mailmen and parcel delivery people get around and notice a lot of stuff.
Even a good parts house knows what shops are good and not good.
Chamber of commerce and better business bureau and city hall.
If you find a good referral to a repair shop go look them over and talk to them.
Look for a clean looking busy place with nice people running it.
Ask a few questions and ask about their qualifications and training.
Not all places have trained tech/mechanics.
If they do not find a place that does.
Even all dealers do not have all trained techs/mechanics.

Initial phone call from the transmission place is the transmission is OK, the shifting is actually pretty good for a rebuild and shifting out of park is acceptable.

They're checking the pressures this afternoon per my request. I'm happy to pay a $75 fee for that, this shop seems to be legit as they could easily have told me I needed a new transmission but instead have told me it's OK.

I don't want to find a problem, I'd just like a clean bill of health before we tow our household goods.

I can get a heavy duty transmission cooler installed for $250. Worth the extra money for the insurance?

Thanks for responding so swiftly.

You are welcome.
Sounds like you found a good transmission place.
Also have them check the idle speed.
Idleing to fast will give a jerk to.
Good luck
MT

When I shift from park to drive, the truck really jumps. The transmission was rebuilt about 2 years ago, maybe 12k or so, by the previous owner at a local transmission shop that's since gone out of business.

I'd hate for this to cause problems in the transmission, especially since it's rebuilt, and especially if it's something that could be a short quick adjustment.

Any thoughts?

More info below... thanks guys...


bad torque converter

On the call back he mentioned that high idle was too high, causing much of the jump. I'd noticed that, and when I compared idle between my '01 Yukon (around 800 rpm) and the Tahoe (around 1200 rpm) I figured the Tahoe was too high.

I'll hear back on Friday as to whether or not the pressures are good. I'm leaning towards having the transmission cooler installed as this truck is getting all sorts of new parts, and I think I'll keep it for a while at this rate.

Thanks for the words on the torque converter, I'll talk to him about it.

I really appreciate the results. Cars aren't my specialty, but on the shooting forums I belong to I try to "pay it forward" helping folks out in comparable situations.

On the call back he mentioned that high idle was too high, causing much of the jump. I'd noticed that, and when I compared idle between my '01 Yukon (around 800 rpm) and the Tahoe (around 1200 rpm) I figured the Tahoe was too high.

I'll hear back on Friday as to whether or not the pressures are good. I'm leaning towards having the transmission cooler installed as this truck is getting all sorts of new parts, and I think I'll keep it for a while at this rate.

Thanks for the words on the torque converter, I'll talk to him about it.

I really appreciate the results. Cars aren't my specialty, but on the shooting forums I belong to I try to "pay it forward" helping folks out in comparable situations.


engine idle too high, 2000 Silverado 5.3L 500-600 rpm in gear..out of gear idle 600-650 rpm.....if you continue to operate the vehicle at your high idle rpm's transmission will suffer damage...

vacuum leaks,worn PCV ,hoses ,and IAC/throttle body dirty....will cause incorrect idle .....intake manifold leak also....DO NOT USE CARB CLEANER in any way on this engine as it will destroy all rubber componets...use throttle body cleaner and be carefull not to use excessive amounts that will flood the intake...allow time for chemicals to evaporate before starting engine....

engine idle too high, 2000 Silverado 5.3L 500-600 rpm in gear..out of gear idle 600-650 rpm.....if you continue to operate the vehicle at your high idle rpm's transmission will suffer damage...

vacuum leaks,worn PCV ,hoses ,and IAC/throttle body dirty....will cause incorrect idle .....intake manifold leak also....DO NOT USE CARB CLEANER in any way on this engine as it will destroy all rubber componets...use throttle body cleaner and be carefull not to use excessive amounts that will flood the intake...allow time for chemicals to evaporate before starting engine....

I've got a new PCV, and after a quick look most of the hoses look good. I'll have to check for a vacuum leak. I hope it's not an intake manifold leak, although that could be a suspect as the top end of the motor was redone before I got it.

I've got a new PCV, and after a quick look most of the hoses look good. I'll have to check for a vacuum leak. I hope it's not an intake manifold leak, although that could be a suspect as the top end of the motor was redone before I got it.


i use a small propane torch to look for vacuum leaks.....put hose on end of torch and place in area to check this will cause rpm's to increase..this will not damage anything...do not use carb cleaner !!!! this will damage your rubber plastic parts gaskets etc.....

I think I may have found a problem - bad brake booster. Check my other thread out for specifics, but thanks again for pointing this out.

I just towed my car trailer across the country and everything worked well.

After unhooking the trailer I notice that when I let my foot off the gas and go to idle then give it gas there's a little jump, possibly the differential. When I replaced the diff fluid a few weeks ago I noticed it's fairly worn.

Also, a strange thing would happen in overdrive or 3rd gear. I could cruise along but when I'd give it some more gas, instead of downshifting a whole gear it was as if the RPMs would increase but stay in gear. I haven't seen this before but I'm thinking it was a little bit of transmission slippage?

I have to tow the trailer back to UT empty (thank goodness) which should be a lot easier, then take the truck to AZ for a few months. If it makes it there, and back to Minnesota, then I'll have gotten my money's worth out of it.

I just towed my car trailer across the country and everything worked well.

After unhooking the trailer I notice that when I let my foot off the gas and go to idle then give it gas there's a little jump, possibly the differential. When I replaced the diff fluid a few weeks ago I noticed it's fairly worn.

Also, a strange thing would happen in overdrive or 3rd gear. I could cruise along but when I'd give it some more gas, instead of downshifting a whole gear it was as if the RPMs would increase but stay in gear. I haven't seen this before but I'm thinking it was a little bit of transmission slippage?

I have to tow the trailer back to UT empty (thank goodness) which should be a lot easier, then take the truck to AZ for a few months. If it makes it there, and back to Minnesota, then I'll have gotten my money's worth out of it.

Rpm coming up a little may be lockup unlocking.
Normal for it to do that.
Thanks for letting us know how it went.
Sounds like it is doing good.
Good luck
MT

Man, thanks for the words! I appreciate it.

Now the truck won't start! It cranks fine, just won't catch. I've got a fuel pressure gauge I'll hook up tonight to see if the pump finally went.

The best part - the truck's on the sixth floor of a garage w/6'8" clearance! No idea how to get it out and get it to a garage...

Oh MY.

Verify good fuel pressure and good hot blue spark to spark plugs.

MT

Oh MY.

Verify good fuel pressure and good hot blue spark to spark plugs.

MT

My fuel pressure gauge indicates about 20-22 psi when attached to the fuel rail tester port on the driver's side.

That's not a big surprise in the sense that my fuel gauge was acting funny over the last few months, and the mileage was sub-standard. It was replaced by the previous owner but my guess is it was a junk pump, or maybe damaged while installed.

Now, if I can only figure out how to get the truck out of the parking garage...

Sorry for the delay in the update.

New fuel pump, AC Delco, cost a lot of money to have a shop install but we're moving and it had to be done.

Thanks again.

Sorry for the delay in the update.

New fuel pump, AC Delco, cost a lot of money to have a shop install but we're moving and it had to be done.

Thanks again.


I hope all this trouble is over for a good period of time....vehicles are sometimes very expensive to own ...and since you bought used ,,,this is what can happen...

how did they get the vehicle out of the parking garage....?

Now the truck won't start! It cranks fine, just won't catch. I've got a fuel pressure gauge I'll hook up tonight to see if the pump finally went.

The best part - the truck's on the sixth floor of a garage w/6'8" clearance! No idea how to get it out and get it to a garage...

What's the old song? "If it weren't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all?"

I'm gonna wish you good luck anyway.

You asked a while back in this thread if getting a tranny cooler was worth it.

You better believe it. Heat is the tranny's worst enemy.

Looks like you'll need a low hoist tow truck.

I talked to the tow company and they brought a regular truck with a rope, and the towtruck stayed outside of the garage. They'd dealt with it before in the garage so it's not news to them. I did leave them and go inside as I didn't want to watch them if anything went wrong!

I really like this truck, our other vehicle is an '01 Yukon that was SUPPOSED to be mine but the wife drives it all the time and I drive this one. I've got a 3 mile commute each way so gas isn't a big issue, I just need a truck that will start every time I go out to it.

I replaced the tranny fluid yesterday with Mobil 1 synthetic and the fluid I took out looked great, it was just smelling a little "burned" after I towed a car trailer from UT to MN and back. After getting in town here in Phoenix, where I'll be for a few months with work, I did brakes/oil change/O2 sensor/tranny fluid to say "thanks, truck, for not stranding me on the side of the road."

I got it cheap and I knew stuff would happen that needed to be fixed, but like you mentioned it's good to know stuff is being replaced that I won't have to worry about.

Shocks this weekend, and then I just need to figure out why it's hard to start sometimes. Ignition maybe???

I may invest in a tranny cooler later this fall. I'm away from home for work for a few months and I may be driving back towing a small boat, so it's worth checking it out.

So far the transmission is doing well, I think I can notice a slight improvement in shift quality.

However, I'm thinking I may have topped the fluid off a little high. When I was running the truck after replacing the pan and about 3 quarts of fluid, I'd let the truck go at a slightly fast idle and run the transmission through the gears. After three minutes I'd check the fluid. I ended up putting just over four quarts of fluid in the transmission.

The problem is now the readings on the dipstick are very high when it's been sitting overnight, and I just checked the readings warm after shutting down the truck.

Did I add too much fluid? If I did, how can I get it out without dropping the pan?

Thanks again...

Always check with engine running.
When cold it should check lower on dip stick.
For the final check on fluid level.
Check the transmission fluid after a 20-30 minute drive.
Engine running run it threw all gears and put it in park and check fluid level.
It should be in the hot cross hatch part of dip stick.
If to full you can use a suction gun in the dip stick tube to remove some or Remove a transmission cooler line and hose it into a bucket or pan and start engine and let a little pump out.

Adventurer_96,

Like MT-2500 said, ALWAYS check the tranny fluid level when at operating temp.

This means not after a period of high speed operation or trailer towing, etc.

Follow the exact procedure that is stamped on the dipstick.

The engine MUST be running when checking the level and ensure the vehicle is sitting level too.

I have an '02 Tahoe 4x4 with a 5.3L and my book tells me the tranny contains 7 qts., so your MAY be close.
Measure carefully. (you may have to wipe the dipstick off a few times to get an accurate reading)

Tranny fluid will foam when overfull. Not a good idea.

Is the engine idling at 600 rpm now when at operating temp?

I may invest in a tranny cooler later this fall. I'm away from home for work for a few months and I may be driving back towing a small boat, so it's worth checking it out.

So far the transmission is doing well, I think I can notice a slight improvement in shift quality.

However, I'm thinking I may have topped the fluid off a little high. When I was running the truck after replacing the pan and about 3 quarts of fluid, I'd let the truck go at a slightly fast idle and run the transmission through the gears. After three minutes I'd check the fluid. I ended up putting just over four quarts of fluid in the transmission.

The problem is now the readings on the dipstick are very high when it's been sitting overnight, and I just checked the readings warm after shutting down the truck.

Did I add too much fluid? If I did, how can I get it out without dropping the pan?

Thanks again...


when checking trans fluid level make sure engine is at normal operating temp,,,,go for a 5-10mi ride ..then on level ground check that the fluid is at the middle upper crosshatch area..


when replacing fliud measure what you took out.. then add 1/2quart less than drained ,,then start engine and slowly add to the lower crosshatch area engine running...


on this vehicle with the normal pan it should be 4quarts...

If too much fluid ,,I use the hand pump for pumping my diff oil into the diff's and with a 3foot 3/8 or 5/16 hose suck out the trans fluid if I put too much in... if It's over 100deg f it may be slightly over the crosshatch...especially with no trans cooler...

Guys, thanks for the in-depth replies.

When I drained and replaced the fluid, I made sure that the engine was warmed up and I was running the shifter through the gears on the lift while slowly adding fluid. The manual says 5 quarts, but based upon what I've read there's still some residual when you just drop the pan. I was trying to be very careful to not over-fill, and when the engine was warm (without the drive that you guys are recommending) it was in the hatched area.

Then, when I checked it cold (like it ever gets cold in Phoenix in August...) it was above the hot fill line, almost to the bend in the dipstick. I checked it again after driving last night when I filled up, and my mistake was I left the engine off. It was a pure brain fart as I know better but I'll have a chance to check it out tomorrow. I'm staying on an Air Force base and I have the opportunity to use the auto hobby shop here, basically a full garage where you can do it yourself. I'm guessing they'll have a tube to remove a bit.

There is no bubbling/frothing/foaming in the fluid. I may be a little high but not off the chart I think.

Regarding the idle, it's better - close to if not 600 when in Overdrive stopped with my foot on the pedal. Part of the problem before I think was I was having an insidious vacuum leak through my brake booster, and since I replaced that booster on our move to Minnesota in a hotel parking lot the idle is better. The shift quality is great on every gear except the initial shift to Overdrive when cold and occasionally into second gear, depending on how I'm driving it. Far from the "you need a new transmission" that they tried to sell me in Utah before leaving. My A/C compressor is fine, they wanted $750 to fix that too. Thieves...

I'm having some fuel problems now with a fuel pressure regulator. After I swap that out tomorrow, I think I'll have a better idea of how this engine is running and the idle. While in there, I'll probably take a look at the fuel injectors too. During the 2400 mile drive down here from Minnesota, I used a fuel injector cleaner for each fill-up. I sense a bit of an improvement when starting from a stop, no hesitation anymore, although on the highway I do feel an occasional "miss" maybe - hard to explain. I'm hoping it's the regulator.

This fuel pressure regulator (if it's the problem, which I think it is from the other thread) is making me a little uneasy when it comes to driving anywhere but around town here. I hope to get a clear picture of what's going on in the truck after tomorrow.

Thanks again guys.

Guys, thanks for the in-depth replies.

When I drained and replaced the fluid, I made sure that the engine was warmed up and I was running the shifter through the gears on the lift while slowly adding fluid. The manual says 5 quarts, but based upon what I've read there's still some residual when you just drop the pan. I was trying to be very careful to not over-fill, and when the engine was warm (without the drive that you guys are recommending) it was in the hatched area.

Thanks again guys.


I have 2 4l60 transmissions one is the standard pan, this takes 4quarts...the other has the deep pan this takes 5quarts,,,,


but like I said before always measure what you remove so that you know the correct amount when filling..


I noticed that after 500mi of driving with the synthetic trans fluid ,, that the shifting improved...much faster and smoother...that was when I had 20,ooomi on my silverado in 2002...

I must have the standard pan because I'm a little bit high at just over 4 quarts. I checked it tonight when topping off at the gas station, engine running, and it's ever so slightly above the top of the hot level.

When I stop in the shop on Friday or Saturday I'll vacuum out the last of it with a pump. Thanks.

Oh, and the idle according to the scanner was about 700 RPM. EGR valve works, and otherwise the truck seems to be OK except for the injectors. Two have broken clips, one of those has lost both, and another has a broken tab on the end of the injector.

I guess I'll be looking to change those out, now that I've changed the pressure regulator. I'll update that thread here in a minute.

your in phoenix now with the temp at 110deg f you should be at the top of the crosshatch area ....if it's 1/8in over it will be ok...


like I said before I use a hand operated piston pump to suck out the fluid if I put in too much....



your idle is just a very little high 600-650 rpm is what I find normal at normal engine temp of 195f ,,,, but if its 110deg f air temp maybe the computer is commanding a slightly higher idle..

as you have been operating with the synthetic trans fluid have you noticed the faster down shifts???

You know, I believe I have. I've noticed an improvement in overall shift quality, but less so with acceleration - mainly just smoothness during driving, not hard acceleration.

I figured I'd rather get the best fluids out there for an extra $10-$15, worth it for peace of mind.

I did think the idle was a bit high, too, but I'm not sure what to do about it. Suggestions?

You know, I believe I have. I've noticed an improvement in overall shift quality, but less so with acceleration - mainly just smoothness during driving, not hard acceleration.

I figured I'd rather get the best fluids out there for an extra $10-$15, worth it for peace of mind.

I did think the idle was a bit high, too, but I'm not sure what to do about it. Suggestions?

yes the smoother shift but also a faster shift so that it is barely felt...

when on the hwy at 60-70mph the passing downshifts where fast and solid after the change over,,,

on the slightly higher idle check the vacuum lines and any other areas of vacuum leaks as if there is a leak the computer will cause the idle to increase to insure the correct mixture of air to fuel...


On the synthetic trans fluid it is stated that the ability to transfer heat is much greater which adds greater life to the fluids ability to properly lubricate and supply the correct pressures under high temp...

I paid special attention to the shifting on the highway when I drove around Phoenix yesterday, not just the shift quality when starting out but more the shift quality while driving on the highway. Much better and more smooth, but acceleration is still not as good as my '01 Yukon 5.3 with the 4.11 rear end. This truck has a 3.73 and I would have figured it would be more responsive on the highway, but it's still not a speed machine when passing compared to my Yukon. I love the Tahoe, but I REALLY love the Yukon.

I'll double check for any vacuum leaks when I install the fuel injector assembly next weekend. It will be interesting to test it on the highway to see how it changes things.

One thing that I think will help with overall ride quality is new shocks. I installed four today, Monroe SensaTracs, and the rears are the 58612 models with the extra springs on the top. Hopefully that will help with any towing I might do in the future, as the car trailer I towed really made the rear suspension sag.

I paid special attention to the shifting on the highway when I drove around Phoenix yesterday, not just the shift quality when starting out but more the shift quality while driving on the highway. Much better and more smooth, but acceleration is still not as good as my '01 Yukon 5.3 with the 4.11 rear end. This truck has a 3.73 and I would have figured it would be more responsive on the highway, but it's still not a speed machine when passing compared to my Yukon. I love the Tahoe, but I REALLY love the Yukon.

I'll double check for any vacuum leaks when I install the fuel injector assembly next weekend. It will be interesting to test it on the highway to see how it changes things.

One thing that I think will help with overall ride quality is new shocks. I installed four today, Monroe SensaTracs, and the rears are the 58612 models with the extra springs on the top. Hopefully that will help with any towing I might do in the future, as the car trailer I towed really made the rear suspension sag.

I think the ratio difference between the two trucks (4.0 as opposed to the 3.73) with the 4.0 being the more torque oriented of the two.

What's the hp in the '96?

I have the 5.3 (285hp) with the 3.73 rear and I don't have any passing problems even when towing my 21' travel trailer.

I think the ratio difference between the two trucks (4.0 as opposed to the 3.73) with the 4.0 being the more torque oriented of the two.

What's the hp in the '96?

I have the 5.3 (285hp) with the 3.73 rear and I don't have any passing problems even when towing my 21' travel trailer.

Part of it is the gearing, part of it I think is just the fact that this truck was totally neglected before I got it and performance has suffered. I'm hoping to change that with upkeep.

I don't know what the HP rating is but it's a 5.7 Vortec.

I think the ratio difference between the two trucks (4.0 as opposed to the 3.73) with the 4.0 being the more torque oriented of the two.

What's the hp in the '96?

I have the 5.3 (285hp) with the 3.73 rear and I don't have any passing problems even when towing my 21' travel trailer.

I believe the 96 5.7l has less torque than the 99 on up 5.3l vortec engine which was designed for tow/haul use ...

also 4.11 gears will increase tow capacity but you loose on MPG....

Part of it is the gearing, part of it I think is just the fact that this truck was totally neglected before I got it and performance has suffered. I'm hoping to change that with upkeep.

I don't know what the HP rating is but it's a 5.7 Vortec.

Your '96 5.7L is 250 hp with 325ft.lb engine torque
Estimated MPG (hwy) is 17 mpg
(Info from Car Talk 'Car Research' link.)

Oddly enough, we get great mileage (relatively speaking) in the Yukon, 17-18 on the hwy.

Back to the Tahoe, the right front shock was shot (compressed but wouldn't rebound) so replacing it got rid of tire chatter when hitting a bump/pothole/etc. The ride is stiffer, imagine that, but it's better.


On the highway, it eliminated initially the really bad vibrations I was getting between 65-70 mph. However, they returned, just not nearly as bad. I'm thinking it's one of two things:

1. Driveshaft out of balance. I had a transmission seal replaced two months ago and I could swear the vibration wasn't present before that. Maybe the DS was re-installed 180 degrees out, and it's only vibrating at high speeds?

2. Suspension is mixed up, either too tight or the springs were damaged by the towing. Would adjusting the torsion bars help?

Other things to consider are the vibrations didn't change when I shifted to D3 from overdrive, the transmission is really shifting smoother than prior to swapping the fluid after paying attention to it per jcat's observation so I don't *think* it's a transmission problem anymore, and the tires were freshly balanced last week.

Before I turn the DS 180 degrees, I figured I'd ask here to see what the vibration might be. I also figured it was better than starting another "mystery vibration" thread!

since you believe it was the seal change when the vib's started on a vehicle this old carefully check for drive shaft bal. weights that may have been forced off...you should see a rust/metal spot where they were mounted...also before reversring d/s use chalk/paint and mark.....


these vib's could very well be wheel bearings....very common ..when on lift check for movement..looseness..

check the pinion bearing on rear diff...

since you believe it was the seal change when the vib's started on a vehicle this old carefully check for drive shaft bal. weights that may have been forced off...you should see a rust/metal spot where they were mounted...also before reversring d/s use chalk/paint and mark.....


these vib's could very well be wheel bearings....very common ..when on lift check for movement..looseness..

check the pinion bearing on rear diff...

The weights seem to be present, I didn't see any of the signs you mentioned since I figured this would be the obvious culprit but based upon your comment I'll take a closer look. I also didn't see any mark whatsoever from when they swapped that output seal, which made me think they may have put it in upside down.

I'll double check the bearings but there didn't seem to be any play when I checked the last time on the lift. Would the vibration be present at lower speeds, too, if it's the bearings?

How would you check the pinion on the rear diff? I replaced the fluid in there before towing, and there was wear on the gears but they didn't appear to be unserviceable to my untrained eye.

I'm going to head to a driveshaft shop this week most likely. Vibrations build between 65-70mph, in overdrive or 3rd gear, and go away when I slow down.


The shaft has thrown some grease on the bottom of the truck.

Lucky me...