This is my first post and I am open to any suggestions. My tank was empty, I filled up and drove 20 miles and car stalled. When trying to restart it would back fire and sounded like it was running on two or three cylinders. I used the key to pull codes and got 12/54/32/21/32/55. (I have noticed occasionally with key off, door locks will not operate...Key on, they do however, sometimes clock/radio will not work.) Installed new fuel pump, got it running, went to autozone to pull codes and they could not get any reading and then car died again. Got it running got home got code 11. So I replaced cam sensor, crank sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, plugs, air filter, and
EGR valve. :banghead: Still stalls after running a few minutes. (When I get it to start!) Coil pack? Plug wires? BCM? Any suggestions?

Have you tried resetting the computer and seeing what codes still come on? Looks like you took care of some of the codes. This site has the code list if needed.

http://www.allpar.com/fix/80s-codes.html

Hopefully after resetting a code will come up to point you in the right direction, if its all clear, maybe clean the IAC, check all your grounds/battery voltage. Does it run normal/smooth before it stalls?

I've erased codes, & started and let it run till it starts missing (usually 5-10 minutes at most) if i give it some throttle it backfires several times and dies, but isn't setting any codes. I've wiggled wires, tested relays & fuses, had battery tested,removed after market alarm, still no better. So i'm going to replace coil pack & plug wires, if this doesn't do the job i may be looking at a new ECM . Of course a stick of dynamite would "eliminate" the problem if nothing else works, just kidding, but i'm about out of ideas and money.

I wouldn't replace it yet, I will check some other sites and post back.

Code 54 could be causing codes 21 and 32, codes 12 and 55 are fine.

Is the cam gear sensor you replaced properly gapped? Just a hair will cause a misreading to the computer. Do check the wiring to it too. I read it should have 5 volts to it. When it dies does it just die or slowly dies? When it just dies it points more towards cam issue where slowly points more towards intake needing cleaned.

I read there is a regulator that holds pressure that is mounted to the fuel pump, is that ok? I read it can cause fluctuation in fuel pressure.

You may not get spark due to the cam sensor issue. Also, you may want to clean the intake, maybe check the IAC

http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=47863


Other maybe's - Plugged injectors can cause a lean mixture. High plug wire resistance can cause the ignition coil to fail. Same with those split-fire plugs. Wide gaps in plugs can cause the wires to fail but you replaced all these.

Codes - http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=104185

Will check some more tomorrow. Hope this helps some. I did read in one place that the coil pack and ignition can cause this issue to but so many more pointed to these other issues above.

Thank you for your help. The cam sensor had the spacer on the tip and i double checked adjustment when installing, i havent checked sensor voltage yet but will. As to how it dies, if the engine starts it will usually start missing within a few minutes(5-10) and die within 15-20 seconds. If i try to rev it during this time it just backfires repeatedly while missig and eventually dies. I haven't cleaned the intake plennum or checked the IAC, but will. On this subject i noticed when the intake box was off and engine was running relatively smooth, there seemed to be quite a fluctuation in the intake air flow sound. As for the fuel pressure it was a steady 52 lbs. both with key on and while running. If the injectors were plugged, would'nt it run bad all the time? I've not had them cleaned, but i do run Quik Trip gas exclusively, which is advertised as having additives to keep fuel system clean. Sounds like i need to check that out. On the plugs, i used Bosch platinum, (maybe shouuld have used champion) and i did check the gap.

I forgot to mentoin that i erased the codes and it has done this several times since but not set any new ones, but i've not taken out for a test drive because i've already broken down on the road several times and hate to push my luck. I've been wondering if it may have jumped time, but i'm not sure how to chek it out without a timing mark. If it is a timing chain, how in the world do you replace it with such limited access and visibility?

I will be more than happy to post the solution when i find the problem. Thank you for the help.