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Begginer looking for advice


POPSICLE_PETE
02-14-2003, 07:17 PM
I am trying to become good at building car models, especially painting them. I read lots of stuff to try to learn how to do it right. But they seem to contradict eachother sometimes. I want to start using automotive paint for the shells, but for now Im using those testors and modelmaster paints, you know...the kind that comes in those little spray cans. Well right now im building a Ford cobra IMSA racecar, and i have the front of the car painted with classic white testors, but its kinda rough, like that orange peel thing you guy talk about. I'm scared to try to make it look better because I already painted it twice and its starting to lose detail. It looks ok in when I hold it up against the light, but it doesnt really have a nice shine. I think ill sand it down as smooth as i can and spray laquor gloss on it. Would this make it shine.?

thanks

POPSICLE_PETE
02-14-2003, 07:24 PM
Acctually, I should rephrase that...Would it be better to try to sand down the white really smooth and then try to polish it, or spray gloss on it then do something with it?

sorry bout that...:D

daggerlee
02-14-2003, 07:26 PM
Sand it smooth with high grit sandpaper (at least 2000) and polish it with some compound!

JDM Evo7
02-14-2003, 07:40 PM
Just make sure to let it dry for a while. Enamels take a lot longer to dry than synthetic lacquers.

POPSICLE_PETE
02-14-2003, 07:46 PM
Tnank you daggerlee and Jdm evo 7 !!! Yeah I think i will try that. 2000 and just keep goin...up to 4000. I bought some really fine sandpaper like that once. Now all I gotta do is figure out which one is the 2000. I live in canada so we have different numbers I think. When I went to an autobody supply store, all i saw were numbers like 300 and 350 ect ect. Ok thnaks guys. Mebbe i will take a pic of it when its done, if it doesnt look too crappy. Bah...ill take a pic of it anyway , yeah.

JDM Evo7
02-14-2003, 07:46 PM
Canadian and US sandpaper numbers are the same.

POPSICLE_PETE
02-14-2003, 07:50 PM
Yeah the sand paper that I am using right now is 600 wet dry. Thats the stuff I use first then I use the finer stuff. But the fine stuff I have doesnt have numbers on the back. But I should be able to tell which order they should go in

Vric
02-14-2003, 07:59 PM
Originally posted by POPSICLE_PETE
Yeah the sand paper that I am using right now is 600 wet dry. Thats the stuff I use first then I use the finer stuff. But the fine stuff I have doesnt have numbers on the back. But I should be able to tell which order they should go in

600 is for rugh... Canadian Tire have sandpaper up to 1500.. and it's cheap (less than 1$Can)

POPSICLE_PETE
02-14-2003, 08:22 PM
But i have to start out with something like that . I tried using the fine stuff right off the bat once . It made the high parts smooth, but it couldnt get rid of all the little dimples. For some reason I have problems with white paint. Usually other colors go on really smooth and i dont have problems. Acctually some white paint is ok. I did a grandnational once in white and it turned out ok, really smooth. But this modelmaster classic white is really ripply when it dries. Does anybody know what the difference is between Classic white and white?? My grand national is white , but compared to the classic white mustang, it looks like it has a yellowish tint to it. Did I jus answer my own question???!? :bloated:

POPSICLE_PETE
02-14-2003, 08:24 PM
Btw vric, yer models are phat !!!:)

hirofkd
02-14-2003, 08:53 PM
Compound can't get rid of the scratches made by 600 grit, because it's too big.
You'll need 1500 or higher.

Cosmetic goods section of a supermarket has very fine sand paper, or actually the backing is not paper, but thin plastic, and it's probably called emery paper.

Make sure you don't over sand, or the base color will appear near the edges and details.

Here, the hood is partially sanded with 2000 grit sand paper.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/188993p9230026b.jpg

Now, when the hood is thoroughly sanded, it should look like this.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/182344p9230037b.jpg

After compound is used, you get a result like this.
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/470273p9230045b.jpg

(Boy, this is the 4th time, I refer to the same pics. :) )

Vric
02-14-2003, 09:04 PM
Originally posted by POPSICLE_PETE
Btw vric, yer models are phat !!!:)
:hehe:

btw your problem is Testor and Model Master Paint..... do you a favor, and Buy Tamiya Paint for future project.... I have used Testor for near 8 month.. and now Only use Tamiya paint.. So easy

ales
02-15-2003, 12:42 AM
Originally posted by hirofkd

(Boy, this is the 4th time, I refer to the same pics. :) )

I found these so helpful that I took the liberty of adding them to the FAQ here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?postid=578999#post578999) :uhoh:

Now no one will have an excuse for not seing the pics ;)

POPSICLE_PETE
02-15-2003, 03:13 AM
Whats a good brand of "compound" to buy?

primera man
02-15-2003, 04:08 AM
If you are starting to loose the detail already....you really need to strip the car back and start over with a prime and then topcoats.

You cant beat a Tamiya can, so IMO i'd ditch what you are using and just use tamiya cans...you will notice the differance.

Try Tamiya rubbing compound....i find its great

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