Help!!!! I Need My Integra To Go Faster!!!!

problem:
i recently tricked out my 97 integra hatachback GS and promptly got my ass handed to my by a mustang GT, twice.

i want to make it faster and i am serious about getting an engine swap, either USDM or JDM.
i still want the car for daily driving so i don't want to turbo charge it or supercharge it yet. what engines would be the best option that has VTEC and is left hand drive?

here are some engine swaps for integra's i have heard about being done, if there are any more availalbe that are good please tell me

1. LS/VTEC
2.GS-R USDM
3. B-20
4. B18 c-5 JDM type R
5. B18 c-1 JDM GS-R
6. H22A

much thanks,
johnny in new orleans

you should have lost to that GT, just so you know. ;)

just saying that you want to go all motor, doesnt really help with the decision of what motor to get. if you are going to swap it in and leave it, go with the b18c5 since it starts high and you can retain some handling. if you feel like upgrading suspension, along with some engine bay modifications, go with the h22. if you want to build the motor after you swap it, just get the b18c1 since its cheaper and build it from there.

considering you want to keep your car fairly simple so it will survive everyday driving, i would stay away from any frankenstein motors like the ls/vtec. the b20 offers good potential, if you are willing to boost it or frankenstein it, both of which you seem to want to avoid.

you can still get a turbo or super while keeping your car a daily driver, it just takes some knowledge on how to keep your car in good condition. supers are pretty reliable with a small amount of maintenance.

you need to decide how much money and time you are willing to spend on the project before you can make a decision on which to go with.

well, you already have a good motor in that integra. It's a strong and reliable engine, for about $3000 you can turbo it with 6-7psi and not have problems hurting it that much. In fact, the more $$ you have the better.... say you get the turbo kit (intercooled) add in a hondata, haltech, or whatever standalone ECU you can afford - throw in an AEM fuel rail and a set of 500cc injectors and with the proper tuning you can run reliably 8-10 psi .

JMO.:evillaugh

hmm,,
so far i've talked to a few local chop...er...body shops in the area and had one tell me that if i want reliability i should toss in a USDM motor b/c JDM motors are a pain in the ass to maintain as most of the engine connections will have to be rigged in order to get it to fit. is this true? i would think that the engine bay size would be the same either overseas or here.

in truth i would not object to some major modifications if it would mean that i would be able to finally take out that mustang and possibly get into the low14's. would a JDM b18c1 motor be fast enough for what i am looking for or should i just bite the bullet and toss in the b18c5?


thanks for your help
johnny

not all b18c5's have to be imported from japan. they sell type r's in america, making the motors not any more difficult to work with than a c1. jdm is nice, if you dont do anything to the motor later on, otherwise all the parts that make it nice will end up being switched out anyways.

You would need to put some $ in the b18c1 to run low 14's. If you think about it the cheaper route would be to keep your b18b1. The b18c1 will cost you around $3000 at the least for every thing you will need ( ie motor, ecu some rewiring for vtec and knock sensor, etc.) When you can spend probably $4,000 on the b18b1 and run high 13's. The b18c1 in stock form in your car is going to run mid 15's and with I/H/E around mid 14's. IMO i am saying weigh your options, My ls teg is well capable of low 14's I run 14.6 with 55hp shot and my factory clutch with 115,000 miles is slipping pretty bad, so new clutch and i could easily hit low 14's or maybe high 13's with 75 shot. And I can assure you i don't have $4000 in my motor.
just IMO though

BTW If I had it to do over again I would get the GSR!

much thanks to everyone who replied to my message.
i have decided to purcase the JDM GSR B18C1 and am currently looking for one.

johnny

i think it sounds right for him to have lost to that mustang, more torque, hp even though it's not as light. but its only a gs and the mustangs got one of those, umm oh yea, v8's

put a H22 in your hatchback along with headers, exhaust, cold air intake, s-afc, and v-afc and you should be able to whoop that GT good! :cool: them GT mustang don't run that fast they hit only low 14s depends on the driver also.

well if you are gona do that much, than of course the gt will lose. how does the vtec in integras make up for their lack of torque?

Well, im thinking about an engine swap in my 97 ls. I have heard the same. But, the type r yeah, I would do--just cause it is rare. Everyone has a GSR engine swap. The H22 is rare as well--but becoming popular. The H22 offers horsepower and good torque. But I know a guy that swaped his engine with a GSR j-spec engine. This car hauls major ass! It is known as the SIR engine. However, if you do straight blots on, you will be fine. Its true that the RS, GS, and LS blocks are a lot stronger than the GSR. You have a lot of options out there. But if you want to be original and not the same as others, go with an H22 or type r. That will throw you more respect. But dont forget your bolt ons.

97LSChick, Welcome to AF.
I love it when I see a chick who knows alot about imports.:D

Put a vtec head on it..DC sports header..new, distirbuter pulgs..echu chipp...platinum tip spark plugs..and a stage 3 clutch..that will do the job

Originally posted by 97LSChick
Its true that the RS, GS, and LS blocks are a lot stronger than the GSR.
not true. rs/gs/ls/se all use the same blocks. b18a on 90-91 and b18b for 92-02. The casted block itself is the exact same but there are a few things that the ls lacks.

oil squirters (this really helps in the higher rpm)
block girdle (again stabilizes block for high rpm use)
also the gsr uses stronger rods and well i cant say much about pistons all oe ringlands are weak.
sleeves are the exact same thickness and material as well so what is it that makes the ls block stronger?

btw where you from ;)

FYI in case you didnt know the 92-93 integra N/VTECengines weres B18A's also just like the 90-91. 94 started with the B18B and 140 horses.
And the RS, LS, and GS engines have just about 34 more cc's of displacement and i have also heard they have a better bottom end then the VTEC.

Originally posted by 93weed_eater
FYI in case you didnt know the 92-93 integra N/VTECengines weres B18A's also just like the 90-91. 94 started with the B18B and 140 horses.
And the RS, LS, and GS engines have just about 34 more cc's of displacement and i have also heard they have a better bottom end then the VTEC.

FYI: 90-91 B18A1 130hp/121lb-ft tq
92-93 B18A1 140hp/121lb-ft tq
94-01 B18B1 142hp/127lb-ft tq

And the B18B1 has 37cc more displacement than the B18C1.

Get your facts straight before you try to correct someone.

Quoting an old issue of Import Tuner actually or was it Honda Tuning. Well one of those but i'm pretty sure its 130. and hey i was only off by 3 cc Not to big a deal. Actually now that i think about it 37 makes more sense casue the B18 VTEC's are 1797 cc and mine is 1834 so it is 37 oops my bad

two local 93's have b18b's...not swapped.

yes ls blocks have a bit more displacement aquired from their longer stroke (different crank) which also results in a poor[er] r/s ratio of 1.54. This is one of the resons for such a low redline (6800 compared to the gsr's 8100)