sparkplug and distributor question

A couple of questions: what is the best way to remove stubborn sparkplugs in the 2.6? I managed to remove 2, but only with great difficulty. It was like they were in there since day 1, 1991. They came out so hard I thought I was pulling out the threads. Fortunately, the threads were ok. The other 2 plugs just barely budge, even when using a 1/2" breaker bar with extension. I stopped. Will it hurt to 'soak' them, the old plugs, with WD40 and let it set for a couple of days before I try removing them again? Next question: what is the trick to removing the rotor? I tried to pull it straight off, but no luck. I know on a 87 Trooper with the 2.3, the rotor pulled right off. Is it different on the 2.6?

Thank you,
Jim Welsh

Well, it happened. I used some PB Blaster on the stubborn #3 spark plug. I sprayed it good and let it soak for a couple of days. I went out Saturday to try and remove it. I got a couple of small turns out of it and then it snapped off flush. So, I guess my question is, what now? I obviously can't drive it down to an auto shop. Has this happened to anyone else? Short of removing the head, how would / did you remove what was left of the spark plug? Here are some pictures to better illustrate my problem.
Thanks,
Jim
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Well, it happened. I used some PB Blaster on the stubborn #3 spark plug. I sprayed it good and let it soak for a couple of days. I went out Saturday to try and remove it. I got a couple of small turns out of it and then it snapped off flush. So, I guess my question is, what now? I obviously can't drive it down to an auto shop. Has this happened to anyone else? Short of removing the head, how would / did you remove what was left of the spark plug? Here are some pictures to better illustrate my problem.
Thanks,
Jim

sure you can drive down to the auto shop, assuming it's not more than a mile or two. it's only going to miss, the other 3 cylinders will chug you there.
but they most likely are going to want to take the head off. the problem is you can drill it out progressively, but that stuff is going to get down into the cylinder.
what i might do is just that after getting that cylinder up to topdeadcenter, and then after getting it out, oh so carefully, see what's down in there and if i can get it all out, and if i can see the total area in there. if then in doubt i would remove the head.

//bc

i think you should be able to find some 'reverse thread' drills that should keep the majority of the stuff from getting in the cylinder if you are careful enough.

if you still have one plug tough to get out, be more patient. use the pb, try to work it out, stop when there is resistence, more pb, etc back and forth and you will probably be able to work it out in time (less time than removing the head anyway).

Sears sells a kit with reverse drills and a built in easy out. Not too bad on price. I agree that if you do it yourself, you are going to drop at least the anode into the cylinder when you drill (break) the middle out of the spark plug. You may be able to drill it pretty well since you will basically have a centered hole once the middle is gone, but be careful particulary if you use long drills and the piston is at the top...you don't want to drill the piston too. YOu should feel it when you break through the bottom of the plug, but just in case. Only drill the plug enough to remove the majority of metal, leaving the drill hole smaller than the threaded part of the plug. YOu should be able to at least peel it out by then if it has not already come out. I recommend the reverse (LH) drills....that way if it warms up and finally breaks free while drilling it will unscrew itself from the head.
Once it is out, a good blow out with compressed air may be enough to clear the cylinder. A pole magnet on a coat hanger or flexible wire will get the drill shavings out. I have also used a piece of duct tape reversed on the end of my claw tool to pick up any non metallic pieces inside where you cannot see them or blow them out. Leave the new plug out and crank it over a few times before installing the new plug. I hope this helps. good luck.

I have been giving this some more thought. Since the spark plug broke off flush, and of course, broke off the porcelin as well, I'm thinking the only thing holding the rest of the porcelin, or anode, in is the electrode. So here is what I have been thinking - spray some PB Blaster on the porcelin, let it soak in for a bit, apply some heat and then crank the motor and let the cylinder compression try and force the porcelin out, kind of like a cork. I don't think it is pressed in. I cut an old spark plug the same way this one broke off and the porcelin just comes right out.This would only leave the remaining threaded part easier to use an easy out on, plus no drilling. Think this is a good idea? It really can't cause any more damage, and the worse that could happen is that it won't work.
Comments and or suggestions?
Jim

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Comments and or suggestions?
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...."""the worse that could happen is that it won't work.
"""[/quote]


seems like good thinking to me, and good you did the dry run. you still need to get the cylinder at tdc and made absolutely sure nothings down there

good luck

//bc

p.s.:: i would also use white grease (or any grease) in the grooves of the drill to help catch the metal. stop and clean and regrease often

good luck

//bc

I like your thinking.....go for it!

I have an update to my broken off spark plug. I was successful in my perserance to remove this. The compression from the #3 cylinder was enough to blow out the remaining spark plug porcelin. After that, it took some more PB Blaster, I soaked it down good, a touch of the heat, a 18" 1/2" drive breaker bar with complementary cheater pipe. And then it broke my first 3/8" socket I put on the easy out. When that socket broke, I thought for sure I busted off that easy out. Anyway, the Isuzu Gods must have been smiling because I got that piece out without messing up the threads! All it took after I got it out was to run a thread chaser to clean up the threads. The new spark plug (with anti seize) screwed in perfect.

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Now that I got this little problem taken care of, how do I get the motor to idle down? It wants to idle at around 12 to 1500 rpm or so, it did this before the spark plug incident. What should I look for? Is there a idle adjustment somewhere?
Thanks,
Jim

An intake leak can cause a high idle. Most common problem around the forums. Try spraying wd 40 around the intake gasket areas to see if idle changes.....don't use flammable substance due to safety concerns for yourself! Check idle air compensator connector for corrosion. One guys opinion.