Timing belt replacement

I have a 1.6 E-TECH ll engine in an 05 Aveo. The Chevy dealership told me to have the timing belt inspected at 30k and replaced at 60k. They told me they have had some come in with a broken belt at 62k-76k and since it is an interference engine have had major engine damage. Seems the pistons run into the valves when it goes. I have several questions. Has anyone had a timing belt break? How many miles were on it when it went? How much does the dealer charge to replace the belt? I want to do it myself, but can't find a Haynes manual for it. Are there any publications that would tell about this?
Has anyone replaced it themselves? Thanks in advance!

http://www.aveoclub.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1217&highlight=timing+belt

http://chevy.mrmax.dp.ua/EN/documents/Kalos/start_kalos.html

this should get u pointed in the right direction.

Thanks Mike! The information was great. Especially the Daewoo labor time on different jobs. Gives me an idea of what the dealer will charge. The post on the Aveo club telling the steps to replace and adjust the belt is very informative. I think I will do the belt myself. Twice as difficult as an Escort, but the Aveo is a little more complicated engine with DOHC's and 4 valves per cylinder. I really appreciate your help. All the best! Dave

your welcome, anything i can do to help.

The Aveo has ZERO tolerance, my timing belt broke at 51,000 miles, my mechanic could not change it because of a dealer only tool for the water pump, it is a 5 hour job, went to dealership to have it fixed. $1234.18 to fix it, belt took out 8 valves. They had my car over a week. To have belt simply inspected at shop is roughly 200 bucks, so may as well replace it while they are looking. Good luck.
MsStressed PS i have a good mechanic and he is amazed at the damage to the motor at 25mph when belt broke.

http://www.aveoclub.net/phpBB3/viewt...ht=timing+belt (http://www.aveoclub.net/phpBB3/viewt...ht=timing+belt)

just an update on this timing belt how to link. the board has been upgraded to a phpbb3 format so the link has been updated accordingly.

The J-Kent Moore tool is very expensive. Go to http://www.ebay.co.uk/ type in Draper 31486 This tool runs around 7.85 pound appx. $2.00 per pound.
Royal air mail is twice as expensive around 5.85 pound. Denlors sells them in the U S for $44.00 Always ask for a shipping price to the U S as some try to gouge you. Abbey tools uk will ship to the U S. You can do a yahoo search for the tool number.
From the picture buy the tool. http://www.lasertools.co.uk/ should also have one.
It takes at least a week from the uk to Atlanta. Laser makes two but different sizes. The 1738 is 41mm
The 1737 is for a different engine. If you work on foreign engines a good source.
Do a www.tool (http://www.tool) bay biz uk search for laser tools.
This is a cheap timing belt adjustment tool. http://www.autopart.com/TOOLS/TOOLSMAIN/tool/T_A876.htm

Had mine replaced at the dealer at 57k. Cost me around $250-$260 with tax. Belt alone from dealer was over $90. I think they charged 2 hours at $75.

Thats not to bad. Did you have them do the water pump why they where in there?

Get a quote small town dealers are about 1/2 the cost of big city dealers.

I did not have the water pump done. What is the issue with the water pump at 60k?
I feel the dealer is a smart choice for this repair. You at least have a guage to use when getting quotes. Any local repair shop I've used charges $75/hour for labor the same as everyone else. Your local guy may get the part cheaper but I'm not sure what that will save you in the end. They all quote hours out of the book.

Only reason I ask about the water pump is that it is driven off the timing belt, and i've heard its good to have it done while they already have it that torn apart. saves alittle bit of money in the long run if ur pump goes out.

If doing the job yourself the 41mm special wrench is close to 1 9/16 =1.5625
41mm =1.61417 one of my fan clutch wrenchs is 1 9/16 you can borrow one free from Advance or Auto Zone. This is worth a try if you are in a jam with it ready to be torn down with no tool.

You don't need the special 41mm tool to do it! I just used a piece of heavy 30# picture hanging wire. I slid the wire through the back of the small arm of the tensioner and then just pulled on the wire as I wrapped it around a srew driver. The wire needs to be about 15 inches long. It's easy if you look at it you will figure it out. Make sure you notch on your crank pulley is pointing down and the two cam pulleyes are ligned up horizontally or you will have a lot of sputtering.

I did this timing belt replacement and the water pump as well. Took me about a day. Of course first time and made a few mistakes. I used the Alldata site for a tutorial and by the way their information wasn't completely correct. They show a power steering pump where a motor mount is. Not a real big deal, just a little confusing is all. I contacted them and still haven't heard that they changed it or not. I think the rest of the procedure is OK, although they don't give enough detail about the water pump procedure in my opinion. It leaves a few "minor" details out. I think the problem is that the engines vary with the VIN numbers. Probably their procedures are OK for the majority of these engines but there are exceptions to the rule. Again this is my opinion only. I have no concrete evidence to back this up only my own experience. Anyway if anyone here needs some advice, don't hesitate to ask. I can probably be of some assistance. As far as the special tools, all I did was to make the 41mm wrench from a print that I found online. I didn't have the angle torque wrench, I just estimated where 30 and 15 degrees was. My crank pulley hasn't fallen off yet (knock on wood). Happy wrenching, Toni.

I am going to attempt to replace my daughters belt. I have done it a few times on other cars, wife's Prizm, My Amigo. I am having a dickens of a time getting the main pully removed. Any advice?

One thing that you should know is that it's probably a Daewoo engine which is made in Korea. I know this one of ours is. Like I stated before, I derived some of my info from the Alldata site, but it was not quite right for this model. They show a power steering pump in the center of the timing belt area, mine has a motor mount there.They double checked the procedure and pretty much gave me the same info. all over again. So, no help there. I did find a site http://www.daewootech.com/forum/index.php, that is pretty helpful. There search function leaves something to be desired, in my opinion.

Anyway getting to the matter at hand, what worked for me was to hold the crank pulley with a pair of vise grips. It came off quite good I thought. I have read where a chain wrench and a rag does the trick. I couldn't see any way to otherwise hold the thing from turning. I know on some cars there is punch hole in the back end that works well, I didn't see anything in that area. It isn't too bad of a job if you don't want to change the water pump as I did. I guess it is recommended. In order to do that you'll need to take the rear timing belt covers off and to do that you must take the camshaft pulleys off, quite a project in itself, I thought. Depending on the model of car, you may need the 41MM water pump adjuster wrench, as this is what tightens the timing belt. I work in a machine shop environment, so I found a print of one online and made my own. I think you might be able to do it with a pair of vise grips with the motor mount out of the way, if yours is setup that way. One word of advice that I discovered, when putting the new belt on, set the crank pulley one tooth back prematurely. Because when you get it set into position and make the "2 turns" to check it, it always seems to come out 1 tooth ahead. After about 6 tries, I finally left it that way and now my idling is running around 800 RPM's where it was running around 1250 RPM's. It runs like it always did, just slower idling. I'll probably take it back apart this Spring and reset it when the weather warms again. Hopefully it won't affect the valves during this time. I know this is kind of long but, it should be some help.

Good Luck, Toni.

Are you having getting the bolt or pulling the harmonic balancer. I use an Impact wrench and socket. For a Puller I have different types.
http://www.autopart.com/tools/toolsmain/tool/T_2237.htm Other numbers
look at A810,A885,A813,2236, when you know what you need AutoZone and Advanced have a tool loaner program. You can pull the starter and use a large screwdriver in the flywheel or remove the cover on the bottom between the motor and transmission. Block with a large screwdriver.
For the large metric wrench borrow a 1 9/16 inch water pump tool.