Help with water pump and timing belt.. I think

ive got a 92 toyota camry v6 engine but anyway the water pump went out and obviously it would get hot quick but I only drove it back anf forth from work I work right down the street from my house but one day i was coming home and it just stalled and now it wont start I knw its not a blown head because it just smoked alittle but Im hearing itsthe timing belt but at the same time Im hearing that if it is the timing belt that I could have blown my motor i think the term was imperial motor.. what is it and is that true what do I do

Your engine is not severely damaged by breaking the timing belt. It is a free-running engine (not an interference engine). Your water pump may have seized and broke the belt since the timing belt drives the water pump.

What do you do? Replace whatever is damaged or worn out or leaking in the front of the engine behind and including the timing belt.

I hope you didn't overheat and lock-up your engine. That falls under the "Bad News" category. Does the starter turn the engine? If so, you are probably just fixing the timing belt and other stuff. If the engine won't turn with the starter, you may be buying a used engine.

I'll second the "no damage". As Brian R stated you have what is known as a "non interference" engine, also known as a "freewheeling" engine. That means the valves will not strike the top of the pistons when the belt breaks. Be happy you don't own a Honda. I just went through this with my 94 4cyl. Camry. Brian R's scenario is exactly what happened in my case. One way to confirm the timing belt broke is to remove the distributor cap (if equipped) and watch the ignition rotor. If it doesn't turn as you crank the engine, the timing belt is broken. If you can turn it by hand, the distributor shaft is broken. Another way is to just listen to the engine as it cranks. When a timing belt breaks no compression is produced. This will let the engine "spin" faster than normal when cranking. You should hear the difference.

FYI - $1031 to change the belt, water pump, a pulley, crankshaft seal, tensioner spring, and oil pump seals. $423 for parts, the rest was labor. That was at a Toyota dealership in California. It will be cheaper elsewhere. I didn't have much choice.

Your engine is not severely damaged by breaking the timing belt. It is a free-running engine (not an interference engine). Your water pump may have seized and broke the belt since the timing belt drives the water pump.

What do you do? Replace whatever is damaged or worn out or leaking in the front of the engine behind and including the timing belt.

I hope you didn't overheat and lock-up your engine. That falls under the "Bad News" category. Does the starter turn the engine? If so, you are probably just fixing the timing belt and other stuff. If the engine won't turn with the starter, you may be buying a used engine.
I know that I didnt lock up the motor lol at least I think I didnt but it just smoked it little and it does crank fast..

I'll second the "no damage". As Brian R stated you have what is known as a "non interference" engine, also known as a "freewheeling" engine. That means the valves will not strike the top of the pistons when the belt breaks. Be happy you don't own a Honda. I just went through this with my 94 4cyl. Camry. Brian R's scenario is exactly what happened in my case. One way to confirm the timing belt broke is to remove the distributor cap (if equipped) and watch the ignition rotor. If it doesn't turn as you crank the engine, the timing belt is broken. If you can turn it by hand, the distributor shaft is broken. Another way is to just listen to the engine as it cranks. When a timing belt breaks no compression is produced. This will let the engine "spin" faster than normal when cranking. You should hear the difference.

FYI - $1031 to change the belt, water pump, a pulley, crankshaft seal, tensioner spring, and oil pump seals. $423 for parts, the rest was labor. That was at a Toyota dealership in California. It will be cheaper elsewhere. I didn't have much choice. if I locked up the motor wouldn't it be leaking stuff and going crazy lol I dont know a thing about cars

if I locked up the motor wouldn't it be leaking stuff and going crazy lol I dont know a thing about cars

If you locked up the motor, it would do nothing.

If you locked up the motor, it would do nothing.
what do you mean how Can I tell if I locked it up?

"Locked up" means siezed. What's seized? If the crankshaft doesn't rotate when it should, the engine has siezed. Usually that's when the pistons have bonded to the cylinder walls preventing rotation. As Brian R said, turn the key and nothing happens, it's siezed. By nothing he means nothing more than a click from the starter. If your engine still cranks, rotates when you turn the key it has not "locked up".

"Locked up" means siezed. What's seized? If the crankshaft doesn't rotate when it should, the engine has siezed. Usually that's when the pistons have bonded to the cylinder walls preventing rotation. As Brian R said, turn the key and nothing happens, it's siezed. By nothing he means nothing more than a click from the starter. If your engine still cranks, rotates when you turn the key it has not "locked up".wohooo lol thats great news i was so worried about that.. Thanks buddy now i just have to spend a whole lot to get it fixed..

It will add around $200 to the cost but, you might consider having them change the camshaft and crankshaft seals, idler and tensioner pullies and spring while they are in there. Maybe even the oil pump seals (on a V6???). They do wear and create leaks eventually. Be a shame to have to spend nearly the same bucks again to go back in there later just to change a seal or pulley.

Check around for estimates. You could save a couple hundred.

It will add around $200 to the cost but, you might consider having them change the camshaft and crankshaft seals, idler and tensioner pullies and spring while they are in there. Maybe even the oil pump seals (on a V6???). They do wear and create leaks eventually. Be a shame to have to spend nearly the same bucks again to go back in there later just to change a seal or pulley.

Check around for estimates. You could save a couple hundred. lol thats seems like alot for only 200 dollars.. im gonna check around and see what i can come up with tho..

Since all you have to do extra is remove the pulleys and the seals (maybe an hour), it's that plus parts.

Another $200 now or possibly another $800 later. All of those additional parts are under the timing belt cover. The majority of the cost of a timing belt change isn't the belt itself. It's the labor costs of getting access to the belt. If a seal goes bad you'd be charged something close to what a timing belt change would cost since they would have to remove the timing belt cover to get at it. Course there's no guarantee a new seal wouldn't leak but, the odds are pretty good it wouldn't.

Another $200 now or possibly another $800 later. All of those additional parts are under the timing belt cover. The majority of the cost of a timing belt change isn't the belt itself. It's the labor costs of getting access to the belt. If a seal goes bad you'd be charged something close to what a timing belt change would cost since they would have to remove the timing belt cover to get at it. Course there's no guarantee a new seal wouldn't leak but, the odds are pretty good it wouldn't.

ok thanks alot.. this :p website has helped me alot i have learned alot.. thanks guys for anwsering my questions...:p :grinyes: