:eek2: :eek2: :eek2: :eek2:

:eek: Stunning work, i like it a lot.

It is comming alone really well, can't wait to see the finished results, it looks so real :eek:

:eek2:

:thumbup: I am stuck in awe with such detailing you have!!

Very Good Job!

Thanks for the complements guys :cool: One day I want to realy go to town detailing everything on a 206 or anther WRC car. Including an engine, open doors, the works. Considering my slow build rate this may take some time to realise!

Originally posted by COZMO6476
one question, what colors do you use for the exhaust? ive been playing around with various colored clears but have had little luck in recreating the burnt metal look. any info would be greatly appreciated. thanks
Rob

I didn't spend much time on the exhaust, just painted it Testors steel, then sprayed on very thinned down blue and rust in the appropriate areas.

935K2 posted a very useful tutorial here (http://139.81.142.25/vbulletin/showthread.php?s=&threadid=77152&highlight=exhaust) on painting exhausts, including using clear paints. I just bought some Tamiya clear blue and yellow to try on my next project :)

wouldu show us your drill set? I wish to drill holes on my models, wish to learn what tools are required.

Originally posted by suiteR
wouldu show us your drill set? I wish to drill holes on my models, wish to learn what tools are required.

A pin vice or a dremel is most likely the best,

are you wanting to drill "Speed holes" :devil:

Wow! The brakes look wonderful!! I need to get my hands on that Alcad stuff!! Damn, doing a good job on that car!

Wow.....I've built two 206's and after looking at the pics of your car I almost want to pull 'em apart fix some of the details. The dashboard with those switches....:eek2:

Oh yeah, how did you do the switches?

Sorry...still in awe....

Originally posted by suiteR
wouldu show us your drill set? I wish to drill holes on my models, wish to learn what tools are required.

As Jonno said I use a pin vise and a bunch of very small drill bits. Probably a good hardware shop will have them, dunno I piched mine :D Here is photo if you haven't seen one before.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/558497Dcp_0578a.jpg

Also have a dremmel type of tool. The bits aren't as fine as the pin vise. Don't find it to be terribly useful on styrene, because it tends to build up heat and melt the plastic. Excellent on resin and metal parts though. And it is wonderfull for slicing up anything with reckless abandon - if one should feel so inclined :flamer:

Originally posted by Asmenoth
Oh yeah, how did you do the switches?

Sorry...still in awe....
Okay step-by-step

1. Cut and sand off the existing switches
2. Drill out a hole to the required size
3. Paint/spray the dash as normal
4. Daub/dolop a 'dob' of black, silver or whatever paint over the hole, with a brush or toothpick, to represent the switch housing.
5. May have to redrill the hole if the paint has filled it in.
6. Heat stretch sprue to the required thickness.
7. Cut small lenghts of sprue and superglue it in place from behind.
8. Cut to correct lengh.

That is just a rough guide to the basic idea, you could vary it anyway you like to create a lot of different types of toggle switches, rivets, fasteners - whatever.

The first time I ever tried this technique I used thin solder but I found stretched sprue worked better and is cheaper :sun:

Rally raider I just have a quick question

I see that you painted all your parts first before glueing them in place. i just want to ask what type of glue it is because If I use the tamiya cement or crazy glue the paint tend to melt away casuing an ugly spot so I just want to ask what type of glue you use on painted parts thanks

Originally posted by RallyRaider

Okay step-by-step

1. Cut and sand off the existing switches
2. Drill out a hole to the required size
3. Paint/spray the dash as normal
4. Daub/dolop a 'dob' of black, silver or whatever paint over the hole, with a brush or toothpick, to represent the switch housing.
5. May have to redrill the hole if the paint has filled it in.
6. Heat stretch sprue to the required thickness.
7. Cut small lenghts of sprue and superglue it in place from behind.
8. Cut to correct lengh.

That is just a rough guide to the basic idea, you could vary it anyway you like to create a lot of different types of toggle switches, rivets, fasteners - whatever.

The first time I ever tried this technique I used thin solder but I found stretched sprue worked better and is cheaper :sun:

May i also suggest using fuse wire for this, works a treat!

Originally posted by RallyRaider
I didn't spend much time on the exhaust, just painted it Testors steel, then sprayed on very thinned down blue and rust in the appropriate areas.

935K2 posted a very useful tutorial here (http://139.81.142.25/vbulletin/showthread.php?s=&threadid=77152&highlight=exhaust) on painting exhausts, including using clear paints. I just bought some Tamiya clear blue and yellow to try on my next project :)

THanks for the info, i appreciate it.. i will try it on my next project!

Originally posted by God|Zilla168
Rally raider I just have a quick question

I see that you painted all your parts first before glueing them in place. i just want to ask what type of glue it is because If I use the tamiya cement or crazy glue the paint tend to melt away casuing an ugly spot so I just want to ask what type of glue you use on painted parts thanks

Most of the parts are (will be) glued together with cyanoacrylate adhesive - also known as CA, Super or Krazy glue. Regular plastic glue won't work on painted or chromed parts because it works by disolving the polystyrene and welding the plastic together.

The trick with CA glue is to use as little as possible, it has a bad tendency to 'fog' if too much is used. For this reason never use regular CA near clear parts! For them I use either a two part epoxy like Araldite or clear gloss paint. Aparently there are some 'no fog' CA glues availble but I've never seen them.

To glue parts with CA never apply the glue directly to the model. First squeeze a small puddle onto a piece of cardboard or similar scrap then use a toothpick or pin to put just the smallest amount necesary on the parts.

CA has a lot of other great modelling aplications too, like as a gap filler, or adding the 'knobby' bit on the tip of antennas. Interestingly the stuff was first developed for medical applications to close wounds instead of sutures - that is why it will stick your fingers together so well if you're not careful!

Originally posted by COZMO6476


THanks for the info, i appreciate it.. i will try it on my next project!

A pleasure Cozmo - hope you don't mind me calling you that.

Just checked out the links to the Supra in your sig, somehow missed it before. Very nice work! Going well in the competition too.

Tonight I took the time to arrange pretty much all of the pieces that will shortly become a 2000 Rally New Zealand Peugeot 206 and took the below photograph. Been keen to do this for a while, resisting the urge to start assembling things has been very difficult. But now the pic is done and I can merrily commence gluing all those pieces together!

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/241162Dcp_0583a.jpg

You never stop surprising me phil !!!!!!!
keep on this way !!!

Hey, good luck!

nice to see all the pieces laid-out !!!:D

Phil,
you are ready to assembly that die cast!:D :D :D

j/k :)

Originally posted by RallyRaider
Been keen to do this for a while, resisting the urge to start assembling things has been very difficult.

:hehehe: Now that's what I call willpower!

Good pic, makes you realise how many little bits go into these kits. Enjoy the gluing :D

Originally posted by RallyRaider


A pleasure Cozmo - hope you don't mind me calling you that.

Just checked out the links to the Supra in your sig, somehow missed it before. Very nice work! Going well in the competition too.

Cozmo is fine but my real name is Rob, you can call me Rob if you like as well. Astounding work, Phil! i cant wait to see what your next project will be.

Man, I wish I was up to that stage, with any models...:eek:

I am trying to get all the parts painted on my Skyline, so I can glue it together, as the steps say. :D

Back again with an update on the glueing. Chassis and interior are finished, just the body shell to complete.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/425147Dcp_0620a.jpg

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/688270Dcp_0623a.jpg

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/493470Dcp_0624a.jpg

WOW! took my breath away!! :flash:
perfect work you did.

Phil: WOW!

coming along very nicely :D

getting anxious(sp?) to see finished 206

Hi there,

Only recently joined this forum and I have just spent the time reading this whole thread. I have to same I am simply amazed by your work and if you weren't so far away I would buy all the models you make to display in my shop. I am just about to start on the 2002 206 WRC but my modelling standards will never be anywhere near as good as yours. Can't wait to see it when you have assembled it.

Regards

Tim Dunlop
Mad4Models
www.mad4models.com

quick question, did you make the seatbelts?
If so do you have any pointers on how to make a good set?

Thanks

Holy shit! :eek:


Awsome job there Phil, looks soo life like.

can you do a close up shot of the exhaust please? looks quite good in the layout of the parts

Originally posted by God|Zilla168
quick question, did you make the seatbelts?
If so do you have any pointers on how to make a good set?

Thanks

Yeah, made the seatbelts from Tamiya tape. Hardware is off the M&A photoetch set for the 206, as are the front grills and some other bits and pieces.

To make the belts I just stick strips of Tamiya masking tape on some OHP plastic, cut it to appropate width and spray with my airbrush. Then it is just a matter of patience and a good set of tweasers to peal it off and thread everything up. The masking tape sticks to the seats reasonably well by itself but I also add a few small drops of CA glue to make sure it all stays in the right spot.

Originally posted by tazdev
Holy shit! :eek:


Awsome job there Phil, looks soo life like.

can you do a close up shot of the exhaust please? looks quite good in the layout of the parts

Thanks Taz, here is the underside as it looks now. Unfortunately most of the exhaust and drivetrain are covered up. It's probably not correct to have two pipes coming out of the rear muffler into the now single exhaust tip, but I haven't got any references of this part of the car so left it as is.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/410970Dcp_0616a.jpg

And here is a bit higher res shot of the exhaust in one of the previous layout pictures.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/754626Dcp_0421b.jpg

Thank you for the kind words everybody, hope to have the car finished in a week or so. Still a lot of rivets and PE to do on the bodyshell. Took a few more shots of the interior in natural light this morning so here they are.

http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/769583Dcp_0704a.jpg
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/837014Dcp_0705a.jpg
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/901834Dcp_0708a.jpg
http://files.automotiveforums.com/uploads/740656Dcp_0710a.jpg

Phil, you are Da Man! That looks amazing, your attention to detail really shows when it's all glued together.

I can't wait to see the pics of the finished bodyshell.

This is simply amazing stuff man.

Every time I would think: 'ok, this isn't very accurate but it will do' than guys like you or the P-Man (and a lot more of you experts) come up w posts that show me that you can always take it one step further and one step more realistic. So seeing you guys striving for perfection (probably even reaching it too) makes me want to put that little extra work in my models so I have been constantly getting better since I first got in touch w this forum.

You guys rule :ylsuper:ylsuper:ylsuper:ylsuper

:eek: :eek: :eek: :eek: :eek:
unbelievable!! Utter perfection! great job Phil!

Great and clean build Phil!
Even better than last one!:)

you make anything i coudl build look crappy... you are by far one of the best builders i have ever seen.. bow and worship

Originally posted by Colov99
you make anything i coudl build look crappy... you are by far one of the best builders i have ever seen.. bow and worship

Thanks for the complement Colov but please don't put yourself down. I'm sure your stuff is not crappy and even if you feel it is keep trying and improving. There wouldn't be much point going on building more models if each one was perfect. Insted the challenge is to improve with each build. For instance this is my third 206 WRC in a row and each time I have added something extra to try and make things more realistic.

That is my aim with modeling, realism. Others will have different reasons. What's yours? :)

Howwwwwwww!!!
I'm stunned!
Well I'm also building this model, and man mine is a crappppppp.
Altough, I'd like to improve, so I'm using for the first time the Tamiya Clear Coat. When you say that you polish after apply the clear coat, what you use to polish?
Just one more question...how many hours you spent in this model until now?
Thanks and keep the good work.
Nelson

Jealousy, envy, and awe meter is through the roof. This is easily one of the best example of a rally car model I've ever seen. Is there somewhere I could checkout some of your other works, RallyRaider?

Flyingmachine,
Here is RallyRaider's website URL: http://rallycars.topcities.com

Hope you don't mind Phil:)

Ray

EDIT: Hey Phil, your site dead again? I can't get on it

RallyRaider can I be your new best friend?
No really!!
Man you have inspired me to push myself to your level. As well as many others on this board but your attention to detail is amazing!!! :D
First thing I need to do is open up my models first :silly2: haha

Originally posted by freakray
Hey Phil, your site dead again? I can't get on it

Dunno Ray, seems to be working agin now. So fill your boots Flyingmachine!

Originally posted by nconceic
Howwwwwwww!!!
I'm stunned!
Well I'm also building this model, and man mine is a crappppppp.
Altough, I'd like to improve, so I'm using for the first time the Tamiya Clear Coat. When you say that you polish after apply the clear coat, what you use to polish?
Just one more question...how many hours you spent in this model until now?
Thanks and keep the good work.
Nelson

Thanks Nelson! Be very careful with that Tamiya clear - it is great stuff but is a bit too 'hot' for some types of decals.

After clearcoating I sanded lightly with 1500 and 2000 grit wet sandpaper to get rid of the raised edges over the decals and any 'orange peel'. Followed that with a polish with Tamiya Polishing Compound, and finally a buff up with Carnauba Wax.

The Tamiya Compound is good stuff - also works very well to remove scratches from clear parts.

How many hours? I don't know, about two to three months on and off so far.

What kind of seatbeat were you using in this??:smile:

Very nice car but you can put some Carbon Fiber on it ( Scale Motorsport) :bigthumb: :dogpile:

Originally posted by TireGaint
What kind of seatbeat were you using in this??:smile:

Thanks for digging this thread up from the dead! Finished the Pug ages ago.

Surely I must have answered that question somewhere in the thread, maybe not. Can understand why somebody wouldn't want to read the whole thing though, it is damn long!

For the buckles I used the Peugeot 206 M&A photo etched set. Belts are painted Tamiya masking tape.

Completed model is on my website (http://rallycars.topcities.com) or just click the NZ 2000 Peugeot in my signature pic to go to the completed AF thread. Click on other cars to go to their pages :smile:

Originally posted by gt1car
Very nice car but you can put some Carbon Fiber on it ( Scale Motorsport) :bigthumb: :dogpile:

You want more CF? Just about every piece of carbon fibre that can be seen on the real car was CF decaled. You must have missed this post. (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?postid=693183#post693183)