turbo

hi i was thinking of boosting a honda civic, but i heard that if the car is boosted and the engine is not built for turbo then the engine wont last a week. If this is true then what are the engine parts that i need to replace so the engine would be ready for turbo and wont break after a week. I would like to know which parts and price range.

thank you.

Well if it wont last a week, then i dont know whats going on with my GSR...its been almost 2 full years ~300whp. What engine do you have and what kind of power do you want to make?? Also, what kind of budget are you on?

...i love how much bullshit information is passed around these days. In reality, hardly anyone has an idea about turbo setups, yet everyone pretends to be experts. Kinda pisses me off...(not you, but the idiot that told you)

right now iam thinking between to cars acura integra or honda civic, i have one acura integra 94 that i might get so if i get that then turbo is going on that, but i was told by a guy that the engine would not be able to last the power of the boost and it will break, also told that if i want to boost i must get the engine fully built for turbo. i just want something simple not crazy like just to start out with not expensive.

i had another question the acura integra 1994 has a engine swap done by garage 5, but the engine that has been put in is a 1996 would that make problems in the future.

stop listening to the people who are giving you this information. Yes an LS engine can be boosted and it will be just fine. Actually, right now i have a spare turbo setup sitting in my garage for an LS...just fyi

how much would u sell the turbo setup that you have.

how much would u sell the turbo setup that you have.

i was originally hoping for $400+shipping but we can talk about it. Its not the best looking turbo setup in the world, but let me tell you, it will do the trick. I'm selling the K26 turbo, HMT log manifold, Audi 5000 wastegate and a DSM sidemount intercooler. I need to clear out my garage, so right now i'm looking for any reasonable offers. If not, i'm going to use this stuff to build a low-budget setup for my little brother as a graduation/birthday present...i'm so nice :P

where are u located, and the turbo setup has everything i need to turbo a acura integra 1994 rigth, i dont need to buy anything extra.

You need to get a few other things here and there...i can help you get those parts if you like. You're going to need some kind of charge piping...personally i would suggest a large diameter radiator hose because they're not noticeable (sleeper) and they're pressure tested to over 20psi...and cheap. You'll need a BOV and you'll need some way of tuning. Then its up to you to hook up the exhaust to the turbo...bring it to a local welding or exhaust shop and they can do it for you easily. After that, get a set of oil lines and you're pretty much on your way...

BTW, i'm located in Fargo, ND 58102

If the guy was referring to the civic with a D16, they take a little less abuse to break than the B18. If it was a civic with a B16, then he's definitely a moron. I've seen a boost D16Z6 stock longblock and T3 turbo at 9 PSI with the FMIC from a conquest/starion. He had an FMU for fuel management, I forget what injectors I don't think they were stock but only a mild upgrade if not stock. He was pretty darn fast, I'd say 200-225 WHP which is fast in a 92-95 civic.
On the integra, the typical is about 14 PSI is maximum safe on the LS shortblock (or about 300 WHP). IMO the LS is the best engine to boost because it has lower compression to start with so it's safer. You have a bit more margin for error compared the the GSR which will require more tuning and probably more $ for tuning equipment to make it safe to boost 8-10 PSI.

so wat ur saying is that i can put a turbo kit on my acura integra ls and it wont cause any damage or problems to the engine.

so wat ur saying is that i can put a turbo kit on my acura integra ls and it wont cause any damage or problems to the engine.


Right....as long as you do things the right way and get a good tune. Look at my setup for instance

k, one off topic question, does the 1994 acura integra ls come with power steering

it should have powersteering, but people have been known to remove it...i took mine off so i could run a topmount. The topmount is gone now, but my PS is still MIA.

i know we had talked about it a little while back, but if you're interested, my turbo setup is still up for grabs. There is someone from HMT who is pretty interested in buying it so i thought i'd let you know

when ever you boost, its ALWAYS about the tune... will literally make or break the motor..

so wat ur saying is that i can put a turbo kit on my acura integra ls and it wont cause any damage or problems to the engine.

Yes but you need gauges to moniter everything. Boost and wide band O2 are mandatory, EGT is recommended.
Start off with the lowest amount of boost possible, it's usually around 5-7 PSI. Basically if you run a vacuum line straight from a vacuum source to the wastegate actuator (with no boost controller hooked up) it will give you minimum boost. Thats assuming you are running an internal wastegate. If external, get somewhere around a 5 PSI spring to start off with. Watch your gauges and adjust fuel accordingly. To be safe, I run around 11.7-11.8 A/F ratio and 1500-1550 EGT at WOT.
Always start at low boost and get the tune right, and slowly work your way up. Starting out at 12 PSI boost without knowing at all what your A/F ratio is first is a sure way to blow up your engine.

I only run a boost gauge. Now that i know how to do things (like read a wideband and tune accordingly) i would buy a wideband, but i dont think its necessary by any means. Bring it to a good tuner and dont worry about learning to tune or read a wideband

Just because you set it up that way from the tuner doesn't mean it stays that way. And what happens everytime you want to change something? Spend more money and take it to the tuner? A WB isn't even $300 anymore.
Even the weather outside can change your A/F ratio.

Just because you set it up that way from the tuner doesn't mean it stays that way. And what happens everytime you want to change something? Spend more money and take it to the tuner? A WB isn't even $300 anymore.
Even the weather outside can change your A/F ratio.
Ummmm...yes. If you put on different parts, you need it retuned. And weather doesn't effect things all that much, unless you're talking about extreme weather changes. If you get it tuned and drive it around for the summer, you should probably consider getting it tuned again for the winter. Then just save the maps, and reuse them every season. But there isn't enough difference between a 75 degree day and an 85 degree day, to have to keep a close eye on your A/F. Your tune should be set up to handle that kind of thing, just like stock turbocharged cars are.

hmm.. thought id chime in here... Even summer to winter isnt that big of a difference... i run open loop of my wideband on my daily (yes that includes winter) and i only noticed a .5:1 differance... so if you get it tuned in the winter when the air is more dence, it will be fine in the summer wen theair is thinner... youll just run a little richer.

''only'' .5:1 difference? Hmmm, ok then. So how much exactly do you guys pay someone else to ''tune'' your cars?

ya i wont be able to get the turbo because i havent got the car yet, the seller is still thinking

so what turbo do u guess recommend for me to get for a 1994 acura integra ls with a 1996 engine, this my first car and my first time putting turbo in, i really dont know whats all these gauges and stuff u talking about. i just want to get a turbo kit that wont blow my engine, but i been working in a mechanic shop for 6 months. i have done engine work like swaps, but no turbo.

Depends on how much money you have to spend.....either a T3/T4 variant or a GT series if you have over $1K to spend on a turbo. How much?
I'm sure there's plenty of kits out there since you don't know what you need it might be better to do that rather than piece by piece.

ya will i want to get a kit that will go on the acura without anything extra needed and i want a cheap one, not too expensive and one that will work fine with my stock engine. the price has to be under 1k

not possible.... if you go cheap and dont pay extra to tune... youll prolly lose the engine.... a full turbo kit that is designed to go on a factory motor and be "safe" cannot be bought for less than 1000...

Remember one thing... theres Cheap, Fast and Reliable.... but you can only pick 2

will ya i have to take it to get tunned and they need to do stuff with the computer and all that stuff, by extra i mean parts.

with your knowledge.... you cant safely boost a car for less than a grand... wont happen... save your money and do a lot research, then maybe you can boost your car safely

I know this is pretty much a brainlees question, but would it be better to turbo a D16Y7 non-vtec, auto or swap to a D16Y5 vtec-e man.? i know i wont be able to boost it much, im just looking for a little more power, but not too much

ya i know i have to save my money, what type is the acura integra motor like when u guys say for example D16Y7 what is the type for the acura 1996 integra stock engine. I seen turbo kits on eBay, are those any good, because there a lot cheaper then any where else.

The engine in the teg is a B18B1, and they can handle a good bit more power than any D series engine (talking factory shortblocks here)

is the rs and ls same engine or they have different engines, which on is better.

ebay turbo kits are notoriously shitty....dont waste your money. Put it this way: my turbo costs $850, do you think an entire quality setup can be had for less than the price of a turbo?? If yes, then go ahead and find out first hand how well China builds turbo setups

are they all from china on ebay. see i live in canada b.c. and i need to find a turbo kit that is used that is cheap, or one that is on ebay. one more question the blow off valve is the device that makes the air noise when it gets rid of air right.

Yes the LS/RS/GS all have the same engine from 94-01.

The blow off valve's main function is not to make noise, but to release the air when the throttle plate is suddenly close so it doesn't send a shock wave back to the turbo. The air will try to reverse itself, thats bad for a turbo and can damage it if extreme enough.

If you are still deciding which engine is better, the decision goes to the B18a hands down. With that engine you not only get a stronger factory shortblock, but you can also swap on a VTEC head and have yourself a cheap and effective 300whp LS/VTEC for very little money.

will the engine is a stock 1996 acura integra ls.

PWMAN i know that’s what it does, but is the blow valve the thing that makes the air noise.

one more thing is there any way u can adjust the hood of a 1994 Acura Integra, because the hood is higher then the body at the hinges where it connects to the car. The car has no accident but the guy told me you can adjust it, but I just want know if its true.

PWMAN i know that’s what it does, but is the blow valve the thing that makes the air noise.
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Ummm, if you knew what it does that you'd know the answer to that question :screwy:

k i guess that the blow off valve does make that sound

is it true that a full cat back will make it harder for ur car to pass air care