93 Z34 Oil leak under the intake manifold


cville colt
10-26-2007, 08:05 AM
There is a cylinder shaped part 1.75" round with two steps and a freeze plug style cap that is mounted on the back of the 3.4 motor that is ejecting oil.....quarts at a time. It is mounted directly behind and below the intake manifold casting section for the thermostat. There is a distributor style keeper as a hold down. I can move the part (spinning) but I am unable to get the part out. It looks as if the rear head has to be pulled to get this part out.

#1 - I am helping my brother inlaw (keeping peace) but I am a Ford guy and I have never seen this part on a car........What is this part ?

#2 - The Chiltons is no help....Does anyone have an electronic copy of the actual shop repair manual for this car (for future reference)

#3 - Does anyone have suggestions of removing, repairing, replacing this part ?

BEAVIS18
10-26-2007, 09:08 AM
yeah i would like to know how to get that out i have a 92 with a 3.1 and i couldnt get it out

1993z34lumina
11-01-2007, 09:53 PM
There is a cylinder shaped part 1.75" round with two steps and a freeze plug style cap that is mounted on the back of the 3.4 motor that is ejecting oil.....quarts at a time. It is mounted directly behind and below the intake manifold casting section for the thermostat. There is a distributor style keeper as a hold down. I can move the part (spinning) but I am unable to get the part out. It looks as if the rear head has to be pulled to get this part out.

#1 - I am helping my brother inlaw (keeping peace) but I am a Ford guy and I have never seen this part on a car........What is this part ?

#2 - The Chiltons is no help....Does anyone have an electronic copy of the actual shop repair manual for this car (for future reference)

#3 - Does anyone have suggestions of removing, repairing, replacing this part ?
That is your oil pump drive. It works just like an older distributor type motor. I just went through the same problem. It has an O-ring seal that goes bad over time. The oil around it is under pressure and will pump out of the engine when running. Unfortunately that three dollar O-ring will cost a couple of hundred dollars to repair and thats if you do it yourself. You have to remove the rear head to get it out which means you have to get a Head gasket set and also be prepared for there to be no timing marks on the cam gears when you reassemble. I would advise getting the factory shop manuals for your specific car. I have saved a fortune with mine. Hope this helps.

john51md
11-02-2007, 07:59 AM
That is your oil pump drive. It works just like an older distributor type motor. I just went through the same problem. It has an O-ring seal that goes bad over time. The oil around it is under pressure and will pump out of the engine when running. Unfortunately that three dollar O-ring will cost a couple of hundred dollars to repair and thats if you do it yourself. You have to remove the rear head to get it out which means you have to get a Head gasket set and also be prepared for there to be no timing marks on the cam gears when you reassemble. I would advise getting the factory shop manuals for your specific car. I have saved a fortune with mine. Hope this helps.

I dont know how much difference there is between a 2.8/3.1/3.4...... BUT, on both my 2.8/3.1 i had to do nothing but remove throttle body to get the drive out. No way would you have to remove heads anyway, maybe at most intake..Heads are on each side.. Pump drive is in the middle right?> unless a 3.4 is totally different .
If its stuck, use a thin screwdriver under it as a wedge, tapping it in lightly, while squirting a penetrating oil under it, keep working it and it will loosen up.
Yes there is a O ring on it, you can replace it, and/or put new o ring and also a flat waher type very thin gasket under top lip as well. I did that on both mine, a double seal, and works perfect, fact one i didnt even bother to replace O ring, just added a gasket (gasket like they used on older distrubutors) Never a leak..

1993z34lumina
11-02-2007, 02:13 PM
I dont know how much difference there is between a 2.8/3.1/3.4...... BUT, on both my 2.8/3.1 i had to do nothing but remove throttle body to get the drive out. No way would you have to remove heads anyway, maybe at most intake..Heads are on each side.. Pump drive is in the middle right?> unless a 3.4 is totally different .
If its stuck, use a thin screwdriver under it as a wedge, tapping it in lightly, while squirting a penetrating oil under it, keep working it and it will loosen up.
Yes there is a O ring on it, you can replace it, and/or put new o ring and also a flat waher type very thin gasket under top lip as well. I did that on both mine, a double seal, and works perfect, fact one i didnt even bother to replace O ring, just added a gasket (gasket like they used on older distrubutors) Never a leak..
Not to sure on the other engines, but on the 3.4L DOHC the rear head has an ear w/ bolt hole for intake manifold that sticks out right over the oil pump drive and only alows you to lift it up about 1/4 of an inch if that. I just did get my car put back together from this problem last weekend. here is the instructions from the factory shop manual (pg.# 1-6a9-54)

OIL PUMP DRIVE ASSEMBLY

Remove or Disconnect
1.Right (rear) cylender head. Refer to "cylinder head" in this section
2.Mounting bolt and clamp.
3.Oil pump drive assembly.
4.O-ring.
Install or Connect
1.O-ring
Lubricate with engine oil.
2.Oil pump drive assembly.
Lubricate drive gear with grease.
3.Clamp and mounting bolt.
Tighten bolt to 36Nm (27 ft lb)
4.Right (rear) cylinder head. Refer to "cylinder head" in this section.

This seams kind of vague, but it's just how it says it in the book. The book takes you all over the place to get the steps involved before this point.

You can get these books on auction sites. I won mine for less than 30.00 w/shipping. If you can get the books than you can do it yourself and save a fortune. The instructions are really step by step.

richtazz
11-02-2007, 03:20 PM
Rather than removing the cylinder head (stupid design), loosen the hold down clamp bolt and raise it up as high as you can. Then use a little brake clean on a rag (don't spray it down in the engine) and wipe away the oil. Take a thin bead of Black RTV and run around the block mating surface. Allow the oil pump drive housing to fall back in the block, and seat it on the bead of RTV but don't tighten it down yet. Allow the RTV to set for about 30-45 min, then put the hold down clamp back on and tighten her up.

john51md
11-03-2007, 07:51 AM
Rather than removing the cylinder head (stupid design), loosen the hold down clamp bolt and raise it up as high as you can. Then use a little brake clean on a rag (don't spray it down in the engine) and wipe away the oil. Take a thin bead of Black RTV and run around the block mating surface. Allow the oil pump drive housing to fall back in the block, and seat it on the bead of RTV but don't tighten it down yet. Allow the RTV to set for about 30-45 min, then put the hold down clamp back on and tighten her up.

If you do indeed have to remove a head on a 3.4 that is the stupidist thing i ever heard of.... I for one would find a way to seal it without doing all that, as long as it can be lifted least 1/4".. it an be sealed some way.
I thinki i would make a gasket, cut one side thru, feed it around, cover in silicone and rebolt it down, what would you have to loose?
Least the 3.1/2.8 will come out with only removing throttle body.. Sheesh..

jeffcoslacker
11-03-2007, 09:30 AM
If you do indeed have to remove a head on a 3.4 that is the stupidist thing i ever heard of.... I for one would find a way to seal it without doing all that, as long as it can be lifted least 1/4".. it an be sealed some way.
I thinki i would make a gasket, cut one side thru, feed it around, cover in silicone and rebolt it down, what would you have to loose?
Least the 3.1/2.8 will come out with only removing throttle body.. Sheesh..

the 3.4 DOHC shares a block with the other engines, but has massive twincam heads over it...lotta things are very hard to access on it...

http://www.techvelocity.com/gtp/dohcmag.jpg

john51md
11-04-2007, 06:56 AM
the 3.4 DOHC shares a block with the other engines, but has massive twincam heads over it...lotta things are very hard to access on it...

http://www.techvelocity.com/gtp/dohcmag.jpg

Yes but still, the heads on each side, oil drive in middle, wasnt any need to make it so hard, i thought it has same block as a 3.1 .. why i couldnt imagine it not coming out. Im sure ill never buy a 3.4, I thought about putting one in my 89 Z 24, but i think if i ever go that route, ill use a 3.8

richtazz
11-05-2007, 11:44 AM
The 3.4 DOHC is the biggest POS, badly designed and hardest to work on engine GM ever put in a car. The Labor guide for changing an alternator for instance is 8.9 hours. The timing belt that is supposed to be changed every 60k requires special tools and is nearly impossible for a DIY to do. Finally, the upper plenum has to be removed to change the rear spark plugs. Enough said on it's stupid design?!?!?! Avoid a car with this boat anchor engine at all costs.

jeffcoslacker
11-05-2007, 04:43 PM
It's a popular swap with Fiero enthusiasts...imagine trying to work on one in a Fiero?

Easiest to drop the whole cradle out of the car and work with it on the ground....

Hammerli
11-19-2007, 10:03 PM
Done this same job on my 1992 Z-34. You have two options.

OPTION 1: Pull the back head off to fully remove the oil pump shaft drive. Take it to the dealer and they will give you the correct o-ring and another gasket that will go between the oil pump shaft and block. If you go this route you'll also need to remove the timing belt and have all the special tools required. I did this since I wanted to put a new belt on after buying the vehicle.

OPTION 2: Loosen the hold down clamp bolt and raise it up as high as you can. Make a cut in the round gasket and slide it around the base between the oil pump shaft and block. Lay a heavy bead of black RTV and tighten the clamp down. Shouldn't leak anymore and this is what many GM mechanics would do when working on these leaks at the dealership.

WindyCityKid

MoparEd
11-19-2007, 11:27 PM
I just raised the cap as high as i could get it and cleaned the area really well and jam packed it with JB Weld. The cap will spin freely with the retaining clip off , so you can get loads of jb weld in there. Mind you, Thats probally not the best way to do it, but its the way I did it lol.

Ed

Add your comment to this topic!