1991 PA rear shock replacement. - air hose

I'm trying to install new rear shocks on my 1991 PA. I can't get the alc hose disconnected from the old shock. I've removed the clip pin and got the boot off the nipple and part way down the hose but cannot get the hose to pull out of the connector. Is it rusted in or is there something else I need to do? If rusted in how do I repair to connect to my new monroe sensa-traks?
Don

Correct they are probably rusted particulary where we both live, Chestertown for me, B'ston LK. for you. Anyway try soaking the fitting in PB Blaster or such overnite, then twist and pull at the same time.

I'm an [old fart] still using liquid wrench.I sprayed it tonight for about the fourth time today and will try again tomorrow. Tks for the come back. I was afraid there was some secret connector I was'nt aware of in there.If I can't get it out can I cut the line, add a new ferrule on the end of the shortened hose [what kind] and reconnect to new shocks.
my mailing address is ballston lake but we actually live in village of jonesville, town of clifton park between exit 10 and 11 northway. A friend of mine Bill Neiger has a camp trailer in the park right across the road from the loon lake dam. Don't by chance know him do you, he's been there for 20+ yrs? Rpo's are driving me nuts. hot z28 says my list should include g67 for the ALC but the code isn't there. the compressor and air line sure are! List includes code for fixed radio antenna but car has electric automatic antenna. Go figure.
Don

Back in those days, GM's rpo codes were somewhat inaccurate all Pa's had auto level control and power antennas. I was a SM for Olds in those days, on LI. I know his trailer, fish on Loon all the time, it's right down the block.

Monroe makes these kits that might help. You can use the T-fitting to join the new line to the old. Might need 2 of the AK29's to do both sides.


AK29 (90 degree elbow) $5.44 @ Advance
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/mon/ak-29.jpg

AK16 (straight) $5.48 @ Advance
http://www.partsamerica.com/product_images/img/mon/ak-16.jpg

Good info!

Does this kit include the caps, clips,connector and new hose so I can run new lines to the new shocks and replace the old ones? Thanks for the info.
Don

Got any suggestion on how to remove the two lower shock bolts? I've sprayed them with liquid wrench and got the nuts ready to come off but the bolts won't move. Had to remove the rear seat to get at the top front bolt nut!
Don

The AK29 kit has:
2 caps that are molded onto about 5 feet of the air line
2 nuts & O rings to connect the line to the T-connector
T connector which has a schrader valve but can be used connect 2 sections of line.

My son & I recently changed the struts on his 99 Bonnevile & had trouble removing those bolts. My 500 ft/lb impact wouldn't budge them - the 6 inch extension might have absorbed some of the impact. We were able to get the driver's side off with lots of PB Blaster & me (220 lbs) bouncing on a breaker bar.

The passenger side gave us a lot more trouble. The impact didn't work. Bouncing on the breaker bar didn't work. We even tried putting the breaker bar on a jackstand & lowering the floor jack to use the weight of the car. Didn't work & is dangerous. We finally double nutted the other end of the bolt & my son used the impact while I bounced on the breaker bar. That worked. The car must be properly supported if you try bouncing on a breaker bar.

I also considered removing the control arm & strut as an assembly & using a press at work to remove the bolt.

Thanks. Looks like I have a battle ahead of me! I haven't even started on the passenger side. are the bolts threaded all the way through or just on the nut end?
Don

They are shouldered, the threads are not the full length. Muscle or impact gun, or heat if necessary.

Salt & rust suck! Fortunately, we don't have that problem where I live. I normally use a 1/2 impact on the lower bolts without a problem. Before removing the bolts, I use the impact to spin the bolts in the strut to loosen any residual rust, then they are easy to knock out with a drift punch. Don't forget, these bolts need to be torqued to the specified setting, otherwise the strut will shift and of course alignment will go to heck. Remember, alignment is mandatory after strut replacement. Usually, when the shop aligns the rear, they will loosen the bolts anyway to set camber and then tighten them with a hevy duty impact wrench. If you know of a good alignment shop, they will use a torque wrench!

Thanks for all the help! Finally the driver side shock is out but I still can't get the air hose to pull out. Am considering cutting it off and replacing with one of the AK29 kits mentioned above. Does anyone have another suggestion before I cut the line? Where do the lines for each side meet to connect to the line coming back from the compressor? What kind of connection?
Don

You have a single line from the compressor going under the car to the "hump" under the rear suspension, near the gas tank. While looking under there, you will find a "T" where the single line will branch off to the two sides.

If you can get the AK29 kit, it will have enough hose and fittings to run from the strut to the "T" if that is the way, you choose to do it. If you would rather cut the hose near the old rubber strut fitting, you can buy 1/8 in tubing unions at your local hardware store, similar to the 1/4 in fittings used for a refrigerator ice-maker water line. You can also use brass compression fittings, if that is all you can find. Max air pressure on this system, rarely exceeds 30-40 psig, so we are not talking about high-pressure fittings.

If it were me, I would install the new rubber boots and clips from the AK29 kit and cut the hose about 1-ft from the strut (where the line would make a turn under the wheel well, then use the unions to join the new line, to the old.

BTW, the AK29 kit and the AK16 kits are two different animals. The AK16 kit has threaded fittings to attach to the struts and the AK29 has the rubber boot with a spring clip retainer and a Schrader valve, fill tip. Don’t confuse the two, you want the AK29. You will not need the Schrader valve if you continue to use the ALC compressor, it is used only for a manual fill station, for those who choose to eliminate the compressor.

thanks for the input Hot z28. Is there any easy way to get the top bolts back up into the tower and lined up with the top bolt holes? just looking ahead and trying to forsee coming difficulties. Two people?
Don

Normally, I place the strut in the lower saddle and put an extra jack under the A-Arm, while jacking up the A-Arm and guiding the strut up and into the bolt holes. Of course, it would be easier if you have someone helping, all you have to do is have them hold the strut in place while you put the nuts on the studs.

I went to two hardware stores yesterday and called a plumbing supply house today looking for the 1/8 in couplings with no luck. Today when I got the ak29 at advance auto I asked if they had them and they did! Let others know if they have this problem. Could have saved some time and travel had i known/asked in advance [pun intended].
thanks again for all the help,
Don

Thank you to all who contributed to this thread! Shocks are in, ALC reconnected and car is in for alignment. My wife is pleased with her new ride. Thanks again,
Don

This thread has been helpful, but I'm stuck. Anyone have any last tips on drifting those bolts out before I just drop it off at the shop? Managed to get the nuts off but the lower bolts won't budge, not even turn. So far: Heat, penetrating oil, decent 1/2" impact wrench, me (175#) sitting ~3ft out on breaker and cheater, air chisel, hammer, hammer with punch, and swearing. What are the "pros" gonna do if I drop the thing off? Damn salt... any ideas appreciated!

try PBlaster and be sure to spray both ends of the bolt [ threaded end and bolt head end also between the strut and mounting bracket]. Thread on the nuts until flush with end of bolt and hammmer with as much as you can get with a 2 lb sledge, then get on the bolt head end with long [mine is 25"] breaker bar and try to move the bolt head in BOTH directions as if you were both tightening and loosening. It is shouldered inside the sleeve so you are really not tightening/ loosening just turning. Once you move it even a fraction add more PBlaster and keep working it. Don't forget to try tapping [hit as hard as you can] the nut end in between. We broke three sockets including an impact socket. Be sure to get square on the bolt head. We used both an extension and swivel. Now some good news on the right side it took us less than 30 min to loosen and remove the bolts. In less than two hours we had the right shock out and the new one installed! Good luck.

Don