Ok, I have had this problem for a while now. I have replaced the LOM brand new so I know that is out of the figure for tracing down the problem. I did a continuity test on the wires and all SEEM to be ok. I went through the run down on this chart http://autorepair.about.com/library/illustrations/bl905lib.htm and I can not find out what the problem is. I was told the trailer relays could be bad, located on right hand side(passenger side) in the rear quarter panel. I replaced them also. Only thing I have not done is replace the VIC. So, my conclusion is the VIC is bad or I still have a bad wire somewhere that the continuity test is not showing, I admit to not knowing exactly what to look for while doing a continuity test but DMM from LOM to trailer connector looked good. With so many wires running into one another from the wiring diagram I have I figure it is possible for the signal to still come through anyway. Really need a better wiring diagram from the VIC to the back lights than what I have. My diagram ONLY shows ONE wire going to the VIC from the rear of the vehicle. Is that correct?
Any suggestions and help would be nice, ATM I can not afford to take it to a garage and honestly don't want to. I want to tackle this on my own, sure a lot can relate to that. Also, it is just something I know is not working right and I want it to, so no help is wanted to tell me how to disable the VIC from showing the "Rear Lamp Failure" message.

Oh, thought I would also ask. Anybody know exactly what color the wire color is for pin 23 on the VIC? Not sure exactly how they run so color would be easier if possible.

The RLF message has always been a real PITA, have you checked all the bulbs to make sure they are all working, and also check to make sure they are the right bulb, just because the bulb works doesn't mean it's the right size bulbs, like a 2057 and 1157 look alike but actually give off different apperage and this is what the LOW looks at to see if a bulb is bad.

all bulbs that are affected by the LOW, License Plate, Tail Light/Stop Light, High mount Stop Light, Turn Signals, Reverse, Sidemarkers (front)... Check all these bulbs to be sure they are working and also check to make sure they are the right bulb, the bulbs should be listed in the owners manual.

If you have done all that and are sure you have the right bulbs, then I woudl start at the VIC, If you remove the VIC take it apart and loot at the pin-out connector where it gets soldered to the board, here you will most likely find a bad spot, these solder points break, I just fixed an on going COOLANT SENSOR BAD message about a month or 2 ago by fixing one of these solder points.

Ok, I see you said the front side markers will also cause the VIC to pop up with this message, are there any other lights I need to know about cause I have replaced ALL the bulbs in the rear of the vehicle with new bulbs of the right kind. I did not know the front side markers also effected this and will check them out as well. Do the front turn signals effect the RLF message as well? Just for the heck I will check all of them. Headlights would not effect this message though, right? I did replace them with super blues but I have had this message every since I purchased the Jeep and thought it would be something simple to track down....how wrong was I, lol.

No, the headlights will not cause this message to come up, I have 20,000k HID which are very BLUUUEEEEE and bright.

I do believe the turn signals do affect the RLF message, I would just check them all to be sure and be sure they are the right bulb.

I was checking my jeep out this morning(only time wife has left parked long enough for me to check) and I do have a parking light out on the driver side(how long that's been out I have no idea). Anyway I am going to get 2 new bulbs and replace them both and keep the one good one as a back up unless it is the wrong bulb then it will get chucked in the trash.

Update:
Well, I checked bulbs in front and just went around and double checked all lights again. I did have 3 blown bulbs in the front, 1 driver side marker and 2 side turn signal. Anyway I replaced them and checked all lights and no good. Still have the same problem but I am really beginning to think I have a short somewhere cause for some strange reason I noticed my power antenna was not working and checked fuse and it was blown, which according to the print out I have of the fuses the trailer towing relays also operate off the same fuse. So, al the time and trouble I am still at square one. One more question though.... I was told that the fog lights could also be sending a bad error to the VIC, any truth to that cause the wiring diagrams I have seen they should not have any effect on the VIC showing RLF message. I need to replace one.

Uh I'm pretty sure it's the ground, I had the same problem with mine.

That was what I am thinking as well. Also, maybe give me a clue on how to track down a bad ground.

Any information from you guys that have solved this problem will be greatly appreciated. I too have the rear lamp failure message for a long time. I troubleshot today and found both license plate lites out - relamped and now they work. My problem is the driver side rear marker and tail lights do not work. I swapped out with two known good bulbs and still no lite on the left side. Brake lites work good.
Can I bypass the LOM to see if that does anything?
If I have a bad ground somewhere causing only the left marker and tail lites to not work I'd like to know where I can find that ground.
My power antenna motor still works, so I know I am not inop in that curcuit.
Please help.

Thanks Prof

Did you try pulling out the lamp outage module and plugging the two harness together?


Any information from you guys that have solved this problem will be greatly appreciated. I too have the rear lamp failure message for a long time. I troubleshot today and found both license plate lites out - relamped and now they work. My problem is the driver side rear marker and tail lights do not work. I swapped out with two known good bulbs and still no lite on the left side. Brake lites work good.
Can I bypass the LOM to see if that does anything?
If I have a bad ground somewhere causing only the left marker and tail lites to not work I'd like to know where I can find that ground.
My power antenna motor still works, so I know I am not inop in that curcuit.
Please help.

Thanks Prof

Did you try pulling out the lamp outage module and plugging the two harness together?

That's what I was asking if I could do. Plugging the two cannon plugs in together will bypass the module, but I didn't want to attempt it if I am going to damage anything. So I'm OK with trying to bypass the LOM?

Prof

It wont damage anything, it may get your lights working, but the vic will still say lamp out.


That's what I was asking if I could do. Plugging the two cannon plugs in together will bypass the module, but I didn't want to attempt it if I am going to damage anything. So I'm OK with trying to bypass the LOM?

Prof

I have done just about all the checking I can do on my LOM and VIC. Everything seems ok, I am still thinking it is a poor ground but all I know is it is located somewhere around the passenger side kick panel. More help tracing down the ground would be nice if any have any thoughts.

Get out the multimeter and test your grounds at the light sockets, might be a good place to start.

I have done just about all the checking I can do on my LOM and VIC. Everything seems ok, I am still thinking it is a poor ground but all I know is it is located somewhere around the passenger side kick panel. More help tracing down the ground would be nice if any have any thoughts.

I know I asked this a hundred times it seems, "How do you check the ground"? I mean I know you can run another wire to a known good ground source but how does one check the original ground wire for the lighting without doing that? Any settings on a multi meter to help with this? Only way I know is visually checking to see if all ground wires are secure and not rusted or anything like that. According to the wiring diagrams the ground wires all lead back to a single vehicle ground located SOMEWHERE around the passenger side kick panel, that is the ground I am looking for with no success. A bunch of wires are there and the diagrams only show the lighting system and nothing else, which by looking at all the wires must be other systems running to the same area. I was thinking that the bunch of wires that are there must lead off with another main ground to a good body ground.

Do this with the light switch turned off.

You need to use the multimeter continuity setting (omega symbol). Check your manual for the ground wire color codes so that you know what wire to probe. Take one lead off the multimeter and place it on the bare part of the ground wire or in the socket. The other lead of the multimeter you would place
on a bare metal part of the body or frame. A low multimeter reading means all is good, no reading means a broken wire. If you have broken wire simply tap onto another ground wire and you're good to go.


I know I asked this a hundred times it seems, "How do you check the ground"? I mean I know you can run another wire to a known good ground source but how does one check the original ground wire for the lighting without doing that? Any settings on a multi meter to help with this? Only way I know is visually checking to see if all ground wires are secure and not rusted or anything like that. According to the wiring diagrams the ground wires all lead back to a single vehicle ground located SOMEWHERE around the passenger side kick panel, that is the ground I am looking for with no success. A bunch of wires are there and the diagrams only show the lighting system and nothing else, which by looking at all the wires must be other systems running to the same area. I was thinking that the bunch of wires that are there must lead off with another main ground to a good body ground.

Continuity setting on my DMM only gives a beep I think, will check again and I did do a continuity test once before and checked out good but beeped irregular not steady which makes me think it is a rusted or corroded ground. Would I need to take bulbs out also? Was thinking the continuity test could be running backwards through bulbs and rest of system causing the DMM to not get a good signal.

The best thing to do is to take the bulb out so that you can probe the socket.
The bulb acts like a resistor, electricity always travels down the path of least resistance. Plus the light switch will break the circuit in the off position.



Continuity setting on my DMM only gives a beep I think, will check again and I did do a continuity test once before and checked out good but beeped irregular not steady which makes me think it is a rusted or corroded ground. Would I need to take bulbs out also? Was thinking the continuity test could be running backwards through bulbs and rest of system causing the DMM to not get a good signal.

I have done just about all the checking I can do on my LOM and VIC. Everything seems ok, I am still thinking it is a poor ground but all I know is it is located somewhere around the passenger side kick panel. More help tracing down the ground would be nice if any have any thoughts.

The ground you are looking for (for the tail lights) is located in what's called the right rear kick panel. It basically opposite of, and a bit more aft of, the Lamp Outage Module. You have to open up the panel by loosening the lower and upper trim pieces, and peeling inward the kick panel. The ground located just forward of the right rear tail light.

My left rear running lights (upper running, and side locator) were dead and swapping out with good bulbs confirmed I had a problem. I ohm'd out the left rear tail light harness and had a short somewhere in the harness in the light blue and light blue / white wires. $15 later at the junkyard and my tail light problem is fixed.

I still have the rear lamp failure message, though.

Prof