Page updated on 06-23-2018

RX7 Info Summary ~

09-19-2007, 06:45 PM
Alright just to answer some very basic questions for you guys.

FD3S ~ This Rx7 is known as the 3rd and final generation of the Rx7. It is probably what you know of as an Rx7 if you saw one on the road. It was produced from 1992 to 2002. The USA models only came in from 1993 to 1995 as they were very limited due to the united states dot regulations. There are types ranging from the touring all the way to the highest level the Spirit R. They came in 3 series 4, 5 & 6. The series four came with 255bhp the 5 came with 265 and the final came with 280ps.The engine is a sequential twin turbocharged rotary. The engine code is 13B-Rew.

Note: THE FD3S ONLY COMES IN SEQUENTIAL TWIN-TURBO FORM STOCK IF ANYONE TELLS YOU IT COMES N/A THEY ARE FULL OF IT! If the car is non-sequential that probably means the owner went cheap on it and just wanted some more power but be weary as this is a good indication of what type of owner you are dealing with. If the car is a single turbo that means it probably has been raced or beaten heavily on. The single turbo allows more boost at a more effecient rate. It also improves reliability due to the fact the stock solinoids (AKA. The rats-nest) are elimated. Keep in mind NO Rx7 owner makes his/her FD single turbo just for reliability its is only done when the owner wants real power & performance.FC3S ~ This is the second generation Rx7. It has more of a boxy appearance. It was produced from 1986 all the way up to 1992. These models came with the option of N/A or Turbo. The FC had 2 series unlike its brothers. The two series it came in series 4 and 5 were not to much apart except the series 5 had lighter rotors and had an addition 20 hp making it now 201 bhp in the turbo model from the previous series 4 turbo. The engine was and still is a 2 rotor 13B-VTEI N/a or the optional 13B-Re (Single Turbo). It is also the only Rx7 to come with option of being a convertible. FB3S/SA22 ~ This is the first generation of the Rx7 series. The series produced were 1,2 and 3. The series one came Carbed and loaded with a 2 rotor N/a. The engine was 12A which has a smaller rotors compared to its older brothers. The series 2 came also carbed with a tid bit more power and 4 disc brakes to help control it. The series 2 had the added feature of an LSD an lighter bumpers. The final series of the SA Rx7 was the added feature of fuel injection. It also came with the driver in mind as it was equipped with larger disc brakes, stiffer springs and even a heavy duty oil cooler. This is the series that started the legend known today as the RX7. 20B cosmo swap ~ A popular modification to the 3rd Gen RX-7 and sometimes the 2nd gen Fc is the substitution of a 20B ( (2.0 litre) 3-rotor engine taken from the Eunos Cosmo ( in place of the stock 13B (1.3 litre) 2-rotor engine. This swap can add between 500-650cc depending on the engine. Many aftermarket performance houses sell conversion kits with the 20B engine, such as Pettit Racing and Gotham Racing. Such 3-rotor configurations typically produce 450 rwhp and a top speed of well over 200 mph. While critics claim that any 13B ( 2-rotor RX-7 can be highly tuned to achieve this level of performance, the difference is in daily drivability and reliability that makes the 20B ( conversion superior to the stock 13B motor at those high horsepower levels. Rebuilds ~ This is when the seals in the rotary engine blow or the owner just feels it's time. Seals that need to be replaced when a rebuild is needed are the coolant seals. The AVERAGE life of a forced inducted rotary (FD3S & Some FC models) is around 80,000 miles or about 135-140,000 kilometers before needing a full rebuild. If taken correct care (In. Reliability mods) of the car you can get over 100,000 miles out of them. The rebuild process is very short and should only take a professional shop about a day to do, however there's usually a waiting list for highend shops like Gotham Racing & Pettit Racing. The typical turn around time is still less then a 2 weeks at most. Proffesional rebuids lead me to a very shady topic which is not discussed and is probably the average V8 owners worst nightmare. That is the invention of different seals other then your average mazda 2mm seals. They make 3MM seals which supposedly last a bit longer and can handle ALOT more abuse at high RPM's. The 3MM seal is mostly used in conjuction with whats known as a PORT (Read PORTING). The effect of the right seal size combined with the right port can lead to huge hp numbers and very fast spool time. The last thing about seals which very few owners of the 7 do, because it is not documented and can be very costly is the ceramic seal. Definetly the most infamous style seal, the Ceramic seal was invented to last up to twice as long as a conventonal urthane seal and take 2-5x the stress load. This seal is the ultimate in the rotary racing world with it's unique materials it can handle the rotaries worst enemy... heat. (Ceramic is great when it comes to high heat) The ceramic seals do come in 3mm as well in case your wondering. Keep in mind Ceramic (Ceramix) are amazing but also very costly and not just a play mod. They are for the serious enthusiast who has money to play with and time to race. Porting ~ A port job is done when an owner is pushing significantly more boost then stock. A port is basically boring out the stock intake and exhaust ports/runner and making them bigger depending on what modifactions are done and how much power is desired. This is usually done in accompliss with a single turbo conversion. Since the single turbo is usually signifacantly larger then the stock turbos it requires more flow and even less back pressure. Since the invention of the rotary one of its flaws or dis-advantages compared to a cylinder engine is that it cannot be BORED & Stroked over. The rotary engine cannot be increased in cubic engine size by such things as internal honing etc. This flaw leaves us owners with two options, the first is something all V8 owners dread which is known as a 20B swap (See Cosmo 20B swap for more info). The second is a port, a port in cylinder terms is like doing a 6 angle valve job but the increase in performance is so significant it's probably the equivalent of adding another 1-2 valves per cylinder! There are 4 different style ports that almost all major Rotary tuning shops will provide. The 5th but done very rarely is the peri-port. Peripheral Ports are beyond what most shops do but they are hands down the most insane modifacation to a rotary besides a turbo. The hp gained from a peri port can be enormous (100-400hp) depending on the other modifactions done. Even the sound of a PP alone is enough to leave the competition shaking where they stand.

STREET/MILD EXTEND PORT ~ Arguably the most commonly used porting style is the Street or mild extend port, a design which tends to meet the needs of most enthusiastic rotary newcomers. This is because the design is not afflicted by side effects such as poor idling characteristics and peaky power bands. In fact the only thing you will notice is the indistinguishable loss of bottom eng torque. However the performance gained is considerable. This mod only requires the engine builder to alter the shape of the inlet ports as well as to "clean up" the inlet tracts. A Street ported engine with a reasonable exhaust should be expected to produce 150-160 horsepower at the flywheel.

Large Extend Port ~ Also known as the aggressive street port, modifications are restricted to opening up the original inlet ports while paying more attention to configuration and contour. The Same applies to the inlet tracts and for this the exhaust ports are enlarged - perhaps by as much as 50% over standard. The result is longer port timing which moves the torque curve higher up in the rev range. Some low down torque is lost but mid to high gain certainly outweighs any complaints. A well executed large extend port is considered to be the limit for genuine street use; The engine runs smoothly and power is relatively progressive. A good job should provide you with around 200hp at least 50hp over the street port.

Bridge Port ~ In essence, bridge porting only ever came into existence to accommodate the racing class requirement. This is a radical modification in which an extra eyebrow is cut above the original and heavily revised existing port. Drivability is compromised particularly in cruise mode. For example when driving at 60km/h the engine kicks around like a kangaroo, however is smoothes out during both acceleration and deceleration.
The improved air-flow increases top-end power dramatically with a noticeable power band peaking around 8,000rpm. The power of a Bridgeport can be expected to be around the 280hp mark, but is largely dependent on the choice of intake and exhaust systems. Unfortunately for street cars, faster normally means louder. Another trademark of the Bridgeport (and larger ported engines) is the very rough idle. This occurs because at low gas speeds (idling, cruising etc) excess exhaust is allowed to enter the inlet port, which in turn dilutes the intake vacuum causing the engine to hunt. This is what gives those quick rotaries that Waaa Waaa Waaa noise when there sat next to you at the traffic lights.

The "J" port ~ This is the biggest port you can have before switching to peripheral porting (well not exactly as a monster port is possible but costs more than just buying two brand new peripheral ported housings from Mazda, so is therefore not feasible as a port class). This is virtually the same as a bridge only the second port has been made even bigger. One drawback of this design is that the secondary port is extremely close to the water jacket and has a very bad tendency to break through flooding the engine with coolant! This reliability depends also on how well built the engine is. As I have seen J Ports go on past the 80 000km mark. These engine hate idling even more than the bridge ports and won't idle much below 1500rpm. The power band is also peakier than the bridge with the power band staring at about 6500 - 7000rpm and going through to about 10 000rpm. I personally think this type of port is too big for road use as I have driven one. At 100kms/h I had to stick the car in fourth rather than fifth as the car was jerking back and fourth like crazy. One good think though is the speeds you can reach (provided your not using steel apex seals), I have been told that the car I drove can get up round the 240km/h mark. I myself only took it up to 195km/h then I got a bit scared as there was a tiny bit of slack in the steering! Fuel economy on these engines is absolutely shocking, with a set of 48-50mm Webbers fuel economy is about 4k to the liter. But the power output cant be argued with. 300-350hp for a normally aspirated engine running on unleaded is pretty good!

Peripheral port ~ The most These engines were even banned in racing. The peripheral port is the ultimate form of porting for a rotary engine without turning to forced induction. Instead of conventional metal shaping with a grinder, the side ports are actually filled and completely new circular – peripheral – intake ports are fitted directly through the rotor housing and is easily identified on an engine by its tubular intake manifold. This modification has potential for over 350hp out of a 12A N/A but as it is developed for racing, exhibits very poor drivability, fuel consumption and requires an exhaust system deigned to produce excessive noise. Like the J port, the PP produces its maximum power past 8,000rpm creating increased stress and wear on components.Reliablility modifactions ~ Here's where people go wrong. Unfortunatley for you the Rx7 isn't exactly a honda, you can't just throw stuff in and see what it does... It is a tempermental bastard in plain english. If it doesn't like something your wallets going to hear about it before you hit boost again. So here's a simple break down of what TO DO first before you start your conquest for speed & performance. First off you need replace before you add. Pick up these things before anything else.

AST Tank ~ The AST tank also known as an Air seprator tank is very vital in keeping heat down. (I strongly recommend pettit racings ast which is fairly cheap) The stock ast is cheap and plastic, Installation only tanks about 10 minutes. The rotaries extreme heat will eventually crack the stock and could lead to a blown seal :frown: So which would you rather have? The choice is clear.

Silicon Hoses ~ The stock hoses get brittle and don't like the heat so it's best to get those out of the way ASAP. You can pick them up from for about 120-130 shipped to your door. Installation is about 5-7 hours because there's alot of hoses an tedious stuff to line in the engine of the 7.

Intake ~ You will love this mod. It improves power & mpg as well. Your engine response will be alot quicker. Why I recommend this is because it clears out about half your engine bay and lets heat escape alot faster. Your top end pull will be alot more powerfull and the noise is noticeable too. The best one out is the pettit TKT intake but I would just go with either apexi or HKS intakes.

Cat-back ~ The stock cat-back actaully hurts the seven being it's so restrictive. Pick up a nice dual-tip from Racing-Beat will keep the stock look and imrpove hp. Expect about a 15 crank hp gain from that alone. It also will kill about 15-20 lbs off the car for all you track junkies. The flow is also improved greatly as well as the sound tone.

Downpipe ~ Some recommend this as the first mod but it doesn't matter since your stock anyways. The Downpipe is very crutial in letting your turbo's dump that heat. A nice after market 3-Inch CATLESS downpipe from HKS or pettit will do fine. Your power will be significatly increase as well as throttle response. A downpipe will let the turbo really breathe better, spool faster and disperse one of the worst heat generating spots in the entire car. It will not only do all that but will kill about 20lbs or so from the stock as well. When you see the thing you won't believe it. A quick tip when you upgrade the downpipe A. make sure it has an O2 "bung" and is catless as I bolded it. B. Make sure to pick up a new O2 sensor this will also increase MPG as well as throttle response. I'd reccomend a simple 02 sensor from bosch.

Boost Gauge ~ This is key because if you don't know if your engine is boosting right you could have serious problems. You also want to know what your vac is running as well. A simple Autometer should do very well with a nice simple single pod holder,make sure it's illuminated so you can see int he dark this comes in handy :wink: (Fyi ~ Autometer sells combo's). Installation takes about 10-30 minutes depending on how carefull of a person you car. There are tons of tutorials all over the net on how to do a boost guage.

Note: The Fd's boost pattern should be 10-8-10. If you are boosting slighty under or over, Refer to POST #3 below!

Radiator ~ A nice aluminum radiatior will knock down the heat levels ALOT. Buy a nice simple koyo (not some cheap knockoff you will regret it) A koyo will mount with the stock fans and line up to perfect fitment. After that your temps should drop dramtically.

Oil Cooler(s) ~ There is a reason why I say coolers. All stock Rx7's except the 1st series of the 1sr gen came with it. Most Rx7's come stock single cooler which to put it right out there isn't going to cut it. Your best bet is to either puchase an aftermarket setup from rx7store, custom make yours right from earl's aeroquip or buy the stock dual oil coolers off the R1 model Rx7. This mod is STRONGLY recommend for all who go to the track or just drive heavy on the pedal especially for long periods of time.

Turbo Timer ~ The simple clock that keeps your car running after you turn it off. Although most people say its more of a peace of mind modifacation since the Rx7's turbos are water and oil-cooled there is no need for a turbo timer it will indefinetly prolong the life of your engine.

After those are all hooked up you can go start modding. I'd highly recommend getting a nice 12-15lb ECU and upgrading the fuel pump to a walboro 255. Also you MUST upgrade the stock intercooler to either a front-mount or V-mount before you start really upping the boost.

The greatest ~ This is just some of the crazy engines that were produced to show piston owners what rotaries can do.

R26B ~ Also known as mazdas peripheral ported 4-rotor. It was only 2.4 litres and 2600cc, yet it made over 800bhp and a redline of over 11k it made all watch and hear in awe.

20B cosmo REW ~ Race rotors in a 3-rotor that came stock with a twin turbo making 450 rwhp to the wheels. One recorded instance clocked this amazing engine making 1259 RWHP at a mere 8 pounds of boost. The turbo was a GT42R with a 1.18 hotside running 98 octane!

787B ~ Mazda's legandary race car with the R26B in it. It won lemans by a landslide and since then rotaries have been banned :wink:

Dream engines ~ These idea's are for rotary insane such as myself. Some of the dream engine's that have been produced and are being produced as we speak. First is the R26B-PP 3MM Quad turbo. The engine designed to fit in the FD3S as I have seen first hand is the Tri-Turbo 2MM Street ported 20B. It is a mere 2000CC engine with 3 turbos. The turbo's are standard hotside HKS GT28RS's each spooling a mere a 4psi and yet it makes over 1000RWHP on pump gas. It is capable of boosting up to 10psi on each turbo and running C16.
Truths and myths ~ All those rumors you might have heard? Here's just some common questions.

Do Rx7's need rebuild every 80K miles? Answer YES if you have a turbo model it is highly recommended even though maintained well they can last to about 140K.

Is the rotary engine hard to work on? No if you can work on a honda you can work on an Rx7. it is a very simple engine design with only 3 moving parts vs a regular 4 cylinder that is made up of 41 moving parts, However you still need to know how to work on turbo's which is alot mroe complicated.

(FD3S All series)
Whats the difference between the base,touring and R1 package? Here's a small breakdown for you. The base model which is the lightest has almost nothing except power windows, locks and the single oil cooler. The touring has the bose acoustic sound system as well as a moon/sun roof. It also came with the rare aluminum scuff plates,wing and the CD player. The biggest change was the touring to the R1 model as most poeple want to know. The R1 comes standard with dual oil coolers instead of the single setup. It also is equipped with tighter springs, front strut bar & no CD player or moon/sun roof. Some R1's are very extreme and don't come with AC or Power steering. They can also come with the BBS package wheels and the optional chin & rear spoiler.

This will apply to all RX7's not just R1,R2's, touring,PEP,base, etc.

1. 94-95 Instrument cluster is different due to the fact of having no small indication lines between numbers
2. 94-95 Have smaller rear swaybars.
3. 94-95 Have different dash panels in the way that they're not painted and won't peel like the 93's
4. 94-95 Have 2 additional braces under the rear subframe to minimize the rear subframe from flexing under load(Mostly to try and prevent axle hop)
5. 94-95 Have dual airbags.
6. The EGR system on the 94-95 is different.
7. The 93's were the only ones that came with chrome colored intake manifold nuts.
8. The 93's intake elbow on the throttle body was grey colored, not black like the 94-95.
9. Touring didn't exist in 95 it was replaced by the PEP package, even though the PEP package was introduced earlier in 94.
10. Only Tourings came with glass sunroofs.
11. Only 93 offered a CYM(Competition Yellow Mica) on R1 models
12. There was no white RX7 in 93, only 94-95.
13. R1 and R2's only came in Yellow, Red, Black, and Silver.
14. 95 RX7's used R134 A/C refrigerant, not R12 like the 93-94.
15. 95 RX7's also used a lighter ABS system than the 93-94.

Are Rx7's hard to maintain? The car is like any other car you treat it right and take good care of it you will have no real headaches unless you buy some pos. The only thing required more of is changing the oil more frequent (2000-3000 miles) and knowing about warming up your engine. No cold starting...

Do RX7's use synthetic oil? NO, NO and NO! Unlike pistons engines the Rotary design eats way more oil then a piston engine, probably due to the fact design of the renisis has 3 strokes to 1 on the piston engine. It also can't use sythetic because although it is a longer lasting oil mixture it also traps the worst thing for a rotary... ASH. The longer the oil sits in your engine the more gunk is built up and the ports can get clogged which can lead to a blown coolant seal (That means rebuild time for you). The typical mixture for an FD3S is 20W-50 fyi. Note: If you go to the dealer and drive the new Rx8 the dealers manual instructs you TO take it to redline atleast once a drive. :wink:

Do N/A Rx7's last longer then forced inducted models? YES, They last almost double the life span but provide about half the power when serious modifacation comes into play.

Can I Import an Rx7 to the states legally? No, It has been discussed for ages as has the skyline and as of now the DOT has banned them from the USA's public roads UNLESS fully converted to DOT & NHSA regulations.

What do I look for when looking to buy an Rx7? Look for the litle indicators of hardcore/daily use. Check for drivers seat wear and seatbelt wear. Also look a the door handles and see how scuffed they are. Another good one to check is how beat up the lip and bonnet are. If the front bumper is warped and wavy chances are it was only used for the sole purpose of speeding around full throttle. Little things are the best Q's to finding a good car. Another tidy thing to check on the 7's is modifacation. Anytype of fuel management system installed you probably better just walk away because chances are it's someone else headache. Always look for a lowmilage near stock one...

If you plan on purchasing an Rx7 here is the place to do it ~ (
Or (

09-25-2007, 02:21 PM
this is good, basic info, so I'll sticky it.

09-27-2007, 12:46 AM
Type: FD3S ALL Series

Boost control setup - Perfect 10-8-10 pattern

Ok, as many of you already know I have tried many boost control setups with no success in eliminating spikes or keeping boost at stock levels. Finaly I did a setup that gave me NO spike on primary or transition and held boost wherever I wanted. I am sure some one has already done this setup but many have asked me for detaisl so here we go.....

First, some background and theory based on what I learned from the gurus. I tried changing pills (like 40 combinations), no sucesss....I tried bleeder valves where the pills were, no success...I tried bleeder valves without the ecu, even a 3/8 valve could not bleed enough, no success.

The reason many of these setups fail to control spike (and/or maintain boost level control) is because most of these setups restrict what the actual controler (solenoids in the stock system) sees for pressure.....this restriction REDUCES the controlers reaction time, thus creating spikes. What you want is the controller to see all the pressure (ie no pill or restrictor bleeder valve) so that it can have the fastest reaction ability. However, the stock solenoids/ecu is pre-mapped, so you can never give it the full pressure signal to maintain stock boost. Really what you want is a controller (or solenoid) that can handle the full pressure signal and be adjustable in order to tweak boost settings. Also, you want to minimize the amount of hose in the loop between the pressure source, controler, and actuator... this can also help response time (spiking).

With that said, I decided to use ball/spring valves for both my wastegate and pre-control valves because they can take the full pressure signal and you can adjust the 'breaking point' of the valve.

Here is an image of my setup with comments below:

Some notes:

I know you can get homedepot style ball/spring controllers for cheap, but I wanted these controllers for the professional look and keep the 'why did you buy those ...blah blah.' comments to yourself.

If you decide to get these controllers BE SURE to get the RX ( version with the lighter spring. Even at a very low setting I am at 10 lbs, with the harder spring I don't know if you can get it at 10 with its lowest setting.

If you set it up like I did then you want to start both controllers totally 'open', meaning the ball/spring combo in the valve are just barely held together. I got the valves to this point by opening them until I could hear the ball/spring 'jiggle' when I shooke it, then closed the valve a bit, then shook it, then closed a bit, then shook it, just a bit by bit until I no longer herd the 'jiggle ' of the ball/spring. This allows the actuator to see a lot of pressure and will keep boost low to start. I did this for both the wg and pre-control.

The interesting thing was that on my first runs I was already close to a perfect pattern, I was gettin a 9-7-8 with ZERO spiking on primary or transition. I set the wastegate first so that post transition boost went up to 9ish, then adjusted the pre-control to get my primary to 10ish, then the wastegate again to get post transition boost to 10ish. I have a really nice 10-8-10 with no spikes, and its really more like 10-9-10 becasue the transition has become very quick.

Keep in mind I need to keep 10lbs boost level because I still have a stock ecu, but the following flow mods: intake (, downpipe, and catback. So as you can see with 3 flow mods the stock system (with pills or valves or whatever) could not manage the spikes/boost../..but this style of setup can handle it just very well and I have plenty of adjustment room when I get an intercooler and PFC in, then it will be easy to adjust it to 12-10-12 pattern.

Also, you can use bleeder valves where I use ball/spring, but you may not get the same boost responce and be sure they can flow enough or you will not be able to keep your boost down!!

This is where I got valves (

09-27-2007, 01:00 AM
Type: FD3S ALL Series + FC3S Turbo II only

Here is the full "Mod list to keep your FD running happy" all the time!

NOTE: This assumes semi-emissions legal [main cat on] and near-stock boost levels no more than 12 Psi.

Boost gauge
Turbo Timer
Water temp gauge
Fan mod
Silicone hose/zip tie job
Aluminum AST
NGK Plat. 9's all around/plug wires
Apexi Power FC
Aluminum Radiator
Battery to the hatch/storage bins
Synthetic in the tranny
Replacing the clutch, get a lightweight flywheel
Dual Oil coolers

If you're on a budget starting off, you don't need a BOV, don't need crazy rims, don't need a body kit or spoiler

Change your oil every 2000 miles, check it at every gas fillup, let the car warm up before revving over 4k, always use 93 octane, if you see the temps get over 105 C take preventative measures immediately, pop the hood whenever feasible to get the heat out of the engine bay, whenever possible park to minimize door dings, change your plugs every 8-10k miles, check the coolant level at the radiator neck every few weeks, the list goes on and on...

09-27-2007, 01:15 AM
Type: All RX7 Models
The A,B,C's of the Rx7 world ~

Advice for new owners, suggested modifications, etc... look for the long post by jimlab:

Aftermarket gauge install into the stock dash cluster:

Air Separation Tank / AST / Coolant ( Expansion Tank:
Often fails due to heat and pressure. Many people replace them or remove them from the system.

Airbox mod (thanks adam c)

Air to Water ( A2W ) Intercooler How to:

Automotive Electronics (http:///#) info, Toyota-based, but excellent basic information site for learning about how ECUs work, ABS, etc...: (

Auto ( to Manual Transmission ( swap:

AWS Removal: Accelerated Warm-Up System is what causes your car to idle at ~3000 RPM's when it's super-cold. This heats up the cat converter(s) quickly, but can't be good for the engine.


Battery relocation guide (passenger storage bin) w/ photos:

Battery Replacement : Hawker Odyssey PC680 , or Optima ( size 51R

Boost Gauge Install:

Boost Limitation Switch:
Cuts the power of the car for around-town driving, or making the car a bit more controlled for valets, friends, etc... (

Boost Restrictor Pills: pill vs. nipple restrictor:

Brake ( Bleeding: get rid of air bubbles for improved pedal feel and fade resistance.

Brake Caliper Rebuild and Repaint:

Brake Job: how to change pads on all corners. (

Buying an RX-7 / Buyers Guide / Used Car Shopping:


Clutch, how to release throwout bearing:

Clutch Switch fix:

Compression Test: (

Coolant Burping Tool/ Radiator Cap Funnel

Coolant Flush (with pics):

Coolant hose part numbers: replace all the rubber coolant hoses in your system.

Cooling / Radiator Fan Control information:

Cooling fan modification. Lets you run your fans when you want to run them:

Cooling system thermoswitch replacement:

Cooling system diagram:

Cooling system info:


Dashpot : dampens the throttle stop, for smoother on/off throttle transition, less backfiring, bucking

Design / Styling Concept: Wu-Huang Chin, artist whose design was chosen for the FD3S's styling me&tmp=2&cID=C37&openID=C37
( 37 (

Differential: Stock, Aftermarket, and Custom info:

Differential Bushing Install:

Double Throttle removal:

Downpipe Install:

Downpipe / Exhaust Gasket issues:

Downpipe studs & nuts: factory part numbers, also socket-head screw sizes:


ECU Codes: how to pull and interpret diagnostic codes
ECU diagram:

EGR Blockoff: to simplify, reduce weight, and prevent possible catastrophic failure due to malfunctioning EGR valve (note: many japanese RX-7's don't use EGR valves, including the 99+ models):

EGR Switch Bypass: the EGR switch is the sensor that causes a check engine light ( code 16 ) when it doesn't detect the EGR valve opening and closing. This sensor tends to fail from heat, and give a false alarm even when the EGR valve is working properly.

EGR Test: ensure that the Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve is functioning properly:

Emissions / Smog Test Info:

Emissions / Smog Info (denatured alcohol , electric air pump)

Engine Components, weighed individually (tons of photos):
Engine Housing / Rotor information, weights, interchangeability:

Engine rebuild (DIY style):

Engine removal & installation:

Exhaust system pics/sound/video clips:


Factory Service Manuals (FSM):

Fan Switch Mod: run your radiator fans anytime you want, for better cooling at low speeds

Front Mount Intercooler Installation Guide (thanks TracyRX7)

Fuel Filter:
Change the stock one every 15k miles, to be safe. Helps regain a little smoothness and MPG: more pics here

Fuel Leaks or Odor: (

Fuel Pulsation Damper Replacement:

Fuel Pump Rewiring:

Fuel Starvation fixes (improvements to stock tank baffling):

Full Exhausts (what you need to know):


Gauge Installation info, which wires to tap for illumination:

Gauges / Stock Water Temp Gauge Linearization:

Gauge Install: Oil Temp, Water Temp, Boost, DIN panel mount:


Headlight motor mod / sleepy eyes

Helicoil How-To (repair damaged threads)


Intercooler theory:

Intercooler/Front mount installation guide (thanks TracyRX7):

Intercooler/Stock mount installation guide (thanks Gen2n3): (


Japanese '99 Rat's Nest solenoid vacuum " black box " info and photos:


Malloy Mazda , Ray Crowe is the parts manager, gives great prices to RX-7 owners, quick shipping:
(888) 533-3400 , (703) 490-8170 , fax: (703) 490-3864 ,

Manual Boost controller / Greddy Profec B II install & review:

Manual Boost controller Installation:

Midpipes and boost control:


Non-Sequential Turbo modification:
more pics here: (


Odometer repair:

Oil Cooler cleaning / reconditioning:

Oil Filter Recommendations: K&N , Purolator PureOne, Mobil1

Oil injectors: different designs 93 vs 94-95:

Oil Pan Leak fix:

Oil system diagram:

O2 Sensors (OEM): (


Paint Codes:

Parts: buy them here (

Parts: Japan vendors:

Poor Man's Non-Sequential Mod: (

Power Steering Pump removal: (thanks jimlab) (
Power Steering Rack Rebuild:


Rear Differential bushings how-to:

Rear Suspension Pillow Ball replacement, fix clunking in rear: (

Recommended modifications:

Reliability Mods: << read the post by jimlab

Reliability mods / $1000 to spend


Sleek light kits: RE Amemiya vs. C-West vs. East Bear: (thanks nickpapagiorgio)

Smog Info / Passing Emissions:

Spark plug photos, with mileage and analysis:

Spark Plug Replacement: (

Suspension bushings removal using hydraulis press: (thanks jimlab)


Throttle Position Sensor ( TPS ) adjustment, fix idle / hesitation problems: (

Turbocharger Overview: (

Turbo Rebuild w/ pics:

Turbo FAQ's, including sourxe of oil in intercooler / intake pipes: (

Turbo System troubleshooting (Stock Sequential): (thanks spurvo) ( (
( high altitude: (thanks LAracer) (

...with higher than stock boost:


Vacuum hose removal tips:

Vacuum hose replacement how to: (thanks Rated R1)

Vacuum hose: solenoid ( rats nest ) removal, lots of photos:

Vacuum hose reliabilty test (scientific experiment): Viton vs. Neoprene vs. Silicone (thanks TracyRX7) (

V8 Swap info:


Wastegate Actuator adjustment / modification:

Wastegate Porting:

Water temperature gauge sender:

Wheels: (stock 'light' vs 'reinforced' version)

Wheel Fitment:

09-27-2007, 01:17 AM
Type: FD3S all series ~

3rd Generation. The 1993-1995 RX-7 has been available for over 10 years now, and people have been discussing it on the internet for nearly that long. The internet can be an excellent source of information, but finding that information is not always easy.

This Frequently Asked Questions page is a list of answers to many of the basic questions that many people have asked. Please read this entire page carefully, it is a very thorough introduction to the 1993-1995 model year RX-7. You can also use the Find ( [Ctrl]-[F] ) function of your browser to quickly find any specific topic or keyword you are looking for on this page. For greater detail, use the forum-wide Search tool to read past discussions. You can learn more about how to use the forum features here:

Also included is a list of useful links regarding common modifications and other noteworthy topics that have been discussed in the past. Feel free to reply to this topic with links to other threads that you think should be included. The moderators will occasionally add noteworthy topics to the list and delete your post to keep things tidy. Thanks.

FD FAQ, version 0.6

D. Geesaman, 11/13/04, with contributions from Jimlab, Jonski, Adam_C, and Rated R1.
Edited, 10/20/05

1) Why did I get flamed in my 3rd gen forum post?

2) Why am I being told to 'search'?

3) What is a SMIC/DP/MP/CB/<acronym>?

4) Is the FD a good daily driver? How reliable are FDs?

5) What should I look for when buying an FD?

6) This will be my first car.

7) How much does it cost?

8) Which versions of the FD have turbos?

9) What is an R1? What is a touring?

10) Should I get a 94 or 95 since I heard they are better than 93s?

11) How many FDs were made?

12) Can I import an FD into the US from overseas?

13) What does RX-7 stand for?

14) What does FD stand for?

15) How fast is a stock FD?

16) What is the stock horsepower? What does it weigh?

17) What mods do I need to make 300hp? 400hp? 500hp?

18) What mods do I need to make 12s? 11s? sub-11s? (in the quarter mile)

19) How hard is it to put a 3 rotor / 20b in an FD?

20) What about a 4 rotor?

21) Is a 6 speed transmission an option?

22) How much Nitrous Oxide can it handle?

23) What about the RX-8 engine (Renesis)? Isn't the RX-8 is an upgrade of the RX-7?

24) When does an engine need rebuilt? I heard FD engines only last 60k, is this true?

25) What does a rebuild cost?

26) Is an original engine better than a rebuilt? Does a rebuilt engine indicate the car is a lemon?

27) If running lean is such a problem, should I add an Air/Fuel Ratio gauge?

28) What should the compression be?

29) What's the best BOV?

30) What's the loudest/quietest/best exhaust?

31) How do I turn up the boost?

32) Can I work on this car myself? What manual is best?

33) Which oil should I use?

34) How should I drive it? How do I maintain it?

Welcome to The RX7Club 3rd Gen Forum:

1) Why did I get flamed in my 3rd gen forum post?

Four common reasons:

1) You raised an issue that was discussed many times in the past. Redundant threads cluttering the forums take visibility away from threads about new subjects. Members on this forum are expected to educate themselves as much as possible BEFORE starting a new thread. Use this FAQ, the links above, and the forum search tool as much as possible before posting new threads. If you don’t have the patience to find your answers by searching, then our experiences with FDs suggest this isn’t a good car for you. The first page of the 3rd Gen forum is a very busy place, and one day when you really need help you’ll appreciate that your question isn’t being bumped off by unnecessary threads.

2) You aren’t writing in clear English. The problem is not people who speak English as their second language (don’t be shy if you're not good with English!). The problem is lazy English speakers who choose not to spell words correctly, use complete sentences, and break their text into paragraphs. If you want serious expert responses, don't write like a child.

3) Your subject line was inaccurate or belongs in a different forum. Don’t put to get more attention for your question about a squeaky hatch. Put the main question in the subject line – after doing a few searches you’ll come to appreciate why the subject line is important.

4) Displaying a lack of understanding AND unwillingness to learn for yourself. Turbo rotaries are much different from other sports cars, and there is much to learn. All of us went through this learning process, so we’ll be helpful if you are genuinely trying. Continue reading this FAQ and the links in it, and you’ll be very well on your way.

2) Why am I being told to 'search'?

Before creating a new post, check to see if the 'bible' reference sites cover it, and next run a forum search. The big sites include: Scuderia Ciriani (, Rob Robinette’s site (, Max Cooper’s Site (, Derek Vanditmar’s Turbo Troubleshooting site (, Dave Disney’s site (, and TurboRX-7 ( There are other FAQs, too: FAQ 1 (, FAQ 2, ( FAQ 3 (, FAQ 4 ( Most posters refer to them, and expect the same from others. With a little practice, obtaining answers this way is much faster than relying on a new thread. It takes time for people to write responses, so be respectful and do your best to search even if "I don't have time for a search". Use the words and abbreviations that get used here: so, use “downpipe” or “precat” instead of “Primary Catalyst”.

3) What is a SMIC/DP/MP/CB/<acronym>?

Refer to the glossary section at the end of this FAQ. Or do a search. (Tip: if the term is only 2 letters, add an asterisk: ‘DP*’)

Considering a third-gen RX-7?

4) Is the FD a good daily driver? How reliable are FDs?

Not really and not very. Fuel costs are high due to low gas mileage and the requirement of premium grade gasoline (91+ (PON) octane in the US, or 95 RON). The interior doesn't fit much cargo and is limited to one passenger. The low stance can cause other cars to not see you, and you won’t easily see around them. They are a poor choice for driving in bad weather. Most forum regulars either use a daily driver car or have some alternate transportation in case the FD needs work. You do not want be tempted or forced to drive your FD with an undiagnosed problem.

This car is as reliable as you make it. A stock engine, with reliability mods, up-to-date maintenance, driven properly, will be fairly reliable. But modifications or neglect by past owners will generally reduce reliability.

5) What should I look for when buying an FD?

There are at least two versions of the unofficial FD buyer’s guide: version 1 (, version 2 (

6) This will be my first car.

First, please respect your vehicle. The number of FDs is steadily dwindling, and new drivers will subject their car to abuse both by accident and by laziness. FDs do not handle such abuse gracefully. But the more important point is that an FD is not a beginner's car. The low weight, turbocharged engine, rear-wheel drive require the driver to respond very quickly and accurately. Young drivers (we all were new drivers once) will make mistakes. This is arguably one of the worst cars to 'learn' in. It takes very little effort to make a deadly mistake in this car. If you are starting out and insist on power and performance, we suggest a 1st or 2nd gen RX-7 or an AWD sports car like an Evo or WRX.

Also get an insurance quote first - the insurance industry is well aware of this track record and you find insurance rates reflect that. High risk drivers will pay.

If you intend to do any high speed driving on public roads, even deserted ones, please review this thread: (

7) How much does it cost?

The additional costs of an FD are not just high compared to all cars, but even to most sports cars in the same price class. Be sure to consider the price of the car, additional insurance, maintenance, gas, reliability modifications. As of August 2004, stock FDs in good running condition sell for $11-18k US. Even with a stock setup, the annual maintenance can easily exceed $1k/year, and modifications add much more. Owners should ideally have extra money available in case of a major repair. Even with these costs, the sheer performance of the FD makes a great value, which is why they are still used by many for autocross or track racing.

8) Which versions of the FD have turbos?

All FDs left the factory with twin turbos. These run at 10psi in sequential mode and can be felt from 2k all the way to redline, especially from 4500 up, when both turbos are operating. Any single turbo installations you see are aftermarket.

9) What is an R1? What is a touring?

Different option packages. The R1 was the sport version in 1993, and the R2 was the equivalent sport version from 94-95. R1/R2s have different suspension, synthetic suede seat covers, an extra oil cooler, front lip and rear spoiler, were not available with automatic transmissions, and more. The Touring (similar to the PEP and PEG) has conveniences like Bose stereo, foglights, leather seats, moonroof or sunroof. The Base model could have some of these options added. It is possible to mix/match these optional components yourself, so when shopping it can be tricky to identify the option package. The option package is not in the VIN code, however you may use the VIN code to request the build sheet from Mazda which contains details of the original factory configuration. See the links for detailed info.

10) Should I get a 94 or 95 since I heard they are better than 93s?

The 94s and 95s have some improvements that were not in the 93s, however today the differences are not signficant compared to maintenance history, repairs, and condition. There are 3 recalls on some of the 1993 models, contact your dealer to find if your 1993 car has had them performed. If not, get them done immediately – Mazda will perform them for free. Generally, the differences are minor and are overshadowed by issues of condition, maintenance, mileage, and aging. If you insist on having a later year, expect to pay more and search harder.

11) How many FDs were made? (

Here are the numbers of RX-7s sold in the United States through 1995.

Model 1992 1993 1994 1995
Base . 763 1245 392 153
R-model 1107 1015 275 182
Touring 2991 2734 1010 648
P.E.G. 0 53 533 416

· P.E.G. = "Popular Equipment Group" (Formerly called "PEP")
· The 1992 vehicles are considered to be part of the 1993 US model year sales.

US importation declined quickly after the 1993 year due to reduced demand blamed largely on the cost and reliability issues. In 1996, the new OBD-II emissions requirements and lagging US sales effectively ended its importation, although non-US markets saw the 3rd Gen up to 2002.

Some information about non-US production is here (

For information about other generations and versions offered in non-US markets, this wikipedia article (, this website ( and this website (, and t ( thread (, and this thread ( offer good information.

12) Can I import an FD into the US from overseas?

Not legally, that any of us are aware, but it depends on the state and the intended use of the vehicle. Some owners have managed to import a 92-95 model and get the cars registered and insured fraudulently, but considering there is essentially no difference it is generallly not worthwhile. It is extremely expensive to legally import a later version of this car for many reasons, much more than the cost of the cars themselves. If you see an FD with 96+ trim, it’s probably a 93-95 with imported parts added later.

13) What does RX-7 stand for?

According to Moray Callum of Mazda, RX officially stands for Rotary Sports, and always has.

14) What does FD stand for?

FD is a nickname for the 3rd generation RX-7. It comes from the chassis code FD3S, also included in the VIN. Likewise, the first generation RX-7 is commonly called the FB, and the second generation goes as FC3S (FC). FD is also the 4th and 5th characters of the VIN. (JM1FD…)

Performance and Modifications:

15) How fast is a stock FD?

Magazine reviewers published 0-60 times from 4.9s to 5.4s. Published quarter mile times vary from 13.8 to 14.1s at about 100mph. For automatic transmission-equipped models, the times are a few tenths slower in both tests. Mazda did not officially publish these numbers.

16) What is the stock horsepower? What does it weigh?

255HP, 217ft-lb at the flywheel. This is about 220Hp at the rear wheels (DynoJet dyno). Modified cars are always quoted in rear wheel horsepower, and remember that this rating differs depending on the dyno used.

The FD weights are as follows:
Base, 5-speed 2,789 lb
Base, Auto 2,857 lb
R1/R2, 5-speed 2,800 lb
Touring/PEP, 5-speed 2,862 lb
Touring/PEP, Auto 2,923 lb
For more detailed performance specifications, see here (

17) What mods do I need to make 300hp? 400hp? 500hp?

Since stock power levels already push the limits of the car, begin with maintenance items: fuel filter, tranny and differential oil, spark plugs and wires, coolant change, injector cleaning, bleed brakes, replace fuel pulsation damper, coolant hoses, etc. Next, install reliability modifications ( (alternate list ( to correct weaknesses in the factory design: all-aluminum radiator, downpipe, aluminum AST or AST elimination, vacuum hose job, boost gauge, coolant temp gauge, modify cooling fans by thermoswitch replacement or manual control, and others. Finally, it is time to add power mods. FDs respond to power modifications and tuning but can’t handle more than a couple bolt-on power mods until fuel, boost levels, and re-tuning are considered. This advice isn’t meant to slow down your progress, but to ensure you don’t destroy your car. It’s happened many times before, and with modified engines pushing the limits of the stock engine systems, the reliability mods become necessities. See this thread ( for further info.

i) 300HP can be achieved with some bolt-on mods and piggy-back ECU tuning. For example, Pettit Racing offers a +60hp package for under $1500. M2 Performance has a 290HP kit for $2000, and 315HP kit for $3500. 300hp already exceeds the stock ECU’s fuel maps, so the list includes a remapped ECU as well as intake, exhaust, and intercooler upgrades. Any similar set of quality bolt-on will yield similar performance. Any power beyond this point is difficult to pass emissions testing.

ii) 400HP – At this point, it gets tougher to keep the power on the road, so upgraded tires and suspension should also be considered. One fellow planned his path to 400hp in advance to be $10k plus installation time. This list of power mods includes full exhaust, intake, upgraded turbos, reliability mods, upgraded fuel and ignition system, engine porting, standalone engine computer and wideband O2 sensor, clutch, intercooler and tuning.

10-03-2007, 11:08 AM
Tuning companies

When looking for more performance then stock it's obviously important to know what your dealing with. Here are some companies that I would recommend using if you own an Rx7 and are looking to make it faster.

FEED [Fujita Evolutional Engineering Development]

AFFLUX ~ The aerodynamic branch of FEED
Sonic ~ The exhaust branch of FEED

∙ It is known as one the most serious tuning companies on the planet when it comes to RX7's and even more so the Time attack. They ONLY specialize on rotary engine vehicles nothing else. They produce only the finest quality parts from the finest materials. They make everything from your basic intake to Full custom strutural flex bracements. They are by far the best company for performance they are also the most expensive.

Re Amemiya

∙ Is known as the Rx7 guru to put it simply. They do the most radical designs like the infamous 997 front end on the FD3S. They are not all show at all in fact they are right on par with FEED and even won the title to build the JGTC race car (Amemiya 20B of the GT300 Class). The owner and quite possibly the most well respected person in the rotary world Amemiya San is notorious for his wild idea's and amazing tuning capabilities. He truly is #1 in the Rx7 world.


∙ Another amazing time attack compan. There is very little known about this company and their parts are extremely rare.

The rest of these companies check out and google them. They are all excellent companies, if you have any questions on any of the companies here feel free to pm me anytime. [I can get parts directly from Japan as well]

Craft Company
Anubis Curve
Signal Auto
Top Secret
SR motorsports
Gotham Racing
Pettit Racing
Amuse ~ Amuse Powerhouse

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