Ignition timing of 1999 CR-V EX 5 speed manual

Hi All,
Just changed the timing belt on my CR-V and the spark plug wires as well. Noticed upon acceleration there is pinging using regular 87 octane gas. Noted red paint mark (? deg BTDC) on pulley as well as white TDC #1 mark on pulley. How does one adjust the rotation of the distributor to adjust ignition timing for my car (also what is the correct idle timing mark to line up with timing light (red or white mark?).

Thanks in advance for any helpful info.

your timing is 16 deg BTDC and you have to have a service plug shorted in order to adjust timing. the service plug is because the computer adjusts timing according to driving conditions.. so when it is shorted the mark should be to the red and when its not shorted the mark should be towards the white or vice versa.. the last time i checked the 2p service connector was located on the passenger floorboard right kick panel and is brown or black.. so try that

Thanks Wiseguy01,

I looked for the service plug in the passenger footwell kick panel and didn't see one (just the ECU and multi wire connectors). The 1991 Accord has a blue service connector in the same location. I was not able to find any in my CR-V. The CR-V distributor also doesn't have the 2-pin connector and 7 wire connector that the Accord has and appears to have only the 8 wire single plug connector.

I was able to move the distributor position to maximum retard at idle (near the 16 deg red marking on the pulley but still hear pinging upon acceleration up hill in 3rd, 4th, or 5th gear. Would valve adjustment affect this pinging issue.

Also my CEL just came on and code P0420 catalytic converter not efficient enough is displayed on reader.

What should I do now?

the cel is caused by adjusting the distributor without the service plug shorted so the computer throws the cel too retarded means all the gas isnt getting burnt and the o2 sensor is picking up the excess gas so. do u have a timing light or you can try to do it by ear but the valves dont have much to do with the pinging the timing does im gna look into this more to find that service plug ill get back to you

Wiseguy01,

I looked up Haynes Manual and found the service plug (it is blue and located in the CR-V on the right lower side of the center console (left side of passenger footwell area). I shorted the 2 terminals and used a timing light and saw that the red mark is close but not exactly near the indicator with the distributor fully retarded (cannot turn it clockwise any further). Looks like the only way I can retard the distributor any more would be to readjust the position of the timing belt by repositioning the right side cam wheel on tooth counterclock wise direction relative to its present position. Or live with it as is. I was able to turn off the CEL with my OBD2 scanning software. So far after 10 miles of driving the cel light has remained off. Hopefully it means I don't need to spend another $200 to get a new cat.

Thanks for your help.

Wiseguy01,

I looked up Haynes Manual and found the service plug (it is blue and located in the CR-V on the right lower side of the center console (left side of passenger footwell area). I shorted the 2 terminals and used a timing light and saw that the red mark is close but not exactly near the indicator with the distributor fully retarded (cannot turn it clockwise any further). Looks like the only way I can retard the distributor any more would be to readjust the position of the timing belt by repositioning the right side cam wheel on tooth counterclock wise direction relative to its present position. Or live with it as is. I was able to turn off the CEL with my OBD2 scanning software. So far after 10 miles of driving the cel light has remained off. Hopefully it means I don't need to spend another $200 to get a new cat.

Thanks for your help.


:lol:

when you readjust the timing belt make sure that the cams are lined up they should have timing marks on the cam and the head so reset the timing and when you put the harmonic balancer back on do not use an impact because you can spin the crank without the belt moving and you will be off a couple of teeth again have fun and let me know what happens

Wiseguy01,

readjusted the timing belt by rotating the right side cam position slightly clockwise (2 teeth). Now everything is spot on and I was able to adjust distributor timing so the timing light shows the red mark on the pulley at idle.
thanks for your help and info. Now I'm no longer afraid to do a TB but my car will probably not need another new belt before I sell it at 250,000 miles?

:grinyes:

its nice to hear u got it fixed just remember everything u do and always double check everything but did u replace your water pump while you were in there???
its not a ? of if its bad or not its more of dont do the same job twice

Wiseguy01,

Nah, I didn't replace the water pump since it wasn't leaking or broken. The last Honda civic's water pump lasted without any problems over 200000 miles and since I've already learned how to tackle this timing belt issue and have already done the job 3 times, if the pump leaks or breaks, fixing it would not be a difficult job. On the otherhand, the conventional wisdom of replacing the WP when doing a timing belt is well taken in the case of my friend's VW Jetta 2004 MY. He hears that the stupid WP has a plastic impeller that only lasts 70000 miles if one is lucky so sure enough when we did his Timing Belt, he had a new water pump aftermarket which had a better metal impeller ready to replace the old one which was indeed cracking at the impeller (caught it just in time!). The VW engine mount was a real pain in the butt to remove before one can get the old belt off, and the reverse was also terrible. These engines were not designed to be easily serviced at home since the engineers only specify how one can assemble the car with mounts that get attached to the engine outside of the confines of the sheet-metal or support structure of the car. So getting the correct angle of reach for removing those deeply buried bolts with the car body in the way is really sick.

On the Honda there was no problem of that nature except for the removal of the tensioner bolt which I accidentally stripped the first time (it was seized and I wasn't sure which way it was threaded.) By the time I impact wrenched and hammered it off I had to run to the dealer for a replacement and sidelined the car for 1 week longer than I intended.