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97 blazer won't charge, No gages, No Driving lights, NO AC in FLORIDA


dlavieri
09-16-2007, 09:13 PM
:banghead:
I see Many many Blazer's with Electrical issues hope i didn't make a mistake ..I have got one but hope Someone has had the same problem!!

Mine is a 1997 100,007 miles LT - Pretty much fully loaded ... Electric Seats and windows and such ...

Started out Door lock, Keyless entry and power Seat relay Pops .. Haven't found that short yet but have a few more hints here .. but it "MAY" be related so I'll throw it in ...Been Living with this problem .....

Here's My SERIOUS issue ... Wife brought the truck home last week ... threw the keys at me and said the Air dosent work again (FLORIDA COLOR = BLACK - Imagine my Delima )

So I get in the next day ... she's right it's not only dosent have AC .. But what she failed to notice (go figure) -- Also no Day time driving lights, the Dash and all the gages are out .. no SPEEDO , No TACH (Not Digital) and can't trust the Amp, Pres Temp and gas gage I don't see them move at all either --- And When I turn on the lights the head light (which work) Buzzer stays on and is enough to make you want to sleep in on a 20 minute ride .....

I deal with all that on the way to work ... On the way home ... head light Dim, wipers move slower and slower (light rain) ... until POOF .. nothing - I was driving on the battery Cost to the side and thats all she wrote ...

GET get it home through several jumps and figure Alternator Right ?

I put a meter to the back nut on the alt and got 11.3, 11.2, 11.1 (while running after a good battery charge PS Starts and runs fine on battery) it was Droping voltage fast ... took off the alternator and ran to my friendly AutoZone man who tested it twice -- trust me if he could sell me one he would, but it was good !! Battery holds a charge and is about 6 - 8 months old ....

I am Pretty Handy when it comes to cars ... so if someone can give a hint on what next or may have had this issue ... PLEASE let me know .... A RELAY ? Some Typical Problem Connector ?? I read all kinds of nightmares electrical on this blazer please tell me i haven't made a mistake !! it was clean and ran GREAT when I bought it .. Ummm 3 weeks and 500 Miles ago !!

:screwy:
THANKS
DAVE !!

PS ... also thought the Circuit breaker issue with the seats and locks was an issue in the seat .. but when disconnected Seat --- Circuit breaker Still got damm near red hot and popped ... So Still hunting down that one .. http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/emotorcons/emo_smiley.gif)

HELP !! Car in garage .......... !!!

82Stang
09-16-2007, 11:51 PM
Alt should be in the 14.0 range to be good while running.

Blue Bowtie
09-17-2007, 12:29 AM
Make sure there is power at the "L" terminal for the alternator with the engine running.

dlavieri
09-17-2007, 06:22 AM
Thanks for the Reply's ..... The "L" terminal ... where is this .... Once located I will check ..........

Also Late last night after reading a very similar issue in A/F ..... I found a Fuse for the Gauges/inst Blown .... 10 A ..........I placed another 10 A in and when I turned the key to the prestart position all dash gages and warning lights worked ... but when i fired the up the engine .. Poof Popped again ... Went to a 25 A fuse just to see if i can buy my self some time and All systems stayed functional - all dash systems worked ... AC back on ... 4x4 switch worked ... and Driving lights ...and most of all the Alt was once again Putting out about 13.8 V --- I know this is a NO NO !! So I sent back and went up only one notch to a 15A fuse and it also worked ... this will buy some time to research the circut and understand what the fuse feeds and track down any possible short ... AMAZING what this little 10A fuse feeds though ... sounds like the problem could be anywhere !!!

So if this add any help ... I still need help understanding it all .... this 97 is a wiring nightmare ..... Looks like GM Engineer's had a ball covering and taping wires under the hood ..

Thanks ALL
Dave

mike2004tct
09-17-2007, 08:03 AM
Thanks for the Reply's ..... The "L" terminal ... where is this .... Once located I will check ..........

Also Late last night after reading a very similar issue in A/F ..... I found a Fuse for the Gauges/inst Blown .... 10 A ..........I placed another 10 A in and when I turned the key to the prestart position all dash gages and warning lights worked ... but when i fired the up the engine .. Poof Popped again ... Went to a 25 A fuse just to see if i can buy my self some time and All systems stayed functional - all dash systems worked ... AC back on ... 4x4 switch worked ... and Driving lights ...and most of all the Alt was once again Putting out about 13.8 V --- I know this is a NO NO !! So I sent back and went up only one notch to a 15A fuse and it also worked ... this will buy some time to research the circut and understand what the fuse feeds and track down any possible short ... AMAZING what this little 10A fuse feeds though ... sounds like the problem could be anywhere !!!

So if this add any help ... I still need help understanding it all .... this 97 is a wiring nightmare ..... Looks like GM Engineer's had a ball covering and taping wires under the hood ..

Thanks ALL
Dave

'97s had a recall for the driver's door electric mirror. The wiring chaffed at the hinge side, and could cause a fire. This short could cause some of your problems.

Check for "campaign" stickers under the hood, on the fan cowling. You should have at least 2 of them. If you have none, you can check with a Chevy (or any GM dealer) who should be able to run your VIN an tell you if the recalls were addressed. (Lower ball joints, door mirrior wiring, driver's seat belt are the three major recalls, wiper pulse board was a special recall on '97s and expired in 2004).

Also the ignition switch is a major concern on 97s, but it sounds like you have a shorting problem somewhere.

old_master
09-17-2007, 06:03 PM
It's not uncommon for a voltage regulator too draw excessive current. An easy test would be to disconnect the 14 gauge brown wire from the alternator and run a fused 10amp jumper wire from battery positive to the terminal on the alternator. Drive the vehicle, if it pops the fuse in your jumper, you know the problem is excessive draw in the alternator. Don't trust those alternator and starter testers, they're not 100% conclusive.

ericn1300
09-17-2007, 08:15 PM
after starting try gently rocking the ignition switch back to the run position, ignition switches are a known problm on 97s.

dlavieri
09-17-2007, 09:43 PM
Thanks all for the hints ... this isn't an exact science for sure .. I will POKE around with it this week and really tear into it this weekend again ... I have a Few more IDEA's as well ... Known friend of previous owner was a Delphi engineer ... Changed the Ignition switch .... Hmmmm !! Both Mirrors have been replaced (something is Pinched somewhere) ... Seemed the previous owner's garage was too narrow ..(2 Car wide) and the thought that something that little ol 10 amp Fuse feeds is the culprat ... I will get a Wiring diagram and do some studying ......... Will be sure to document what the issue was !! as well as the Power seat and Lock situation ... May all be related somehow ... Right now I don't see any smoldering wires with the 15 amp fuse in the home of the 10A Gage/inst

So I am on the road but cautious and watching closely ........ I will check into the Warranties ...... gotta love any FREE parts ....

Thanks again and Will let ya know

Dave

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