Salvage LS. A lot of work! Need help.

Ok, I'm going to start from the begining.
I purchased this 2000 Lincoln ls for 3500.00 :naughty: It ran but stalled and would not start shortly after I purchased it. When I went to change the spark plugs I saw that the wells were filled with oil. I checked the ignition coils, three were bad. I changed them along with both valve cover gaskets. Still would not start. I changed the fuel filter. It was very bad, so I figured I might-as-well try cleaning the fuel injecters. It started up. But was running rough. After ideling for half and hour, I noticed the catalytic converters were glowing red. I replaced them with a used set. After that I went back and cleaned one of the injectors again the enging was running alot better, but it's not there yet. I am getting codes. I got P0171 ( Bank 1 lean) and P0355. I was told the problem could be and o2 sensor or MAF sensor. How can I check without buying parts that I might not need? I've already spent over $500:banghead:

P.S.

This car is a V8 sport. I'm pretty sure I need a transmission flush. The car engages revers late.
When I drive the car at 40 MPH or higher, if I press the gas longer than 2 seconds the engine shutteres and bogs down as if it's going to stall. could this be related to the lean codes?

I heven't herd anything yet...:popcorn:

I am going to try soaking the fuel injectors a little longer and see if that works.:uhoh:

Welcome to the forum!

To check the operation of the MAF and O2, you'll really want a scan tool with a datastream mode. That will allow you to monitor various sensor parameters real-time while driving the car to see if they are operating as they should be.

Code P0355 is Coil Driver E Secondary Circuit Malfunction, and is likely the cause of the P0171 and glowing catalytic converters. Likely causes of this code are:
Open or short in Ignition START/RUN circuit
Open coil driver circuit
Coil driver circuit shorted to ground
Damaged coil
Damaged PCM
Coil driver circuit shorted to VPWRSounds like maybe you still have a bad coil.

BTW, many of us have full-time jobs, which is not monitoring this forum. Posting a question at 2am and expecting a response by 2pm is not very reasonable on a weekday.

-Rod

BTW, many of us have full-time jobs, which is not monitoring this forum. Posting a question at 2am and expecting a response by 2pm is not very reasonable on a weekday.



I know. I'm just really anxious.:uhoh: This car has been consuming all of my free time and while I'm having fun, my wife is demanding results. I work full time as well. I just got to a computer during my lunch break.
I will take your advice and start down that list. I'll get back to you and tell you my results.

Thanx.

P.S.

The cat's were bad. I found chunks of them that had been knocked around to the mufflers.

Sounds like maybe you still have a bad coil.




I wasen't sure of how I should check the ignition coils. (Please tell me I did it correctly. They were expencive). I used a multimeter and mesured the resistance between the electrical leads and the spring that sits inside the boot. I compared that reading to the reading I got from the new coils. If they matched I assumed they were good and if not... Well, they were bad. next I went around and pull the leads off the coils on at a time while the car was running. I figured the cylinder that did not effect the engine with no spark is the problem cylinder.

Checking the coils by DC resistance measurements is just a warm fuzzy way of doing it. If you have a coil that is arcing to the head, your DC resistance measurement won't pick that up.

The way I would suggest doing it is through using a high-end scan tool to monitor the misfire component parameters for each cylinder individually. To be extra sure, you could also use an oscilloscope to scope the primary side of each coil and compare the pulse against a known good pulse for your car.

As I'm sure you're aware, you certainly want o fix the source of the codes/misfires before you destroy the new catalysts. Running raw fuel through them, causing them to overheat, is a sure way to destroy them.

-Rod

You were right!:grinyes:
The problem was a bad ignition coil.
Thanx for the help.

Great, glad to hear you got the issue solved! Good work! And thank you for following up with what it took to fix it.

-Rod

Just an update.

Engine runs great. Now for the transmission.