Contemplating Rodeo purchase, some questions

I am looking to purchase a 1999-2002 Rodeo as a daily driver / parts car. Hence wanting to buy an older, cheaper, model. The miles will be 75k+

My questions are as follows:

- What visual indicators of potential issues should I look for?
- Besides oil consumption and the tranmissions being a little needy when it comes to fluid changes, what else should I look for?
- Should I just change out the egr, gaskets, belts, etc to prevent what appears to be the envitable (low mileage, weak power)?
- I read the water pump can be a problem, what about fuel pumps and injectors? Solid?
- How does the suspension hold up?

Basically, I really like the utility of the vehicle and respect the marks it has gotten in terms of reliability and overall satisfaction. I just want to make sure I am fully armed walking into a used car deal on these as they are unfamiliar territory to me. (I come from a VAG background (audi/vw).

I would personally aim toward a 2002-2004 model, the 98 & 99 models (though not all) were problematic towards burning more then average amounts of oil, and quite a few 98 early 99 models are even prone to throwing a rod even WITH the correct amount of engine oil.

I have had the luxury of owning 2 Isuzu's, a '91 & current '97 Rodeo - LOVED them both dearly. Still have the '97 with 175k carefree miles, and running like a bat out of he$$..

But, I wouldn't take a 98-99 if you paid me too, (no offense Gizmo - you do have a beautiful truck)...I've just heard way too many horror stories about those 2yrs engines in particular.

The biggest gripe about the auto tranny's is the 95.5-2003 models do NOT have an actual dipstick, you have to check/drain/refill from underneith, MAJOR pain until you get used to it.

Personally, I'd try to look for a 2004 3.5L V6 Direct Injection Rodeo, hard to find, but I've seen quite a few lately. These Rodeo's are mated to the Asian Warner auto transmission, which is MUCH stouter then the GM 4L30-E (dipstickless) auto tranny in the 91-2003 Rodeo's. And the Asian does have a dipstick, but I'm not positive about an actual drain bolt, however.

Either way, if you get an 02-03 Rodeo automatic, it is the GM tranny, and you MUST change it's fluid every 25k at most if you want a good long tranny life. I'm testiment to a good long automatic owners life, mine is still on the original automatic - with a fairly harsh life.

That said, if the price was right, I'd go for a 2002-2004 Rodeo anyday - you bet.

The waterpump really is not too much of a problem, and the good thing about the timing belts on these 3.2L's, is if the belt brakes it does NOT damage the engine, but it CAN damage your timing belt covers, which can be a little pricey.

Personally, I would go no further then 120k on any timing belt package for the 3.2L dohc/sohc engine; the PACKAGE includes, timing belt, timing belt tensioner (VERY IMPORTANT to NOT forget to replace at same time), and waterpump.

The waterpump is located behind the timing belt, so if it ever goes out, might as well do all 3 items as bare minimum while you're there - labor time, expense will be the same. This is the gripe some owners have, as most waterpumps are before the timing belt, making it easier to just change the pump.

The EGR issues are more plagued to the 1998+ model engines, but they are relatively easy preventative issues with yearly cleaning that a 2yr old can master.

The rear suspension on the '97 Rodeo's (1st generation) are somewhat different then the rear on the 98+yrs, however, front suspension are the same, IIRC, and if it's any testiment again, I've had over 2,000# in the back of my Rodeo many many times, along with pulling a heavy 4,000 boat up and down 75% of our american highways.

This truck has also been down many mild/rough 4x4 trails, riverbeds, mineshafts, been dropped off a boat dock, literally, flown down into a mediun doing 50mph (nearly got ran over by a semi-tractor trailer that the driver wasn't paying attention) and too many highways/bi-ways with potholes to remember listing them all.

I AM on my 3rd set of shocks in 10yrs, but everything else is original, minus 2 front lower ball joints that now need replaced - again, after 10yrs, can't complain.

Have any more questions please feel free to ask - can't say enough about my Isuzu's.

Thanks for the quick response!

I have really been looking at the 2000-2001 models. The reason for this is simply price. I want to pay cash and I don't have the 10-12 it would take to get a newer model. So I am stuck with something a little older.

Anything specific on the 00-01 besides tranny maintenance? I don't mind performing that type of maintenance every 25k. Hell, I change my A4's oil and plugs every 5k.

I guess I wanted to make sure I knew what I was getting into. Like the Audi, coilpack issues is a problem for them. I know about it and was/am prepared to fix them if something happens.

1 more question, what about the manual tranny? Is it solid? I've found a few manual transmissions that are quite a bit cheaper than the auto... I ask because the manual could push me into a '02 maybe '03.

As far as manual vs. stick, I could care less, I don't mind manuals. (current car is a 6spd)

If you have the option to get a 5-spd DO IT! The manual tranny's on Isuzu's are VERY VERY stout beasts!

More of us here, in fact, have the 3.2L engine, rather then the 3.5L DI engine (only on 04 models) - so you'll have more help/advice from us if you got the 3.2L engine..I say go for which ever one is cleanest, has the clearest informative of maintenance history, and lowest miles.

Things to search for here in regards to spark plugs, the 2002+ models, IIRC, takes a certain plug for the Ion sensing, or it will cause issues; the 2000-2003 models are susceptable to cracking the Intake manifold gasket, but there is a respectable fix for this, the thermostat in the 2nd gen's is a royal pain to get too, other then those items, they are great trucks.

Keep us posted as to what you end up with.

BTW - if I had my choice again, it would be a 5-spd all the way!! I do believe, however, on the 1st gen anyway, the towing capability is slightly less with the 5-spd, according to the book. In real life, I don't think that's the case.

I think you have the right idea. That is to swap the fluids, change the plugs, change all the filters and clean the EGR. Personally I would wait until you are close to 120k before you change out the timing belt and other associated parts.

Also, if it sill has the stock shocks I would swap those out too. It makes a world of difference.

My input for what its worth.......

I've got a 98' stick shiftin' v6 4x4.

Yep, it uses oil. Quite a bit. However, after getting used to checking it all the time, its not that big of a deal.

I have a friend with exactly the same vehicle, except his is a bumper car automatic, and my mileage is usually 8-10mpg better in all conditions. Get the 5 speed without hesitation.

If i was in the same position again, i'd probably rather pay the premium for a tacoma or a 4runner. My wife has one and it is better in every aspect except one. Price.

If i was in the same position again, i'd probably rather pay the premium for a tacoma or a 4runner. My wife has one and it is better in every aspect except one. Price.

I have a Tacoma too; I highly agree that it's a fantastic truck so far. But my 2 Isuzu's were/are VERY worth their purchase prices, they've more then paid for themselves. Can't say I've been shorted by having owned an Isuzu far longer then the Tacoma, then again, I AM speaking as one who's owned 2 first generation Isuzu's. I've never owned a 2nd gen, so I can't speak for those years.

All I can say, is if you do look for Toyota, you CAN get one for an excellent price by majorly shopping around. We got our '04 Tacoma 4x4 double cab TRD-offroad 3.4L V6/auto with only 28k miles last year, and it cost us about $4k LESS then our '97 Isuzu Rodeo did 10yrs ago.

We paid $18k for our '91 Rodeo; $24k for our '97 Rodeo; and $19k for our '04Toyota Tacoma - go figure.

I really appreciate all the responses so far, it's nice to see all car communities seem to be full of like-minded and nice people! :)

So, to further explain my situation, I am looking for a low-priced truck/SUV. The rodeo caught my eye, as did the Passport and a few other SUV's.

I am trying, very hard, to keep whatever I buy under $6k to $7k + tax. I had even told myself I would go no higher than 5k when I started my search, but I soon realized I would be hard-presssed to find anything decent enough to warrant spending the money. I decided to post here because I felt the Rodeo would suit my needs best in terms of size (not huge, but good sized), reliability, and price.

What I really, truly, want is a car I can toss my dogs in, haul sheet rock, tow a boat, and rely on for nasty Minnesota winters. I want a true, pack up anything and go, utility vehicle. Doesn't have to be pretty, doesn't have to be fast, just reliable and useful. I am sick and tired of using my audi to haul frickin lumber in! :) (it's quite amusing to watch I am sure, me shoving 2x4's into the audi.. but it has been done.. hah)

Wish more people posted information like this about their vehicles.. If this thing was in my price range I would consider it!

http://www.carsoup.com/used/detail.asp?usedVehicleID=4336970&MakeID=74&minYear=1995&maxYear=2008&searchID=90228199&vehicleTypeID=1&UVViewID=4&Page=1&DealerGroupID=&BodyStyleTypeID=3

i have 99 model with updated interior and super clean,, needs auto trans changed,, and i have the trans with it... 1800.. bucks. drive home, just slips in low gear when taking off... alabama...

and quite a few 98 early 99 models are even prone to throwing a rod even WITH the correct amount of engine oil.
Will you stop saying that!! LOL Mine was built oct. 98.

I've been really happy with my '99. I'm 3rd or 4th owner and dont have much idea about previous life but I do know maintenance wasnt a priority with previous owners. Other then engine oil, all other fluids were original (88k miles). I've done seafoam treatments and run good synthetic oil and mine uses 1qt or less per 3k miles. All my fluids are now synthetic. As far as I know my intake gaskets are original at 107k miles.

And just to clarify, ion sensing ignition as well as drive by wire (no throttle cable) started in 2000. In '02 the front hubs changed to a gm style (large nut) hubless design so you cant put manual hubs on and it has sealed wheel bearings. '98-01 had drive flanges instead of hubs so the cv joints turn all the time even in 2wd. Its common to put manual hubs on to save wear on the cv's and boots. It also helps a little with gas mileage and makes handling better.

I bought mine much the same way. I was looking for an SUV around the time gas prices spiked a few years ago and ppl started dumping the gas guzzlers. So I was able to find this one at a price I could pay cash for (I refuse to make car payments).

Will you stop saying that!! LOL Mine was built oct. 98.

I've been really happy with my '99. I'm 3rd or 4th owner and dont have much idea about previous life but I do know maintenance wasnt a priority with previous owners. Other then engine oil, all other fluids were original (88k miles). I've done seafoam treatments and run good synthetic oil and mine uses 1qt or less per 3k miles. All my fluids are now synthetic. As far as I know my intake gaskets are original at 107k miles.

And just to clarify, ion sensing ignition as well as drive by wire (no throttle cable) started in 2000. In '02 the front hubs changed to a gm style (large nut) hubless design so you cant put manual hubs on and it has sealed wheel bearings. '98-01 had drive flanges instead of hubs so the cv joints turn all the time even in 2wd. Its common to put manual hubs on to save wear on the cv's and boots. It also helps a little with gas mileage and makes handling better.

I bought mine much the same way. I was looking for an SUV around the time gas prices spiked a few years ago and ppl started dumping the gas guzzlers. So I was able to find this one at a price I could pay cash for (I refuse to make car payments).

I wanna back Gizmo here - I'm an original owner of a 99, auto V6 - been nothing but good to me - I maitenance it well, and I believe that is the trick with the 98 and 99 engines - or maybe I just got lucky. I've got 75K on it, and it's running strong. It now serves as a tow vehicle, and is in regular use 9 months a year....

kudos to my 99 RODEO!!!

I have 2-98's with 3.2 eng. and AT and have been happy with them until now. I am having problems getting parts now that Isuzu dealerships are closing up and that Isuzu will stop selling her in the states in a couple of months.
I have been trying to get a shift cable for 5 months now and they are backordered nationally by Isuzu and they keep postponing the rollout. Other parts are getting harder to find as well through dealers or aftermarket sellers.

Last night one of my Rodeos, while sitting in the driveway, now will not start and makes a metal to metal noise while cranking.................they are both beginning to hurt me...............

I have 2-98's with 3.2 eng. and AT and have been happy with them until now. I am having problems getting parts now that Isuzu dealerships are closing up and that Isuzu will stop selling her in the states in a couple of months.
I have been trying to get a shift cable for 5 months now and they are backordered nationally by Isuzu and they keep postponing the rollout. Other parts are getting harder to find as well through dealers or aftermarket sellers.

Last night one of my Rodeos, while sitting in the driveway, now will not start and makes a metal to metal noise while cranking.................they are both beginning to hurt me...............

Man! Do I hear that!!

Future parts availability really concerns me as well. I replaced my fuel pump recently & when I ordered the pump-to-tank gasket, was told by the dealership that it was not available, and would likely never be available so no reason to back order.

I know Isuzu hopes to continue to sell big trucks in the US. The following entry appeared in today's Federal Register:

FMCSA announces that Isuzu Motors America (Isuzu) has applied for an exemption from the Federal requirement for a driver of a commercial motor vehicle (CMV) to hold a commercial driver's license (CDL). Isuzu requests that the exemption cover 27 of its commercial motor vehicle (CMV) drivers who will test-drive CMVs for Isuzu in the United States. Each of these 27 Isuzu employees holds a valid Japanese CDL but lacks the U.S. residency necessary to obtain a CDL from one of the States of the U.S. Isuzu believes the knowledge and skills tests and training program that drivers undergo to obtain a Japanese CDL ensures that these drivers will achieve a level of safety that is equivalent to, or greater than, the level of safety that would be obtained by complying with the exemption.

But I wonder how long we can expect parts support for former Isuzu cars? I'm not so sure purchase of a used Isuzu is a wise decision today unless you can get it for free, or nearly free.

I have really liked the 2 Rodeos that I have and as long as you can tolerate the inherant "must fix" items on these vehicles, they are very sturdy cars.
the lucky part of owning these cars is there is no guessing of things that will and do go south, once the car gets to a certain milage the list is the same on all of them and by reading these blogs you can make that list and then fix them one at a time. There are no mystery problems.
The hard shifting problem that plagues most of the 97-98 AT's has gotten a lot of people spending money that usually is not necessary and with a little knowledge and crawling under the car can fix this problem with no expense. I found out by trial and error and getting copies of the Alldata manuals and bulletins how to fix it (in most cases).

I highly recommend the use of "just answer" for real technical problems.

The 5 months I have been waiting for a shift cable is getting old so if anyone has experience making shift cables and custom fitting them please let me know. I am at the point that I can't wait another month without knowing if Isuzu will even realease the shift cable backorder.
Also if anyone has figured out how to by pass the shift module let me know.