What is an EGR Transducer. My check engine light came on for the first time in 230K miles. The dealer says its the transducer. I dont know what this part is or where its located on the truck. All I know is the part is $206 and labor is $300 of which I dont intend to pay. Can I get some help?

What is an EGR Transducer. My check engine light came on for the first time in 230K miles. The dealer says its the transducer. I dont know what this part is or where its located on the truck. All I know is the part is $206 and labor is $300 of which I dont intend to pay. Can I get some help? it's the egr backpressure transducer. it's part of the egr system. the egr valve has a port that looks like a vacuum line and hose, and sends a measured sample of the exhaust gas backpressure and sends it via the hose to the bpt, which essentially is a switch, that when the exhaust gas backpressure is sufficient, it allows the vacuum (which the vacuum switch also controls) to activate the egr. it's just a way for the system to allow egr operation when it is advisable, if you will.

to find it, follow the vacuum-looking hose to it. it's possible btw, that the bpt is fine but that thin line at the egr that sends the exhaust gas to the transducer is clogged up, making him believe it is the bpt not responding when in fact the bpt isn't getting the stuff to respond to.

your egr is easy to remove and clean that port. if you read the FAQ#1 in the link at the top of the forum index page, it describes a different type of egr valve, but it talks about that line, although it is mis-identified as a vacuum line. you *might* be able to clean this out without removing the egr, using carb cleaner and a piece of wire or similar.

my egr, similar to yours, passed all the normal on-car tests for proper operation, including vacuum and bpt operation. when i removed the egr, it looked pretty good, but i found a tiny bit of exhaust build up in that line, hardly blocking anything. cleaned it out, and vehicle ran much better without any hesitatin at ~2500-3000 rpm steady that i had been experiencing.

i think i may have some photos if it really needed. you can also go to the isuzu online parts site and find full parts illustrations of every part on your vehicle, which can be a big help if you don't have any manuals. www.myisuzuparts.com (http://www.myisuzuparts.com)

do you have any manuals?

//bc

it's the egr backpressure transducer. it's part of the egr system. the egr valve has a port that looks like a vacuum line and hose, and sends a measured sample of the exhaust gas backpressure and sends it via the hose to the bpt, which essentially is a switch, that when the exhaust gas backpressure is sufficient, it allows the vacuum (which the vacuum switch also controls) to activate the egr. it's just a way for the system to allow egr operation when it is advisable, if you will.

to find it, follow the vacuum-looking hose to it. it's possible btw, that the bpt is fine but that thin line at the egr that sends the exhaust gas to the transducer is clogged up, making him believe it is the bpt not responding when in fact the bpt isn't getting the stuff to respond to.

your egr is easy to remove and clean that port. if you read the FAQ#1 in the link at the top of the forum index page, it describes a different type of egr valve, but it talks about that line, although it is mis-identified as a vacuum line. you *might* be able to clean this out without removing the egr, using carb cleaner and a piece of wire or similar.

my egr, similar to yours, passed all the normal on-car tests for proper operation, including vacuum and bpt operation. when i removed the egr, it looked pretty good, but i found a tiny bit of exhaust build up in that line, hardly blocking anything. cleaned it out, and vehicle ran much better without any hesitatin at ~2500-3000 rpm steady that i had been experiencing.

i think i may have some photos if it really needed. you can also go to the isuzu online parts site and find full parts illustrations of every part on your vehicle, which can be a big help if you don't have any manuals. www.myisuzuparts.com (http://www.myisuzuparts.com)

do you have any manuals?

//bc


I dont have any manuals. This car has rarely given me any problems in the 14 years that I have had it. I really did not need any manuals. If you can find those pics please post them for me. I know where the EGR valve is and I'll clean it tomorrow along with the pipes connected to it.

Thanks.

I dont have any manuals. This car has rarely given me any problems in the 14 years that I have had it. I really did not need any manuals. yep, so now's the time to get the good factory service manuals if you want to do your own work and are going to keep it.
www.helminc.com (http://www.helminc.com)

If you can find those pics please post them for me. I know where the EGR valve is and I'll clean it tomorrow along with the pipes connected to it.

Thanks.
this might be better from the isuzu online parts site i mentioned www.myisuzuparts.com (http://www.myisuzuparts.com)

#1 is the egr of course. the little pipe/line i'm referring to is the one that comes out the bottom area of the egr valve and goes to the bottom of
the backpressure transducer #26.

the top line from the egr #675 is the vacuum line that supplies vacuum to the egr from the bpt which gets it from the vacuum switching valve which gets it from the manifold/common chamber.

anyway check that exhaust sampler port and clean it for sure.

http://www.myisuzuparts.com/images/Trooper%2092-97/Print/0-57b.gif

//bc

btw, taking off that big long egr pipe that goes into the exhaust manifold can be nasty at the exhaust. i never did remove it since i didn't need to. it is easy to remove the connection for that pipe at the egr valve.

removing the egr is simple and *most* likely the gasket will remain intact and on so take care with it if you haven't gotten a replacement before hand.

I thought the EGR was #26 and the transducer was number 1. Is it really necessary to remove part #1 in the diagram if I use carb cleaner to clean it? I can take all the hoses off and shoot some carb cleaner in the valve and the pipe that runs to the manifold. What do you think? By the way after 230K miles I am going to sale my Rodeo, thats why Im trying to get the check engine light to stay off. Do I need to do anything to part #26 in the diagram?

I thought the EGR was #26 and the transducer was number 1. Is it really necessary to remove part #1 in the diagram if I use carb cleaner to clean it? I can take all the hoses off and shoot some carb cleaner in the valve and the pipe that runs to the manifold. What do you think? i think it would be ok. use a piece of thin wire to poke down that tube. it's all going to depend on how much is in the line. i would then run it, watch your eyes, so that the exhaust coming out that tube blows out the gunk and cleaner and so it won't make its way to the bpt. it's worth the try. there's no servicing the bpt.
and yes #1 is the egr valve. #26 is the backpressure transducer.

good luck

//bc

Thanks Tropper. I will tell you how it goes.

Cleaned the EGR and my check engine light stayed out for a while but eventually came back on. I think I should clean it again to see if i can get it to stay out. You should have seen all the whit smoke made by the carb cleaner in the exhaust manifold and cats.

Cleaned the EGR and my check engine light stayed out for a while but eventually came back on. I think I should clean it again....that would convince me to *remove* the egr and do it all. it's really easy.

//bc

that would convince me to *remove* the egr and do it all. it's really easy.

//bc

Yeah I know:banghead:

watch how much carb cleaner you get into the intake, it will kill the o2 sensore. might want to check it. if it stayed out a while the check engine light might be a bad o2 sensore now. i had this happen after cleaning the throttle body once.

I changed the tstat, toped of the coolant, fans work fine and the radiator has no leaks. It just keeps overheating. I checked the oil and its not going in there so I am at a loss.:banghead:

Did you use an OEM Isuzu thermostat - you can NOT use just any thermostat on these engines.

Also, how OLD is your radiator, if it's original, it's corrodid internally causing the issue.

Waterpump could be shot too, if it has 90k or more miles.

Did you use an OEM Isuzu thermostat - you can NOT use just any thermostat on these engines.

Yes

Also, how OLD is your radiator, if it's original, it's corrodid internally causing the issue.

Changed it out in 2001.

Waterpump could be shot too, if it has 90k or more miles.

Bingo still has the original pump in it. Ill get it changed out.

Bingo still has the original pump in it. Ill get it changed out. water pumps generally do not fail unless there is indication that something is amiss, mostly that it's leaking or that it has seized (frozen). nevertheless, you are on borrowed time for one of those two things to happen.

to change the water pump, you are going to do a timing belt change and also replace the timing belt tensioner as well. so it's not a simple, cheap thing. you want to make sure that is the problem before throwing parts at it.

//bc

Bingo still has the original pump in it. Ill get it changed out.

I am not saying 100% that it's your waterpump, but it *could* be getting weak. If that's the original waterpump at 230k, you're rig is amazing; but you are definitely on borrowed time with timing belt, timing belt tensioner, and waterpump. Waterpump is behind the timing belt, so you might as well do it as a package.

However, this may not be 100% the issue - you didn't answer my question about the thermostat, are you using OEM Isuzu, AND how old is your radiator?...it doesn't have to be leaking to be bad.

The radiator is 6 yrs old and yes its an OE tstat. I have changed my timing belt and tensioner 4 times with the last time being about 3 months ago. I have never changed the water pump, oil pump or the alternator. I only changed the stater once. The truck has taken good care of me. i sold it and now it wants to act up.:shakehead

I am not saying 100% that it's your waterpump, but it *could* be getting weak. If that's the original waterpump at 230k, you're rig is amazing; but you are definitely on borrowed time with timing belt, timing belt tensioner, and waterpump. Waterpump is behind the timing belt, so you might as well do it as a package.

However, this may not be 100% the issue - you didn't answer my question about the thermostat, are you using OEM Isuzu, AND how old is your radiator?...it doesn't have to be leaking to be bad.

Work with a guy who has a 96 Isuzu Trooper with 285k miles, says he started to do the same thing, put a for sale sign on it and the truck started doing weird things - seriously.

His wife explained to him that it was a sign that his truck was mad at him for giving up on it, only selling it for fear that it was aging.

They still have the Trooper - running strong again....who knows.

All I can say is the front of mine, with my WAY past deteriorated ball joints (ALL 4 mind you) should have fallen apart months ago, at any time, while doing 70-75mph on the highway this truck could have lost either front wheel, locked them up, and/or rolled me - of which she did neither.

All 4 old ball joints spin around freely like an old atari joy stick....I personally believe that truck was watching out for me,...sorry, but I do. Of all the places we've been to in this country with this ole Rodeo, she's always brought us home safely.

Good luck, hope you figure it out.

You know you are right my truck never left me on the side of the road and it never let me down. I sold it because it was old. I believe what you are saying. I also found out the tstat was not a factory OE tstat is was a stant tstat from advance. I told them to only use the factory stat, the water pump does not leak and I dont know if it has siezed. I introduced the buyer to a former Isuzu Tech who use to work on my truck and he will get it straight.

Work with a guy who has a 96 Isuzu Trooper with 285k miles, says he started to do the same thing, put a for sale sign on it and the truck started doing weird things - seriously.

His wife explained to him that it was a sign that his truck was mad at him for giving up on it, only selling it for fear that it was aging.

They still have the Trooper - running strong again....who knows.

All I can say is the front of mine, with my WAY past deteriorated ball joints (ALL 4 mind you) should have fallen apart months ago, at any time, while doing 70-75mph on the highway this truck could have lost either front wheel, locked them up, and/or rolled me - of which she did neither.

All 4 old ball joints spin around freely like an old atari joy stick....I personally believe that truck was watching out for me,...sorry, but I do. Of all the places we've been to in this country with this ole Rodeo, she's always brought us home safely.

Good luck, hope you figure it out.

The problem was under the Intake manifold, some pipe under there was leaking. The woman I sold it to had it repaired at a cost of $400. I still dont know what is was technically. It sounds awesome once again so whatever is was stopped a lot of other noises that it was making.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v380/surferfletch/Rickspictures167.jpg
Bet it was an o-ring at the end of one of the 2 coolant pipes under the intake manifold. Makes an awful mess!

Wait a second. I just read the beginning of this thread. Someone was going to charge $300 labor to change the EGR BPT? $300?? I can change that in a couple minutes with my eyes closed while half asleep. WTF??!! It's no wonder that mechanics get a bad rep these days. A lot of them blatantly rip people off.

Wait a second. I just read the beginning of this thread. Someone was going to charge $300 labor to change the EGR BPT? $300?? I can change that in a couple minutes with my eyes closed while half asleep. WTF??!! It's no wonder that mechanics get a bad rep these days. A lot of them blatantly rip people off.

Yeah the dealer thought I would actually pay that. I just cleaned it and its fine now.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v380/surferfletch/Rickspictures167.jpg
Bet it was an o-ring at the end of one of the 2 coolant pipes under the intake manifold. Makes an awful mess!

Yes that just about sums it up.