does anyone kno where i could read and get pictures on changin the flywheel (haynes manual, or sumthin)

Not too much to it, although what you're referring to is more aptly called a flex plate - only cars with foot clutches have flywheels. You will have to drop the transmission and find some way to keep the crank from rotating, but it's 6 bolts and it's out.

It is basically the same as changing the transmission except that you'll just be pulling it back enough for the flexplate access. Don't attempt it unless you can raise the car up level on jack stands, have a good quality floor jack and some automotive knowledge.

I've done countless "on my back" transmission and clutch jobs, every one is a learning experience.

Bob

i dont kno how to drop the transmission and the six bolts can they be removed with a regular socket set or do u need those extra big sockets pass 9/16 n pass 15 mm........last where can i learn to drop the trans

Well, on the flex plate you have no choice but to use conventional wrenches because of the extremely right space you will be working in. The bolts holding the transmission to the engine block can be removed with a standard 3/8" drive ratcheting socket wrench. Be sure before pulling the transmission back to remove the outer flex plate bolts (3) otherwise you risk pulling out the torque converter which can result in a oily mess of transmission fluid everywhere, not to mention the pain in the @ss of having to pul the torque converter back in while holding the transmssion in place at the same time. With the proper tools, and knowledge a flex plate replacement won't be too bad, but if you're lacking in the jack & jackstand department (or car lift) I'd recommend leaving it to the pros.... or someone more mechanically capable. I sometimes wonder how "pro" some mechanics actually are.

The old SBCs with the two-piece crank would allow the flexplate to be changed without removing the transmission. The torque converter could be unbolted, slid back far enough to allow access to the flange bolts, and allow the flexplate to be lowered through the inspection opening of the transmission. I'm not sure how a one-piece RMS crank with the smaller bolt circle would affect that, and whether your transmission has an inspection cover (some don't in that era, but an '88 should). So long as the bolts are accessible, there's a chance.

just out of curiosity, whats wrong with the flexplate?
if it sounds broken (goes tap-tap-tap when at idle) you might check by just tightening it.

take of the metal shroud.
tighten the bolts (in my 84, there were only three. that might be because i have a v6, i dont know)
replace shroud.

the best method of preventing the engine from turning over i found was to wedge a crowbar into the teeth of the flexplate.
you want to be careful not to mess up the teeth tho.

oh, and one last thing.
please remember to disconnect the ignition wire going to the distributor.
it would be rather un fortunate to accidentally start the engine while you are under there.
i know that it probably wont happen, but it is better to be safe than get whacked in the head with a 3/8" drive long handled socket...

in my 84, there were only three. that might be because i have a v6, i dont know
My '84 has 3 as well, and so does my '88 Van. They both have 350's. My '89 GMC has 6 bolts though. It has the 4 bolt 350 with the TH-400 transmission. Odds are yours will have the 3 bolts as well. You can tell a flex plate is bad if under accelleration you hear a rapid tapping/scraping. Thats because the flex plate is flexing too much and is hitting the inspection pan (shield on the underside of the tranny).

mine was just loose and tapping up against the trans or the motor its self i think.

mine was just loose and tapping up against the trans or the motor its self i think.

If it was loose then you probably heard a knocking sound at startup and sometimes at engine shut off as well. In my pickup years ago when the flywheel went on it it was flexing too much because it started to crack around the center where the 6 bolts go to the crank shaft. I have it hanging on my garage wall above the workbench as sort of a "decoration" so to speak.

If it was loose then you probably heard a knocking sound at startup and sometimes at engine shut off as well. In my pickup years ago when the flywheel went on it it was flexing too much because it started to crack around the center where the 6 bolts go to the crank shaft. I have it hanging on my garage wall above the workbench as sort of a "decoration" so to speak.

I've also replaced more than one flexplate that broke around the crank flange. Usually, this happens if the bolts that attach the transmission to the engine are not properly torqued, thus allowing the transmission to 'wiggle' a little bit - just enough to overstress the flexplate. In that instance, I'd also replace the torque converter and the front pump bushing.

If it was loose then you probably heard a knocking sound at startup and sometimes at engine shut off as well.
not really.

my noise was dependant on load and rpms.
i heard it at idle only
if i tapped the gas or put the car in gear the noise went away.

i started a thread about it a while ago.
the conclusion i came to was that it was a lifter.

i brought it to my uncle to start on valve work when he remarked that he didnt know what it was offhand, but he had heard that noise before and knew it wasnt a lifter.
we tightened the flexplate and the problem was solved.

I was just going to remark on the 'lifter' sound. I know the sound well, I had a 1972 Impala with loose converter bolts, and this was exactly the sound except from under the car. Same thing, it did it at idle, then not so much under load, but under cruising it would.

My truck only did it at startup and shut down. I'd also get a single knock whenever the engine speed would change abruptly (letting off while cruising, or giving it gas while coasting).