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Need help w/ 91 Camry PLEASE!


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jjastew
08-10-2007, 02:54 PM
I've been reading the different threads pertaining to the problem I am having, and have suggested all the things to my mechanic. I am on my 3rd mechanic now, and we can't seem to find the problem. This is a 1991 Camry, 4 cyl engine if that helps.

The car will start right up, no problems. After I've driven the car 5 miles or so, it will start to sputter and eventually die. It seems to happen around 55 mph. I can push the gas pedal all the way to the floor, and it won't do anything for about 10 seconds or so, then it will take off. When the car does die, it will turn over, but not start unless I push the gas pedal all the way to the floor. Then after giving it a little gas, it will run once again.

Here is what we have done so far:
1. EGR valve has been cleaned - hoses to and from it have been cleaned as well.
2. Spark plugs, distributor cap & wires are all new.
3. New Radiator (replaced just before I got car 3 months ago)
4. New Thermostat
5. New Battery
6. New Alternator (this was a part also replaced just before I bought it. However, this alternator had small bits of plastic all inside the casing and it was draining my battery. So I had to replace it as well)
6. New Throttle Position Sensor.
7. New Air & Fuel Filters
8. New struts on front and back ( I know this does not pertain to my problem but while I'm at it.)

Fuel pump is running because my mechanic can hear it. It's hard to find someone around where i live that wants to even touch a "foreign" car. I am hoping it isn't something major, cause it's cost me quit a bit so far. Being a single mom, I really need to figure out why it keeps dying on me. Sometimes it smells a little gassy after it's died as well.

Any help you can give me is very much appreciated. I've search the FAQ's & other threads and done most of what was already suggested. Thank you.

Mike Gerber
08-10-2007, 03:50 PM
Have your mechanic test the coil inside the distributor. They are a known problem area in generation 2 Camrys, although they act up more in wet/damp weather, they can also fail when they get hot. Also have him check the O2 sensor. The sensor is out of the loop until the car warms up, at which point a defective O2 sensor can cause problems. I had this happen on an 86 Camry.

Mike

jjastew
08-10-2007, 08:07 PM
Thank you for your response. I should mention that the check engine light does come on intermitantly, and when checked last week, it threw me 2 codes.
1st code was 12 - which says "PRM Signal. No "NE" or "G" signal to ECU w/in 2 seconds after engine has been cranked." Trouble area: Distributor circuit, distributor, starter signal circuit, & ECU.

2nd code was 22 - which says "Water temp. Sensor Signal. Open or short circuit in water temp. sorsor signal (THA)" Trouble area: Water temp. sensor circuit, water temp. sensor & ECU.

I think the car seems feel like it runs awful hot. No lights have ever come on to indicate it's overheating, however, when I turn the car off after even only running it for maybe 15 minutes, it remains hot to the touch for over an hour. I've noticed also when I got to raise my hood, the bar that holds it up is VERY hot to the touch. Right before my codes were read, I had checked the overflow where the antifreeze goes, and it was almost empty. Since then though, I haven't had any drop in the fluid. Course, I've only drove it a day or two at most since it's been in the shop what seems like forever.

I'm going to try to make it to the nearest Auto-Zone so they can read it with their machine as we just read it with a paperclip and counting the blinks. Hopefully they will know something.....

Does this change anything on what you may think is wrong with it? Thank you again.

RIP
08-11-2007, 12:16 AM
As Mike Gerber said, the coil and O2 sensors has been known to generate many a headache. If that doesn't fix it, I would put a fuel pressure gauge on it as soon as it stalls or if it's got a test port on the fuel rail, push the plunger and see if fuel dribbles or squirts. If it dribbles (with the key on) look towards the pump. Has the mechanic heard the pump just after it stalls?

EGADS - I missed the codes. Get those fixed first. The factory manual for your car is at the top of the forum in the "Factory Service Manuals" thread.

Your car uses the OBDI fault detection system. Most cars built since 95/96 use the OBDII system. Don't believe Autozone can read it. Check.

Mike Gerber
08-11-2007, 01:27 PM
RIP is correct, Autozone will only be able to read the codes on OBD2 cars. That is, all cars starting with the 1996 model year and some 94-95 Camrys with the V6 engine. Your 91 is OBD1.

The heat you are feeling, including the hot hood support rod, seems normal if the temperature gage on the dash is staying somewhere around the middle of it's range. I would still top off the coolant in the reservoir with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water, and then watch the level for a while. If it begins to drop significantly, take it in to your mechanic to have the cooling system pressure tested.

With the codes that you have mentioned, I would again suggest having your mechanic test the coil or even just replace it. The aftermarket part cost is around $50 for a new coil. The mechanic would probably charge about 1/2 of time for the labor.

Mike

nightmare84
08-13-2007, 12:53 AM
I hate to say this but it might be the computer going because a friend of mine had a 92 camry with the 5sfe and his was doing something close to that and his computer and his map sensor was bad. Hope that helps.

jjastew
08-21-2007, 04:41 PM
Thanks again for all the advice. Turns out there was a big crack in the air intake boot - got that replaced & it won't die while running now.

BUT, I still am having problems starting it - sometimes a cold start, sometimes after it's warmed up. Somewhere there is getting too much gas & it's flooding. I can usually hold the gas pedal to the floor to get it to start, but then a puff of smoke comes out of the tailpipe for a few seconds.

I'm waiting on an o2 sensor and a coolant temp sensor. I can't find just the coil for my distributor around here, so I am looking at maybe just buying the whole distributor. My next attempt I guess will be to check the fuel injectors? I am about ready to just give up. It still will not do this for my mechanic - starts just fine for him. I think my car just hates me. :)

But thanks again to all. You guys are great!!

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