1999 Ford Windstar Broken Power Sliding Door Actuator (Motor)
tomt62
08-03-2007, 08:50 PM
Just picked up our Windstar from the dealer. Our cable snapped on the driver's side power sliding door.
Sadly the cost was estimated at $1000 to fix.
The cables and motor are one piece, and that alone is almost $500 they said.
They said the door has to come off, along with some carpet and the
inside panel. I figured about the inside, but take the door off ... really?
Has anybody repaired this, and could offer some advice?
I'll tackle it if I think I can do, but I don't want to get in over my head.
Thank you.
** Update **
Well it's Saturday, and I decided to take the side panel off. Removed the rear seat. It might help to have a big Torx to remove
the upper seat belt brackets, but I was able to slide the panel out without removing the upper panels. (Hope I can get it back in.)
There's some heater duct you have to move out of the way to get at the bottom screw on the motor. (3) Screws hold the motor in, (3) Screws hold the front cable holder, and (2) screws hold the rear cable holder. Unhook the two wires from the motor, and the whole thing comes out.
Off to the dealer on Monday to order the part. There's no way the door should have to come off.
I should just be able to slip the new motor in, and hook up the ends of the cable to the door, and maybe adjust the tension.
FINGERS CROSSED.
Sadly the cost was estimated at $1000 to fix.
The cables and motor are one piece, and that alone is almost $500 they said.
They said the door has to come off, along with some carpet and the
inside panel. I figured about the inside, but take the door off ... really?
Has anybody repaired this, and could offer some advice?
I'll tackle it if I think I can do, but I don't want to get in over my head.
Thank you.
** Update **
Well it's Saturday, and I decided to take the side panel off. Removed the rear seat. It might help to have a big Torx to remove
the upper seat belt brackets, but I was able to slide the panel out without removing the upper panels. (Hope I can get it back in.)
There's some heater duct you have to move out of the way to get at the bottom screw on the motor. (3) Screws hold the motor in, (3) Screws hold the front cable holder, and (2) screws hold the rear cable holder. Unhook the two wires from the motor, and the whole thing comes out.
Off to the dealer on Monday to order the part. There's no way the door should have to come off.
I should just be able to slip the new motor in, and hook up the ends of the cable to the door, and maybe adjust the tension.
FINGERS CROSSED.
McDiesel
11-07-2008, 01:11 PM
Hey Tom
Just wanted to follow up to see what the outcome was? I feel sure others wil have similar problems and your experience may be helpful.
McD
Just wanted to follow up to see what the outcome was? I feel sure others wil have similar problems and your experience may be helpful.
McD
philkb
11-07-2008, 06:07 PM
I got one for the passenger side door from an out-of-town salvage yard that shipped to the local yard near me, but it was still not cheap. It was 250.00 from a used van, but it did go in quite easily. I did make some adjustments to the door which made it close easier so hopefully the "new" closer assembly will last awhile.
BoogiesAdda
11-09-2008, 06:41 PM
I have done both doors :crying: No the door does not have to come off. It makes it easier and gives the dealer more money that is why they say it. Like a previous reply I bought mine used for $225 each i find the power sliders to be more of a pain in the A** than anything else. From the not closing properly to burnt out motors, to doors not opening next time I will slide them my damn self.:lol2:
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