crank pulley help

hi, i'm in need of instructions on how to remove crank pulley, do you need a tool or is there a trick without the tool? this is for a 97 civic. also, when engine is at tdc, when lining up timing belt on engine, should it be lined up with white mark or red mark? i've heard white mark is tdc and red is 16btdc so should be white mark. but my engine has it lined up with red mark, so i am trying to fix that. any help appreciated. thanks alot

take off all the belts. put the socket on the crank pulley bolt. stick a screw driver in the flywheel to hold the engine in place so you can take off the center bolt. you will need to take the flywheel cover off to get to the flywheel.

well to find tdc, put the cam on tdc then the crank will also be on tdc, there you go. also you can set tdc from the rotor, when the rotor gets to the #1 cylinder spot on the rotor cap then its at tdc

An alternative method for holding the crank stationary while removing the crank nose bolt is to use a "special" tool. Honda sells one for about $150. You can use a 50mm (2") hex nut ($1.25) and a big wrench ($30) for the same job (that's what I do). The tool (whichever you choose) fits in the hexagonal recess on the crank pulley.

The above methods are good for finding crank TDC if the timing belt is still in place.

If the timing belt is not in place, or might not be phased properly, try the following:
Set the cam position by turning it until the two marks on the cam sprocket are horizontal, and the word "up" appears at the top of the sprocket.
Set the crankshaft position by turning the crank until the mark on the timing belt drive sprocket (not the big crank pulley that you removed first) lines up with the pointer. The pointer is located at approximately one o'clock when you're looking at the front of the crank.

If you want to borrow a nut + wrench, I'll loan them to you (you pay shipping both ways + $35 deposit, I'll return the deposit when I get my nut+wrench back).

hi, i would borrow the tools but i'm doing my timing today. i found out the instructions to install an ur crank pulley, it says to put engine in fifth gear and step on brake to keep engine from rotating.

Well that works fine if you have a manual transmission. I didn't realize that's what you had.

Here's a funny thing for you to consider - the torque you apply at the crank nose while removing that bolt will likely be the largest steady torque the crankshaft has ever experienced.

I didn't know about the 5th gear & brake thing...that's pretty cool. What we did on my old GSR was remove the starter (exposes the flywheel), jammed a metal rod in there to hold flywheel stationary. then we made the world's larges extended ratchet & breaker bar. We extended it to be past the fender/wheel well, then the handle was extended literally 4-5 feet. Then we had my friends chunky dad jump up and down......a couple HUGE jumps finally popped that bad boy. I swear it echoed inside my engine....my friend's dad thought he broke something lol :p

I have a powerful air gun and a snap-on socket. I just put it up there and pulled the trigger and it took that bolt off so fast it didn't even spin the crank. I also have the UR Race Crank Pulley

I sure hope you didn't put it back on that way!