Not your average Fuse#10 problem

Ok, so I've read all the posts after my 2000 blew fuse #10 last week. I've removed each of the following one by one and still blow the fuse. I even tried a 15A fuse with these disconnected and that blew too. Next ideas?
1. Brake pressure switch - OK
2. Rear window defogger relay - OK
3. Cruise speed control servo - OK
4. A/C low pressure cycle switch - OK

Getting at the ABS box will require the jack stands and some time. But this car has had cranky sliding doors forever. Anyone know where those relays are? And the blend door sounds like a lot of fun - I'd rather not go digging in the dash just yet. My suspicion is the ABS box but I sure hope not - those are very very expensive!
Just the next thing to go wrong on this p.o.s. - already done are tranny (#3 at 60K mi), wheel bearing, sway bar bushings, rear brakes (complete), cylinder #1 exhaust valve spring . . .
Thanks for any help

Ok, so I've read all the posts after my 2000 blew fuse #10 last week. I've removed each of the following one by one and still blow the fuse. I even tried a 15A fuse with these disconnected and that blew too. Next ideas?
1. Brake pressure switch - OK
2. Rear window defogger relay - OK
3. Cruise speed control servo - OK
4. A/C low pressure cycle switch - OK

Getting at the ABS box will require the jack stands and some time. But this car has had cranky sliding doors forever. Anyone know where those relays are? And the blend door sounds like a lot of fun - I'd rather not go digging in the dash just yet. My suspicion is the ABS box but I sure hope not - those are very very expensive!
Just the next thing to go wrong on this p.o.s. - already done are tranny (#3 at 60K mi), wheel bearing, sway bar bushings, rear brakes (complete), cylinder #1 exhaust valve spring . . .
Thanks for any help Take a look on the following: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=237702&highlight=cruise+control.
One member has mentionned that he has CLEANED the brake pressure switch.
If you have just disconnected the switch maybe some brake fluid is contaminated the connector causing the #10 fuse problem.

I did see that thread (I checked all 100 that come up in a fuse #10 search) but my connectors all look like the day they were made! I didn't try cleaning it, but I could. I'm still blowing fuses with all three connectors (speed servo, brake and a/c) disconnected. HEck, they won't work with a blown fuse anyway...
Gawd I don't want to pull the dash...

poppi

popbitb,

I know you've read everything, but do yourself a favor and change the Brake Pressure Switch if it hasn't been changed to the upgraded one. They can leak internally so you won't see it. Clean the electrical connector with electrical cleaner spray as well before connecting the new switch. Then see if the number 10 fuse holds. It easy and cheap $ 25 bucks and 15 minutes.

AvalonJohn

You're right, its certainly easy enough to try - I'll clean the downstream connector tonight. It can't be the switch side at this point as that's disconnected. If that works then $25 is very easy on the pocket. Heck, the accelerator cable is frayed at the engine end and that's $55-65 depending on date of manufacture with 2000 Windstars. If I'm going up to the dealer for one, what's another part?
These are easy repairs and I'm better than novice with car repairs. I've owned a few Saabs, and to do so means you have to be. (Current is a nice '93 900 turbo convertible with only 102K mi)
Thanks guys!
poppi

Ok, so I checked all of the 'under hood' connectors and they look AND test fine (>1MOhm resistance). I also checked the fuse socket for an open short and nada. While I was down there I saw the blend door actuator (another post said white box with three screws) and the electric connector was conveniently on the driver's side so...I disconnected it.
New fuse and 10 minutes (5 miles) around town haven't blown it yet. But the real test is tomorrow when the wife drives it. I've been here before (unable to blow the fuse) and she can kill it within one block.
But let's hope because this doesn't look too bad if that's what it is.
Keep listening...
poppi

-Baker- ** Watching this thread....keep us posted.

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1345056651011220610YZiJnK

in the above picture I purchased this replacement part and I first disconnected the brake pressure switch connector to troubleshoot the problem and all worked well without blowing fuse.

Long story short I am looking forward to replacing the part soon. I won't be able to use the whole replacement harness due to the old connector being slightly burned...lol I'll have to do some wire splicing and button it up to to make it all work.

BTW it cost me a whole 25.21!!! lol

installed and works great....btw not a single drop of brake fluid came out when I unscrewed the old switch.

FYI for those who might cut the new connector off like I did green goes with green and black with red.