tranny return line???

How do I disconnect the tranny line, I removed the metal clip, and see the plastic insert with ears..... I squeeze the ears in with pliers and can't get the line to pull out... any help is appreciated

1999 3.8
I'm starting with the fluid, tranny problems today:frown:

To be honest, I have not removed one.
The factory instructions list the method that you are using, but I have undone the return line where the rubber hose connects to the metal one from the Transmission.
I am more confident in getting it back together without leakage, or popping back out....and I like the location of the hose connected line better, easier to get at......easier to slide a oversize clear hose over and direct into a catch container.

thanks for the reply wiswind, I finally got it after hours of fighting, so filter and fluid will be changed in the morning,

The main problem is the trans would not come out of second today, what other controls are on the tranny I could check out?..... or do a search on.

I'm not sure what its called is it a speed sensor???
thanks again
jeff

The tool to disconnect ford lines at the transmission:)

http://www.atec-trans-tool.com/product-detail.asp?gid=7&cid=5&sid=31&sku=T%2D1890

Not coming out of 2nd gear is a very common symptom of a problem with the Transmission Range Sensor (TRS) also known as Neutral Safety Switch.

Not going above 2nd gear is "limp" mode......as if the TRS function is not working, the PCM does not know what gear you have selected.

The Neutral Safety Switch is mounted on top of the transmission....under the flex hose that goes from the air filter to the throttle body.
One test for this that I have seen listed here is to locate the electrical connection...and verify that you can unplug it.
WITH IT PLUGGED IN, start the engine (the neutral safety part of this unit will prevent the engine from starting when it is not plugged in).
With the engine at idle.....and gear select in PARK, unplug the Neutral Safety Switch.

Take the vehicle for a short drive and see if it will shift above 2nd gear.
The O/D lamp will be flashing and you will set a code or so because the Range Sensor cannot be seen by the PCM.
Also, from what other's have posted, the shifts will be harsh.
If the vehicle shifts above 2nd gear, then you need a new Neutral Safety Switch.

If I have missed something......those more experienced please correct it, as I have not personally done this.....just repeating what other's have posted.

Your question about speed sensor:

There are 2 speed sensors......less likely to be causing your problem.

The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) senses how fast the output shafts of the transmission are turning....there is a mechanical part that drives the speedometer....and a electrical part that is driven by the same shaft/gear that sends a signal to the PCM telling it how fast the vehicle is going.
This is a BEAR to change due to the location.....

There is a Turbine Shaft Sensor (TSS) that measures the speed of the shaft that comes out of the torque converter, and tells the PCM how fast the shaft that comes out of the torque converter is turning.
From the RPMs the PCM knows how fast the shaft going into the torque converter is turning, and the TSS will enable the PCM to know just how much "slip" there is in the torque converter.
The TSS is easier to change, but much less mentioned as a item that fails.

In short, look into the Transmission Range Sensor / Neutral safety switch for the not going above 2nd gear issue.

Wiswind, thank you for the info, I found all the info on the trans under your sticky, what a big help.... It turned out to only need the fluid change,

I never changed the fluid on the trans, so I guess at 130,000 miles it was more than time,:banghead: I was lucky to dodge a bullet on this one, a big bullet
new filter and fluid $ 75. bucks and a little free time:rolleyes:

The tool to disconnect ford lines at the transmission:)

http://www.atec-trans-tool.com/product-detail.asp?gid=7&cid=5&sid=31&sku=T%2D1890

These push lock fittings are a PITA once they get some years and miles on them. I also have not messed with a Ford fitting, but have disconnected a few GM ones. On the GM push locks, you have to remove the e-clip, push in, then pull out. I tried a set of NAPA cooler line quick disconnect tools to no avail. That metal one listed above looks better.

Joel