power windows / power lock issues-- 90 buick lesabre custom

Greetings-- I am a newbie to the forums. I have a 1990 Buick LeSabre Custom. I inherited it from my grandmother, who had it stolen from her twice (and recovered) before she gave it to me and my wife.

Since it was stolen, the power locks and power windows have been working improperly. The power locks, if you replace the fuse (20 amp), will work fine until you open the drivers side door, and then it blows the fuse.

As for the power windows, all but one window (the rear passenger) will go down fine, but will take forever to go back up, i.e. a little bit at a time. The rear passenger side window will not go up or down at all.

My questions are:

1) What else can I try on the powerlocks, fuse/ relay-wise before I start monkeying with (or pay a mechanic) the electrical system?

2) For the power windows -- should i start with the 30A-12V (the big silver one in the fuse box on steering wheel side) fuse to see if that is the culprit? Once I have changed that out, and it doesnt make any difference, what is my next step? Is this a fuse i can get at a local auto parts store? I tried to buy what I thought was the same (30-12V) and it doesn't fit. I am assuming I have to special order? Thanks in advance for any advice!

Welcome to the forum.

Fuse blowing is somewhat hard to find,
however, a good help is to wire up a light bulb in the circuit instead of the fuse. When the short occurs the light lights and indicates the short..:thumbsup:
This may help as you search for the short and save on fuses from the Auto Parts Store. You could bring one of the blown good size fuse to the store to help identify it. The big silver fuses are commonly just breakers that pop when hot and later reset. My diagram labels the window fuse as a Circuit Breaker.

Moreoften forum members have found short and open circuit problems just inside the door hinge area of the door on the power and control cables. Gaining access to look at these wires is by pulling on them gently, carefully drawing some of their length out of the door as they will allow without further damage. If this area looks OK you may need to look inside the door or under the switch control panel.

All power to the windows goes into that door to allow control of all the windows from the driver.

The book labels it as a PINK or RED wire into the door for the window switches source of power on the schematic and is the suspeced shorted wire.

Lubricating the rails for the windows is usually a big help for slowness. With the window down, I spray a silicone lubricant on my finger and work it into the guide rail. If this is not much help perhaps the mechanics inside the door need greasing or replacement.

Good Luck

You probably do have a short if just the action of moving the door causes it. But, I had a door lock fuse blowing due to the lock actuator itself-- it blew sometimes when I used the remote to unlock the doors

Your fuses are likely doing their jobs. They do not normally fail without an overload.

As previously advised, lubricating the window channels is a good idea. There may also wear or distortion of the window regulator arms or guides, and they may require adjustment.

The door lock motor (solenoid) or its wiring are likely shorted or failing. That includes the wiring to between the door and body.

Thanks for all the wonderful advice everyone! The fuses seem fine based on my observations. if the issue is indeed wiring or the actual motor inside-- any idea what this might cost to fix? Is this something a novice like me could repair/ replace? I got inside the door and tried to push up the window from inside and it is locked tight (no give whatsever). I dont see any wires that appear frayed and no water damage. Can I override the motor, just to get the window in the up position until i get it fixed?

Thanks