oiled head

i am not getting any oil on my head. I finally finished my 6 bolt swap. I started the motor after priming the engine. Oil doesnt make it from the pump to the head. I purchased all the 6 bolt parts to make it work in my 97 gsx. the oil is filling the filter and front case, its just not making it to the head oil ports. it has plenty of oil. what would the likely scenerios be?

guess it is too late for me to put this in the problem diagnosis thread...

It really sounds like the pump isn't working to it's full capacity. Sounds like it's not pumping it through. Is it new?

the head and block are fully rebuilt, the front case and pump are supposed to be new, but they are probably rebuilt as well. everything on this motor has 0 miles on it. I put an impact wrench on the pulley also, spun it to about 500 rpm, still doesn't flow through. both balance shafts were removed though, but that shouldn't make a difference.

Did you make sure the head gasket had the correct oil flow ports in it before installing it? I'm sure you did, but you never know.

i hope it was installed correctly, a business built it for me, but with all the issues I have been having, i wouldnt doubt it. the oil drops down from the head into the pan. im going to try and blow air through the holes to make sure it is passing through. anyone have any tips or advice for fixing the pump?

Replace? Best I can think of.

Did you get in touch with the shop that built it?

Remember though, you need to test the ports from which the oil pump send oil up to the head.

working on it, i will post updates on it. its just here in florida, it rains every day. so i just have to wait til its dry so it doesnt get water all in it and rusts

alright, so i get a day off when its not raining. I pulled the front case off, also took the oil pump out. It appears the clearance is within specs. I took an air compressor to force air through the system, in the direction it is supposed to go.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a235/beetle720/frontcase.jpg

I pumped 140psi ofair in the hole with the arrow and blocked that hole with an X. From what I found, air is flowing through to the pistons, and I can feel air all around here.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a235/beetle720/pistons.jpg

As you can see though, the head is still dry, except for the original oil fill that remains. I cannot feel any air flowing, nor does any air make it here.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a235/beetle720/camshaft.jpg

Anyone have any idea how the oil cant reach the head or how 140psi air doesnt either? Would this have anything to do with the head gasket and is there a possibility of putting it on backwards? Where are the holes located that the oil is supposed to be flowing through in the head?

Did you use the same lifters or different ones? If you got new ones then they need to be primed before you can use them... In case that step got skipped... If they aren't new, then I would say your problem lies more so in the oil pump/front case...

every moving part is new; new lifters, springs, pistons, and oil pump. I cant think of any other way to prime. how else would you do it? the block appears to be getting plenty of oil.

You submerge the lifters in... I believe we used kerosene? And you have to use a paperclip and stick it in the end of them and then pump them up while submerged and holding the paperclip in until all the air is out of them. If not, when you start the car up then they will go flat and fail to support oil to your cams and such... I'm pretty sure it was kerosene we used.

Take your head off and look at the head gasket like I said earlier. They could have put the wrong gasket on with different oil ports. you need to see if the air is making it through the gasket.

after taking off the cams, I can tell some oil had flowed through to soak the braces. apparently I didnt prime them good enough with 5w-30 oil. took out the lifters again, I can still compress easily with my hand. I'll try the kerosene. also I did some research on the head gasket, before I venture on an 8 hour job with it, I don't see how the wrong one could have been put on, and from the design, it cannot be put on backwards or upside down. unless one had been cut out or customized. right now I am working on putting the oil pan back on so more air could be forced to the top. sucks working on a car when you dont have a garage though, living in florida, it rains every other day in the summer, if it doesnt rain, its 99 outside.

Yeah, your lifters sound like the best option right now. I wouldn't want to take the head gasket off either. The reason I said to check the gasket is because it can be confused with a non-turbo 4g63 gasket.

The reason I said to check the gasket is because it can be confused with a non-turbo 4g63 gasket.
Is there really a difference? The block/head castings should be the same...

Is there really a difference? The block/head castings should be the same...I believe there are minor differences in oil passages and water ways because of the different cooling and oil needs caused by the turbo.

i got oil pressure now, which i had, but now there is pressure in the head. my pressure gauge wasn't working because of a bad wire. i replaced the wire, now it is showing on idle, just below the gauge inside, which is correct. i had to take the lifters out again, this time i primed them with a smaller needle. apparently the paper clip i used didnt get enough air out. the clicking noise is gone, and after letting it idle for 2 minutes, oil finally started spraying around inside the valve cover. my problems arent over yet. there is some oil seeping out of the exhaust cam gear, where the very last bracket is. anyone know what I can use to seal it better? it is definately coming out of the bracket, not the cover gasket. the block and head I have is from a 91 gs. would a 2g intake make it run rough? i didnt think so since the openings match perfectly, but i am not a professional. i am currently checking the timing again though. i just want to eliminate possibilities so i am not wasting my time.

I'm really confused of where your talkin about... Where is the oil leaking from? What bracket?

1 of the 6 brackets or caps that hold the camshaft in place. oil is leaking around the last one, at the end where the cam gear bolts to

Ok, I just went out and looked at my motor and know what your talking about now... You have your little half moon shaped gasket in that gap right? If so and its just leaking around that, then I would go to Mitsubishi and get some of their gasket sealant that they have. Stuff works wonders and will stop any leak. I lined by whole oil pan with the stuff and many other things on the car...

other side, the side with the timing belt

is there supposed to be some type of gasket there besides the seal. i dont remember ever seeing anything else there.

nevermind about the leak. i desided to take the gear off to see if the seal was loose. it was so loose that it was missing. and the fact that I paid a couple thousand for an engine to be professionally built. I am adding that to the list of screw ups that company did. besides the fact it is the wrong motor is the worst screw up though. while i am going out now to find a replacement seal, can anyone give me an educated answer on this?
considering the fact that it is a 91gs motor in a 97gsx that has been modified with apexi air flow and injen intake, no air leaks, timing checked 5 times, 2g exhaust and intake headers, 550cc injectors, i havent changed any settings at all, the engine ran just fine before the swap, all 2g parts, except for the 1g parts required to bolt to the block/head, what could be causing it to idle rough now. it used to idle at 750 and had normally fluctuated from 720-800rpm when warm with the old engine. now it is ranging from 600-900 if i turn the cam angle sensor all the way right, and idles from 1100-1300 all the way to the left. i know this isnt normal, since when i give it gas, it doesnt gain any power but the rpms become steadier. anyone had any swap issues or similar issues before?

m having the same problem, But i havent pulled the pan yet, was hoping i could get some ideas. Ive got a 98 chevy 2500 5.7l had the motor spin bearings, block was trashed.
got a short block put my heads and crap on it. all is good but not getting oil to the heads,and theres clatter going on. valves have been adjusted,might need final adj., AND OIL. my oil pressure is about 50 to 60 when driving and bout 30 @ idle. so i wanna think the pump is working, Right? I used my old lifters. but didnt prime them. But i drove for a while b4 i realized no oil was reaching heads. plenty o time 2 prime them. Im hoping someone knows something that im missing. been working on this thing since the late 80's
(it seems like) and dont want to p[ull the pan if i dont have to. Oh yea dipstick reads in range, so dont want to add more oil. = think thats all. any input would be awsome.

I hope i posted in the right place, cuz i suck @ typin, took forever to type this.


thanx, Dirty