Cruise Control - Replacing Resume/Set/Accel/Coast Switch

I've narrowed my problem to the switch, but I have no idea on where to begin removing it. How do I get the switch off???

On the back side on the steering wheel, there are two plastic caps, when removed, each side has a nut. Do I remove these nuts?:confused: :confused:

Hi
I am going from experience with my '96, and looking at my manual. You will have to pull the driver airbag module. First, disconnect positive AND negative battery terminals. I am told (Ford Mech) that after about 2 min the airbag system is electrically dead. Pop the two plastic covers you saw on the side of the steering column. Remove the two bolts.Carefully lift the airbag module up and disconnect its wiring. My manual says to set the airbag module face down (wiring up) while working elsewhere on the steering column. The cruise switch(s) screws will now be visible and you can change out the switches and put the airbag module back in place.
We are all conditioned to be very afraid of the airbag module, and for good reason. However, I have had mine off and on a few times and it is no big deal. I pull the battery leads and treat the bag like a loaded gun, always assuming it is going to inflate any second.

Be safe

At the risk of being repetitive, if it's a problem with cruise control just not working, are you sure it's not a Brake Pressure Switch issue? (see front page)

I'm in agreement with "lapin_windstar", if your having trouble with the Cruise Control not working, it maybe your brake pressure switch (also known as the crusie control deactivation switch or brake presssure sensor). At any rate, it's the electrical part attached to the bottom of the Master Cylindar.

It is not the pressure switch as I have tested the system with my DMM. It is a bad switch - 100% sure.

The 680 ohm line that provides the set/accel is open. The switch is nearly $100, so I am going to at least call a junk yard to get a price first.

Thanks for the procedure busboy4.

It is not the pressure switch as I have tested the system with my DMM. It is a bad switch - 100% sure.

The 680 ohm line that provides the set/accel is open. The switch is nearly $100, so I am going to at least call a junk yard to get a price first.

Thanks for the procedure busboy4.

Rockauto has your switches for $52.17. Look under electrical/switches and relays.

Thanks - that saves me about $35! I just ordered from RockAuto.